The Leopold Gate at Vysehrad in Prague. This and all other images by the author.
If you’re coming to Prague, you’ll probably spend most of your time in the historic center, meaning you’ll be touring the areas of Old Town, the Lesser Quarter, the Jewish Quarter and/or Prague Castle, and perhaps a bit of New Town (don’t let the name fool you - New Town is 700 years old!). But you probably won’t get beyond these areas, and that makes sense - not only is there a lot to see in each of them, but they’re also more or less adjacent to each other, situated in a relatively compact area straddling the Vltava (Moldau) River.
Head to Prague’s Suburbs and Beat the Crowds
But if time allows on your trip, you might want to consider a visit to Vysehrad, which is in a suburb just south of the center of Prague.
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I don’t normally do tours of Vyšehrad, but I recently got a request to tour the area, and I realized what a shame it is that I hadn’t even been there in such a long time. Years ago, I was at Vysehrad often, as my first apartment in Prague was in a neighborhood nearby, and I used to play tennis at Vyšehrad every weekend. But in spending a beautiful Saturday afternoon there in preparation for my tour, I was reminded of not only its beauty and rich history, but in a way I was also pleasantly surprised to see that tourists hadn’t discovered it - yet - or most of them probably don’t have time for it after touring the historical areas mentioned above.
 A path in the park at Vysehrad. Image by author.
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While understandable, that’s a real shame, as there is much to see, learn and just enjoy here, including beautiful architecture, gardens filled with greenery, stunning views of the Vltava River and Prague, and just good ol’ peace and quiet.
A High Castle
The name “Vyšehrad” literally means “high castle,” and that’s why you get the stunning views I just mentioned. Sitting atop a bluff on the eastern side of the Vltava river, this former fortress is strongly connected with Czech myths and legends, especially that of Libuse, the founding princess of the Czech Premyslid dynasty.
Libuse is credited with having visionary powers, and one such vision was that of the future city of Prague stretched out before her. Apparently she saw the future city from Vyšehrad.
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Medieval Origins and Romanesque Ruins
While not as old as Prague Castle, which later usurped Vyšehrad’s importance, Vyšehrad is taller. Its foundations are from the first half of the 10th century, whereas Prague Castle’s origins go back to the 9th century. New fortifications were built in the 14th century, so not much remains of the original fortress. And Vyšehrad remained a fortress until the late 19th century when it was converted into a park.
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The oldest surviving structure at Vyšehrad is St. Martin’s Rotunda. Dating to the 11th century, this Romanesque structure is the oldest of Prague’s three rotundas.
Notable Neo-Gothic Architecture
Probably the most striking structure at Vyšehrad - and certainly the most striking at a distance - is the largely Neo-Gothic (Gothic Revival) Saints Peter and Paul Basilica. Conceived by Josef Mocker, the architect responsible for Prague’s Neo-Gothic wave of the late 19th century, this church was constructed on the site of a church of the same name which was founded in the 10th century.
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The Saints Peter and Paul Basilica at Vysehrad. Image by author.
The church’s stunning towers are 58 meters (about 190 feet) tall, and they crown the view of Vyšehrad that you can see from the Charles Bridge and even from Prague Castle. The interior is a particularly good version of a Mocker interior, combining Neo-Gothic and Art Nouveau motifs rendered in bright colors.
Some of the chapels are adorned with paintings from the Baroque period, including some done by Bendl and Skreta, two of the best Bohemian (Czech) painters from the Baroque period. A Scupture Garden
On the way to the basilica (on K Rotunde Street) from the rotunda you’ll pass a garden on your left with lush green grass shaded by huge trees, and at each end you’ll see two large sculptures of Czech mythical figures by the sculptor Josef Vaclav Myslbek. Originally, these sculptures adorned the Palacky Bridge, and the two most important ones are Libuse and Premysl on the western end (the end closest to the river) and Sarka and Ctirad on the opposite (eastern) end.
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Premysl, holding a plow, was Libuse’s husband, and Ctirad is a muscular man who is depicted kneeling next to Sarka. Czechs claim that the practice of women wielding a strong hand at home is thanks to a battle in which Sarka and her army defeated Ctirad and his men. Premysl is the plowman Libuse supposedly selected as her husband when the nation's menfolk decided they didn’t want a female leader. In any case, the statues are beautiful.
The Cemetery at Vysehrad
For a real glimpse of Czech culture and history, take a stroll through the cemetery just to the left of the front of Saints Peter and Paul Basilica. Buried here is a panoply of leading Czech artists, composers, writers, sculptors and politicians, including the composers Bedrich Smetana and Antonin Dvorak.
The Slavin Tomb in the Vysehrad Cemetery. Image by author.
At the eastern end is the Slavin tomb honoring many famous figures, including Dvorak. Smetana’s grave is just opposite the Slavin.
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Like the current iteration of the basilica, the cemetery was established in the late 19th century. Not only are important historical and cultural figures found here, but the cemetery itself is a lovely place.
A Walk Along the Walls
One of the best parts about a visit to Vyšehrad is a walk on top of the soaring walls that surround the park, giving you fabulous views in several directions, the best of these looking south and northwest over the river.
Other impressive parts of Vyšehrad are several of the stunning gates from various centuries that still remain. And, yes, on my reconnaissance tour, I was happy to see that there is still one tennis court left - the one where I used to play every weekend, tucked into the castle walls near the impressive Leopold Gate.
Tennis courts within the walls of Vysehrad. Image by author.
Visit Vysehrad
If time allows on your Prague holiday, consider visiting this lovely off-the-beaten path spot. And if you’re interested in a tour of Vyšehrad or any other of the historic areas of Prague, contact me for more information.
I hope you enjoyed this blog post, and please feel free to share with your friends or on social media. Thanks! 
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AuthorI am an American who has been living in Prague for two decades. After a long career in international finance, I left the business world to pursue other interests. I now work as a writer, mentor and guide to the city. Archives
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