The Kuks Chateau balcony - photo by barmanCZ from Pixabay
A Baroque Treasure in the Czech Countryside
Located in the picturesque Elbe River valley, Kuks, a small village in eastern Bohemia with an unusual name, is home to one of the Czech Republic's most incredible Baroque monuments.
Kuks has been on my list since I first learned of it not long after moving to then-Czechoslovakia. But believe it or not, I finally saw it only this summer. It did not disappoint.
Although many people refer to it as Kuks Chateau or simply “Kuks” (pronounced “kooks,” making the name sound even stranger), the site is actually a vast complex which includes a former (apparently rollicking) spa, a hospital, a pharmacy, a church, gardens, and an amazingly extraordinary collection of sculptures.
Count Špork's Dream
The story of Kuks is inseparable from the vision of its founder and creator, Count František Antonín Špork, one of the most influential noblemen of his time. In the late 17th century, he inherited the estate and recognized the potential of the local mineral springs. Rather than creating a simple health retreat, he set out to build a spa destination that would rival the most prestigious resorts in Europe.
A portrait of Count Spork in Hospital Kuks
It’s important to note that Count Špork had somewhat of a large chip on his shoulder because of his father’s humble origins. Though he was later rewarded by the Habsburgs for his military leadership in the Thirty Years' War with both land and a noble title, both of which his eldest son Antonín inherited. But the Špork’s were never fully accepted as and treated as “full” nobility as some of the older, wealthier noble families were, and the younger Špork never got over it. I think part of his impetus in creating a lavish spa on his land was to impress – and shock – the more “authentic” members of the nobility by shoving his wealth and lavishness in their faces.
Legend has it that wine used to flow from this jug back in the heyday of the Kuks spa
Construction of Špork’s vision began in the late 17th century, and within a few decades Kuks had become a vibrant center of social and cultural life. Aristocrats arrived to enjoy the healing waters, while artists, architects, and musicians gathered under the patronage of Count Špork. The resort hosted theatrical performances, celebrations, concerts, and lavish festivities that apparently included wine flowing from Baroque statues down elaborate chutes transformed this quiet river valley into a lively cultural hub.
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A Masterpiece of the Baroque Era
The party’s now over, but what makes Kuks special today is its artistic legacy. The surviving complex is considered one of the finest examples of Baroque architecture in the Czech Republic.
View of Kuks from the village across a stream - Image by Osaro from Pixabay
Hospital Kuks
Hospital Kuks is a masterpiece of early 18th‑century Baroque architecture. It was designed by Giovanni Battista Alliprandi, one of the many Italian architects and builders who were brought to Prague at the beginning of the Baroque era here to introduce the style, which had originated in Italy. The “hospital” is actually a complex: it served not only as a medical institution but also as a spiritual retreat.
Its northern façade with sculptural terrace on a hill facing the Elbe is simply stunning. Its preserved interiors are truly glorious. Together they make Hospital Kuks one of the most significant Baroque sites in the country. The Church of the Holy Trinity
At the heart of the hospital complex is the Church of the Holy Trinity, a sumptuous Baroque sanctuary completed in 1710. It reflects Špork’s vision of faith expressed with art and elaborate stucco work.
It’s interesting to note that Špork not only placed a portrait of himself inside the church (in a stained-glass window) but he also placed himself above God, in a sense, as his portrait is higher that a depiction of Christ above the altar. Braun’s statues of Virtues and Vices
The true stars of Kuks are the sculptures created by Matyáš Bernard Braun, widely considered to be the greatest Bohemian (Czech) Baroque sculptor who ever lived. The terrace in front of the hospital is lined with Braun’s series of statues representing Virtues and Vices and is what most people think of when they think of Kuks.
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Created between 1717 and 1720, these sculptures greet you as you approach the Hospital from the Elbe, and their beauty and the impression they make is hard to put into words. They are pure Baroque, full of drama and emotion. Although these are copies (the originals, thankfully, are preserved indoors), they still reveal why Braun is so revered.
Braun's original statues inside the lapidarium
The Baroque Pharmacy “At the Pomegranate”
The hospital also houses the Baroque pharmacy U Granátového jablka (“At the Pomegranate”). It’s probably the most well-preserved old pharmacies I’ve ever seen, and sources say it’s one of the oldest. I was taken aback by how much of it is still intact, and like most old pharmacies, it’s visually appealing.
Your senses will be overwhelmed when you walk inside, and the knowledge the guide shared with us about medicines, treatments and beliefs of the period of its origin were simply fascinating. Baroque Gardens
Behind the hospital you’ll find beautiful Baroque gardens with not just flowers and manicured shrubs but also herbs that were grown for use in the pharmacy and hospital. The gardens have been lovingly restored and are incredibly well-maintained. There weren’t many visitors to Kuks on the day I was there, and there were even fewer people in the gardens. So my friends and I had it all to ourselves. That made it an especially peaceful spot to be on a beautiful, sunny summer day.
The gardens make quite a contrast with the dramatic sculptures and monumental size of Hospital Kuks. Perhaps that was the point – Baroque has to be symmetrical and balanced. From Glory to Decline
Like many grand projects throughout history, Kuks experienced a relatively short golden age.
After Count Špork's death in 1738, a flood in 1740 and a lack of funds delivered the Kuks spa a major setback. The once grand resort died out, and the original chateau did not survive. 
However, luckily for us the most important parts of the Kuks complex are still around: The hospital, church, gardens, and sculptures. They’ve all been lovingly restored, and they stand as a testament to the treasures of Bohemian Baroque.
Why Kuks Deserves More Attention
You won’t find Kuks in most Prague guidebooks. They will highlight places like Český Krumlov, and Karlovy Vary, and perhaps rightly so. If you’re going to take the time to make a day (or overnight trip, you want to be able to see more in return for the trouble of getting there, and those places are whole towns’ worth of interesting sites and activities. But they are crowded as a result, and touristy to varying extents. Kuks offers you a quite visit in the Czech countryside.
A view of the village of Kuks from the Hospital balcony
Kuks combines architecture, art, history, and natural beauty to create a unique atmosphere. A hidden gem of Baroque, history and so much more, Kuks will reward your efforts.
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AuthorI'm an American who's called Prague home for decades—tour guide by day, writer by passion. With several guidebooks to my name, this blog is where I dive into the city’s stories, culture, and hidden corners you won’t find in typical tourist guides. YOUR DONATION HELPS ME KEEP THIS BLOG GOING.
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