A view of Úterý from its main square. All photos by the author.
Tucked away in the gentle hills of western Bohemia, the town of Úterý (which translates to Tuesday in Czech) is one of those places that seems to have slipped through the cracks of time—in the best way possible.
A Snapshot of Úterý
With a population of just a few hundred, Úterý is small, but its quiet streets, medieval charm, and surrounding natural beauty make it a peaceful retreat for those seeking something off the beaten path. This little town lies within the Teplá Highlands in the Plzeň Region, and while it’s not a major tourist destination, that’s precisely its appeal.
The town’s historic core is protected as a municipal historic preservation zone (městská památková zóna), with colorful houses clustered around a central square that feels like a scene from a storybook.
Úterý's main square, with the town hall ("radnice") on the left.
Wander a bit further and you’ll find that Úterý is surrounded by rolling countryside, forests, and walking trails—perfect for a leisurely hike or just clearing your head. It's also not far from the spa town of Mariánské Lázně or the historic city of Plzeň, home of the original Pilsner beer.
The Church of the Nativity of Saint John the Baptist with surrounding countryside.
Though small, Úterý hosts cultural events from time to time, and its peaceful pace offers a rare kind of stillness. It's a wonderful place to disconnect, take deep breaths of fresh country air, and remember that beauty often lives in the quietest corners.
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So, if you're ever winding your way through the Czech Republic and feel like taking a detour, keep an eye out for Úterý. It might not be on every map—but it could be just the stop you didn’t know you needed.
A Market Town with Medieval Origins
Úterý’s Latin name, Novum forum, and German equivalent, Neumarkt, both translate to “new market”—a nod to its founding as a market town on regional trade routes. Apparently the day on which Úterý held markets was Tuesday, which is the source of its current (Czech) name.
Entrance to Úterý from the southeast.
The earliest written mention of Úterý dates back to 1233, when it was gifted to Queen Constance by her son, King Wenceslaus I of Bohemia (also known as Václav I).
Legends speak of German miners founding the town, drawn by rumors of gold in the hills. But while large-scale mining remains unproven, German settlement in this part of Bohemia was common—especially during the 13th and 14th centuries when the Czech crown encouraged German colonization. A German-Czech Town Through Time
Like many towns in the borderlands of Bohemia, Úterý had a significant German-speaking population up through the early 20th century, straddling the line between German and Czech identities. It was part of the Sudetenland – both geographically and politically – during the period leading up to and during World War II, and it experienced the full arc of that region’s historical trauma: Annexation, war, expulsion, and postwar resettlement.
Half-timbered houses in Úterý.
But after World War II, nearly all of Úterý’s German population was expelled, and the town’s demographic makeup changed overnight. Many homes were left empty or fell into disrepair, and the population dropped sharply.
The snapshot below from Wikipedia tells the tale of the precipitous drop off in residents from 1930 to 1950 (presumably a census wasn't done during WWII), and the population has never recovered - currently there are around 430 inhabitants in Úterý. 
Rediscovery and Revival
During the Communist era, Úterý faded into obscurity, its aging buildings neglected. But beginning in the 1990s, the town experienced a modest revival. Artists, holidaymakers, and preservationists were drawn to its charm. Restoration efforts began, including grassroots projects to save historic homes and revive public spaces. But this has been a very slow process.
One of many historic buildings in Úterý in need of repair.
Historic Core and Architectural Layers
Despite its small size, Úterý has been designated a municipal monument zone for good reason. The main square is lined with burghers’ houses that preserve medieval cores—cellars, foundations, and interior structures—even if their facades were rebuilt in Baroque or later styles.
Buildings on Úterý's main square.
A devastating fire in 1694 destroyed much of the town, leading to large-scale reconstruction. Today, many of the buildings around the square—including nine historic houses, a plague column, and a Baroque fountain—date from that period of rebuilding.
House “Na Růžku” in Úterý, which local volunteers are slowly restoring.
But the town retains an abundance of medieval buildings that make it hauntingly unique. One example is the House “Na Růžku,” a medieval corner building now under restoration by local volunteers. Its ongoing renovation symbolizes the growing interest in preserving Úterý’s architectural heritage.
Church of the Nativity of Saint John the Baptist
The architectural centerpiece of Úterý is the Church of the Nativity of Saint John the Baptist, a Baroque masterpiece constructed in the early 1700s. The church is attributed to either Kilian Ignaz Dientzenhofer or his father, Christoph Dientzenhofer, both leading architects of the Bohemian Baroque style.
Church of the Nativity of Saint John the Baptist in Úterý.
Set against a lush hillside, the church’s curves and ornamentation are a striking contrast to the town’s medieval rural simplicity – making it a rewarding stop for architecture lovers and photographers alike.
Church of the Nativity of Saint John the Baptist in Úterý with surrounding countryside.
A Hike to Jansův mlýn Along Úterský Potok
The lush hills surrounding Úterý make it a great place to enjoy nature as well, and you can start a lovely walk that will take you along the Úterský Potok (Úterý Stream) right in the heart of Úterý, on the main square. From here, follow the green-marked tourist trail that leads gently downhill, away from the village and toward the whispering banks of the Úterský Potok.
Medieval buildings on the main square in Úterý.
As you leave the town behind, the trail becomes a soft dirt path, occasionally crossing narrow bridges or quiet rural roads. You'll soon find yourself walking alongside the stream, which flows calmly over mossy stones, shaded by alder and willow trees. The air here is cooler, the rustling leaves and birdsong blending with the sound of running water.
A pasture near the start of the Úterský Potok (Úterý Stream).
The landscape opens up into a mix of open pastures and low wooded hills. On one side, cows graze lazily in meadows; on the other, dense forest rises sharply—classic Bohemian countryside. The trail hugs the stream, meandering gently through the valley. In some places, the path narrows and climbs briefly above the water, offering glimpses down into the winding creek below.
A forested slope leading down to the Úterský Potok (Úterý Stream).
You'll pass old millstones, moss-covered rocks, and even a chapel – subtle hints of the area's long industrial history. In the spring and early summer, the trail bursts with wildflowers; in autumn, the forest turns gold.
After about an hour or so of hiking, the path begins to feel more remote. The forest thickens, and you might spot the occasional deer trail or hear the distant tapping of a woodpecker. Keep an eye out for where the Lomený potok flows into Úterský potok—here, just above the confluence, you'll find the ruins of Jansův mlýn, tucked away in a hidden curve of the valley.
The mill, long abandoned, is now just a shell of stone walls and crumbling foundations. Nature has almost completely reclaimed it: ivy creeps over the stone, and the stream murmurs softly nearby. Across the water stands an old wayside cross, dated 1870, a quiet reminder of those who once lived and worked in this peaceful spot.
A meadow near the Jansův Mlýn (Jansuv Mill).
It's the perfect place to stop, rest, and reflect. Listen to the stream. Let the past settle around you. Then, either head back the way you came—or continue exploring deeper into the valley.
Things to Do in Úterý
To be honest, there's not a lot to do in Úterý—and I don’t mean that as a criticism. In fact, its lack of activity adds to its uniqueness. Ever since I first visited during the pandemic in 2020, I’ve wanted to return.
I counted one restaurant and—new on this second visit—one "café": a room in House 'Na Růžku,' where a local volunteer serves coffee to go from a machine that doesn’t quite match the quality of a Nespresso you might have at home. When you go to the restaurant, the waitress comes to your table and asks "What would you like?" And you will ask to see the menu, to which she'll reply, "We have gulash and schnitzel." That's all. There are also very few people around. It's rare to meet anyone on the street. The town feels almost empty. There are very few cars - even in front of the town hall, normally a hubbub of activity in all Central European towns. And the surrounding densely forested hills add not only beauty but also a deep sense of isolation. The contrast is striking: the number of buildings, though modest, suggests life and activity—but there is very little of either. The quiet, the stillness, the age of the medieval architecture—all of it creates a haunting atmosphere unlike anything I’ve experienced elsewhere. 
An ancient half-timbered house in Úterý.
Here, in the former Sudetenland of what was once Czechoslovakia, you can feel a different kind of historical weight. It’s not just the legacy of war, but of what followed—emptiness, silence, a sense of something removed. After WWII, the German population was expelled, and towns like Úterý became quieter, lonelier places. The war punished everyone in different ways: the Germans for what was done in their name—and for what many actively supported or did themselves—and the Czechs for what they felt they had to do in response. It's a history of loss layered upon loss.
While this is not the same as the horror of the Holocaust—which stands alone in its devastation—it is another echo of the war that still lingers in the town’s silence and spaces. In Úterý, I’ve felt this echo—both of the Holocaust and the lingering isolation—more strongly than anywhere else. And interestingly Úterý never had a Jewish population - it was always too small. And yet the weight of WWII can be felt in the form of isolation. 
A hillside view of Úterý.
This isn't meant to put you off. Quite the opposite. Úterý’s beauty, uniqueness, and quiet charm make it worth experiencing. And when you visit, you’ll feel something entirely your own. But for me, the beauty doesn’t erase the sense of loss and isolation—they sit side by side. That’s what makes Úterý’s beauty haunting, and why it stays with me.
And it’s almost worth the drive just to watch the town and landscape unfold as you descend the winding hillside roads, especially if you’re approaching from the south. At first glance, Úterý seems like a fairytale town, gently nestled into the hills, with the Baroque dome and tower of its church rising prominently from its perch in the center. But after spending time there, the feeling I experienced was very different—quieter, deeper, and haunting in a way that lingers long after you leave. 
Half-timbered houses in Úterý.
So despite—or perhaps because of—all of this, Úterý is worth a visit. Its quiet and small size offer a peaceful setting for historical exploration, nature walks, and a welcome pause between the busier corners of the Czech Republic.
And here are some things you CAN do in Úterý: Stroll Through the Historic Village Center Enjoy the preserved architecture, old stone walls, and painted facades as you wander through the town. The central square feels untouched by time. Take a Walk in Nature Úterý is surrounded by forests, gentle hills, and scenic trails—perfect for hiking, birdwatching, or just enjoying the fresh countryside air. Visit Nearby Attractions · Mariánské Lázně: A famous spa town about 45 minutes away. · Plzeň (Pilsen): Just 35 km southeast, home of the original Pilsner beer and a lively historic center. · Teplá Monastery: A nearby monastery with a vast baroque library and guided tours. 
The "blue house" in Úterý.
Practical Travel Tips
How to Get to Úterý
Úterý is easiest to reach by car. It’s about a 40-minute drive from Plzeň and roughly 90 minutes from Prague. And as I mentioned above, it's almost worth the drive just to see the town unfold before you from the surrounding wooded hills. Public transport options are limited, so plan accordingly. The lack of public transportation means that there aren't many tourists in Úterý, which is another reason the streets are empty which, as I described above, only adds to Úterý’s haunting quality. 
Historic buildings in Úterý.
Where to Stay
Accommodations in Úterý are (very) limited, too (I think there's only one place according to the volunteer selling coffee, actually, and that, too, is new since my 2020 visit!)l But nearby villages offer pensions (guesthouses) and country inns. Staying in Plzeň or Mariánské Lázně and making a day trip is a great alternative. Best Time to Visit Late spring through early autumn is ideal for visiting. The countryside is green and vibrant in spring and summer, while autumn offers beautiful colors and cooler hiking weather. Final Thoughts
Úterý may not have bustling cafes or endless attractions, but its quiet streets hold stories that reach far beyond its borders. It challenges us to remember, to feel, and to see history not just in books but in the spaces we inhabit. For those willing to listen, Úterý offers a haunting beauty—and a chance to experience history in a deeply personal way.
Úterý's main square.
Contact Me
If you'd like more information about Úterý or other day trips from Prague, or if you're interested in one of my Prague tours, please get in touch. And don't forget to checkout my Prague guidebook series to help you plan your stay.
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AuthorI'm an American who's called Prague home for decades—tour guide by day, writer by passion. With several guidebooks to my name, this blog is where I dive into the city’s stories, culture, and hidden corners you won’t find in typical tourist guides. YOUR DONATION HELPS ME KEEP THIS BLOG GOING.
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