Discovering Kolín: A Hidden Gem in the Czech Republic

6/30/2025

Stone building housing a museum in Kolin

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Located just 60 kilometers east of Prague, the town of Kolín is a cultural treasure. With its rich history, striking architecture, and riverside charm, Kolín offers a window into Czech life beyond the tourist trail. Whether you're a history enthusiast or an architecture lover, Kolín is a worth discovering.

A Glimpse into History

Kolín's roots trace back to the 13th century, when the town was founded by King Otakar II (the same king who also founded the “town” of Mala Strana, now a historic area of Prague). [1]

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I had wanted to visit Kolín for years, having passed through its train station countless times on my way to and from Kutná Hora to do tours there. The train from Prague to Kutná Hora always stops at the Kolín station, and it often waits there for connecting trains for several minutes . Depending on where I was seated on these train journeys, I would sometimes get a glimpse out of the window of what looked like magnificent Gothic towers in the distance.

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I was curious about these towers, wondering what they were or were attached to – a church or an old castle – and of course I wanted to see them in person. At one point when planning weekend hiking trips with a Czech friend, she mentioned Kolín in passing and that “Peter Parler built a church there.”

Well, that did it. I immediately knew that those towers were what Parler had built. If you’ve been to Prague or read my books, you know that not only am I a huge Peter Parler fan, but you’ll also know that he was a master architect and stonecutter who put a Gothic stamp on Prague and the Czech lands (and on parts of Germany from where he came) that is still evident today.

The Gothic Church of St. Bartholomew by Peter Parler in Kolin

Despite its being close to Prague, it took me years to get to Kolín. But this April, I finally did. It did not disappoint. And while finally seeing those magnificent Gothic structures up close was the highlight of my trip, I discovered that Kolín’s architecture runs the gamut, from Gothic to Renaissance and Baroque, right through to Art Nouveau and Rondocubism.

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From Gothic Grandeur to Rondocubism

Kolín may be small, but its architecture tells a story as grand as that of any European city. Here’s some of what I saw:

St. John the Baptist Church: A Gothic Treasure

Kolín’s St. John the Baptist Church is a stunning example of Gothic architecture dating back to the year 1300. It features classic Gothic elements like pointed arches, ribbed vaults, and beautiful stained-glass windows. But in the 19th century, it underwent an extensive Baroque reconstruction like so many churches in the Czech lands.

Ceiling fresco in St. John the Baptist Church

Originally built as a Catholic church, St. John has been used by the Orthodox Church since the 1950s. Its interior decoration now reflects that and is decorated with Orthodox icons and an iconostasis. The stunning ceiling frescoes depict scenes from the life of St. John the Baptist. The plain exterior of this small church situated on what’s now a busy four-lane road belies the bright colorful display you encounter when you walk inside.

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Renaissance Elegance in Brick and Plaster

Kolín’s main square is a living gallery of architectural history. It’s lined with beautifully preserved burghers' houses that speak of the town’s vibrant and prosperous past.

The sgraffito-covered Renaissance town hall of Kolin

Dating back to the late 15th through early 17th centuries, many of the main square’s structures showcase classic Renaissance style, with symmetrical facades, balanced window placements and intricate sgraffito decorations — often inspired by mythology or biblical scenes — reflecting the wealth and artistic tastes of Kolín’s prosperous merchants and craftsmen from centuries ago.

Baroque Drama

As with Prague, the Counter-Reformation of the 17th and 18th centuries brought a wave of Baroque flair to Kolín’s main square. The building’s façades became more ornate and expressive, boasting curved and sculpted gables that give them a dynamic feel, while the rich stucco decorations and detailed portals highlight the craftsmanship of the time.

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Church of St. Bartholomew: A Gothic Masterpiece

Without a doubt, however, one of the most impressive things I saw was what drew me to Kolín in the first place — those Gothic towers I could see from the train on those trips to Kutná Hora. They belong to the Church of St. Bartholomew.

This Gothic treasure designed by Peter Parler, the famed architect behind Prague’s St. Vitus Cathedral and Charles Bridge, dominates Kolín’s skyline. Built in the late 14th century, the church reflects Parler’s signature Gothic style — dramatic verticality, ribbed vaulting, and intricate tracery.

Industrialization and Its Architecture

Kolín’s transformation from medieval market town to industrial center began in earnest in the late 19th century, with the arrival of the railway in 1845.

This industrialization gave rise to modern industrial architecture and infrastructure, including the iconic Masaryk Bridge, one of my favorites anywhere.

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Masaryk Bridge: Where Industry Meets Elegance

On my countless train rides to Kutná Hora for tours, this bridge always caught my eye as the train approached the Kolín station. Looking at it you immediately know it’s unique, and it’s also very attractive as a work of architecture. While obviously modern, it also has an older, almost Gothic, look and feel. For years I’d wondered about it and couldn’t quite make out what I was seeing. Was it an old bridge or a new one? Was that a power station nestled under it? Now I finally know the story!

The Masaryk Bridge in Kolin

In addition to being a motor and pedestrian bridge, it also incorporates a lock and a hydroelectric power plant, testaments to early 20th-century engineering that make it unique in the Czech Republic. Modern upgrades mean the bridge’s power plant is still helping to power the town nearly a century after its construction.

Spanning the Elbe River, the Masaryk Bridge unites Kolín’s historic center with its industrial outskirts. Designed by František Roith and Hynek Vrbický in the 1920s, its sculptural arches reflect both strength and grace.

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The Gymnázium: A Modern Monument to Learning

One thing I didn’t expect to find in the heart of Kolín is the striking building that houses the city's Gymnázium (a college prep school). More than just an educational institution, it's a tribute to early 20th-century Czech architecture.

Built between 1923 and 1925, the building project was the result of a 1922 design competition won by architects Jan Mayer and Vilém Kvasnička, both students of the influential Czech modernist architect Jan Kotěra (I need to do a blog post on his work — stay tuned!).

The Kolin Gymnazium

Their design reflects the values of the First Czechoslovak Republic: functionality, clarity, and respect for craftsmanship. A standout feature is the reinforced concrete entrance tower, crowned by four legionary rifles—a patriotic reference to the Czechoslovak Legionnaires who helped secure the country's independence after World War I.

What makes this building especially remarkable is the integration of art into its architecture. The facade features 22 sgraffito panels by artist Ferdinand Rubeš, illustrating themes of commerce, industry, and skilled trades. These artworks not only beautify the structure but also reflect its original educational mission—training students for careers in business. The use of patterned, exposed brick is also unusual in Central European architecture.

Unique Rondocubist Houses by Jindřich Freiwald

When you stroll through Kolín’s neighborhoods, you might notice a group of charming houses with distinctive curved forms and artistic flair—these are the Rondocubist residences designed by renowned Czech architect Jindřich Freiwald in the early 1920s.

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What Is Rondocubism?

Rondo-cubism, or Rondokubismus, which blossomed in Czechoslovakia after World War I as a fresh take on the Cubist movement, is one of my favorite architectural styles. Unlike sharp geometric Cubism, Rondocubism uses rounded shapes—semicircles, ovals, and arches—that feel both modern and deeply connected to Slavic traditions. This uniquely Czech style is more than an architectural style—it was a cultural statement of a young nation finding its identity. It was the result of the Czechs’ desire to come up with an architectural style all their own, one that wasn’t imposed on them from elsewhere, and one that was part of the Czech’s drive for independence from the Austrians which they finally achieved after 400 years in 1918.

Between 1921 and 1923, Freiwald crafted several residential projects in Kolín that exemplify this style’s elegance and innovation.

A Villa Quarter Emerges

Before Freiwald did his Rondo-cubist thing, the prosperity of Kolín's industrialists led to the development of a villa quarter adorned with (mostly) Art Nouveau mansions. This, actually, was the first thing I had noticed about Kolín before I ever visited it, back when I first moved to Prague right after the fall of communism and before I ever would have even imagined I’d one day be giving tours. In those days when I was still in the world of finance, I rented a car from my then-landlord: and old Russian Lada, or “Zhiguli,” as they were known in Czech slang. I drove it to Kutná Hora the first time I went there when a newfound Czech friend suggested we go there one Saturday.

That was a long time ago, and not only have both Kutná Hora and Kolín gone through extensive renovations, but the new highway to Kolín also didn’t exist then, so to get to Kutná Hora, one had to drive through the city of Kolín – and right past lots of what looked like to me had been beautiful villas of the one-time wealthy.

This also made me curious about the town, what its industry was (or had been), who the people who had lived in these houses were – even years before I saw the spires of St. Bartholemew. Driving through Kolín following the signs to Kutná Hora, these villas were the only part of town you saw. So, I was very curious about this area, too. While some have been meticulously restored, others await attention. But a leisurely stroll through this area’s tree-lined streets offers a window into the town's pre-WWI and interwar elegance.

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Kolín Train Station: A Modern Architectural Landmark

In contrast to the town's historic buildings, Kolín's train station stands as a sleek example of late 20th-century modernist design, and I find it incredibly interesting, too. Characterized by its clean lines, expansive glass and steel construction, the station also reminds one of the wealth, style and innovation of interwar Czechoslovakia.

The sleek modernity of the Kolin tran station

As you can see, Kolín’s architecture offers excellent examples of almost everything you can find in the Czech Republic. And a trip to the city just to survey its architecture is well worth it. But I had also always wanted to visit Kolín for another reason: its former Jewish Quarter and its history.

Jerusalem on the Elbe: Kolín’s Once Vibrant Jewish Community

Among Kolín's most fascinating areas is the historic Jewish Quarter. This area speaks to a once-thriving community whose presence shaped the town's social and economic life for centuries . [2]

Jews began to settle in Kolin shortly after its founding, and the earliest written records of Jews in the town were from the early 14th century. At the time of the Thirty Years’ War, Kolin had one of the largest Jewish populations in Bohemia, earning it the name “Jerusalem on the Elbe.”

In the mid-1930s, Kolín was home to roughly 1,200 to 1,300 Jews (the Kolín Jewish community was one of the largest outside Prague before World War II). Their presence was a testament to centuries of deep roots in the town. However, this rich heritage was tragically disrupted by the horrors of the Holocaust. Most of Kolín’s Jewish residents were deported to Nazi concentration camps, where the majority perished.

In the immediate aftermath of the war, only a small fraction—fewer than 100 survivors—returned to Kolín. Many of those who returned eventually emigrated. This dramatic decline reflected a painful loss, not only of lives but also of the community’s longstanding presence in Kolín.

Today, the remnants of Kolín’s Jewish heritage—its synagogue, cemetery, and memorials—stand as important reminders of a once-thriving community.

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Kolín Synagogue: A Testament to Resilience

Tucked away near the town center, the Kolín Synagogue is easy to miss—but impossible to forget once discovered. It stands as one of the oldest and most important synagogues in Bohemia, with roots reaching back to the 17th century.

The Kolin Synagogue

The building’s exterior is modest, but inside, a haunting beauty lingers. The main prayer hall is adorned with faded frescoes and Hebrew inscriptions.

Today, the synagogue is no longer used for religious services but serves as a memorial and cultural space, sometimes hosting exhibitions or concerts. Visiting it offers a quiet, powerful reminder of the past.

Life by the Elbe River

Kolín's relationship with the Elbe (Labe) River remains central to its charm, so a visit here can also give you a break from Prague’s tourist hordes. Tree-lined promenades and walking trails follow the riverbanks, offering scenic spots for picnics, cycling, or walking.

Scene of the Elbe River in Kolin

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Local Culture and Events

Despite its modest size, Kolín apparently has a lively cultural calendar. A major highlight is Kmochův Kolín, a brass music festival held each summer in honor of local composer František Kmoch. The festival fills the town with performers from across Europe.

Stroller parade in Kolin

And I don’t know if this is a regular occurrence, but on my trip we encountered a baby carriage brigade making its way through the town – I kid you not! It consisted of about 50 carriages, most of them adorned with baby dolls inside, and some of the “mothers” even dressed to match the era of their carriages.

Delicious cheesecake can be had in Kolin!

I also discovered several good local cafés in Kolín, which is always one of my favorite things. I found a good dessert, too (of course!).

Getting There and Around

Kolín is easily accessible from Prague by train—about 40 to 50 minutes—making it ideal for a day trip or short stay. Once there, the town is compact and walkable.

Why Kolín Now?

Kolín may not yet feature on top travel lists, but that’s exactly why now is the time to go. It offers the beauty, depth, and authenticity that travelers crave—without the over-tourism of bigger cities. From medieval churches and Jewish heritage to 20th-century bridges and modern industry, Kolín is a place where the layers of history reveal themselves slowly and meaningfully.

Contact Me

If you'd like to visit Kolín or other places in the Czech Republic outside of Prague, contact me for more information. If you're planning a trip to Prague, my Prague guidebooks will help you plan your stay. And, of course, if you're interested in a tour of Prague, get in touch!

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Notes on sources:
1. iajgscemetery.org
2. jguideeurope.org

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