<![CDATA[Exclusive Prague Tours

<![CDATA[Exclusive Prague Tours - Prague Blog]]>Mon, 30 Mar 2026 17:42:33 -0700Weebly<![CDATA[The History of Glassmaking in the Czech Lands]]>Mon, 23 Mar 2026 17:06:35 GMThttps://www.exclusivepraguetours.com/prague-blog/the-history-of-glassmaking-in-the-czech-lands

Czech cut crystal. Photo by AncaPictures and reprinted with permission from Pixabay.com. All other photographs are by the author.

For more than seven centuries, glass has flickered at the heart of life in the Czech lands—born in forest clearings, refined in royal courts, and reborn in modern studios. Its story is not just one of material, but of people: craftsmen, innovators, and families whose skill transformed sand and fire into objects of beauty and prestige.

All photos by the author except where noted.

Medieval Roots: Glass from the Forests

The story begins in the late 13th century, deep in the forests of Bohemia. Here, early glassmakers—often itinerant craftsmen—set up small workshops near abundant supplies of wood and quartz. Wood was essential, not only as fuel but as a source of potash, which gave Bohemian glass its strength and clarity. These early “forest glassworks” produced practical items: window panes for monasteries, drinking vessels, and storage containers. Though humble, these beginnings established a reputation for durability and innovation that would endure for centuries.

A Czech glass vase at the glass museum in Novy Bor

A "milk" glass vase at the glass museum in Novy Bor

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Bohemian Crystal and Rivalry with Venice

By the 16th and 17th centuries, Bohemian glassmakers had achieved something remarkable. While Venetian artisans on Murano perfected delicate, colorful glass, craftsmen in Bohemia developed a harder, clearer material—what would become known as Bohemian crystal. This innovation allowed for deep cutting and intricate engraving, turning glass into a medium for artistic expression.

Names like Caspar Lehmann, a gem engraver at the court of Emperor Rudolf II in Prague around 1600, helped elevate glass engraving into a fine art. Bohemian crystal quickly found favor among European nobility, prized for its brilliance and weight. A quiet rivalry emerged: Venice dazzled with elegance, Bohemia impressed with craftsmanship and clarity.

A glass fish at the Novy Bor glass museum

Expansion and Innovation in the 19th Century

The 19th century brought a golden age. Industrialization transformed small workshops into thriving factories, particularly in northern Bohemia. Regions around Jablonec nad Nisou and the Jizera Mountains became global centers for glass production.

This was the era of specialization. Some workshops focused on cut crystal, others on pressed glass or costume jewelry. Exports spread across Europe, the Americas, and even Asia. Companies established during this time—such as Moser (founded in 1857 in Karlovy Vary)—gained international acclaim for luxury crystal, supplying aristocrats and royal courts.

Art Deco (or "Cubist") glasses at the Jablonec glass museum

The 20th Century: Disruption and Continuity

The 20th century brought upheaval. Two world wars and the nationalization of industry after 1948 reshaped the glass sector. Private firms were absorbed into state enterprises, and many family traditions were interrupted.

Yet Czech glass did not fade. Design schools in places like Prague and Železný Brod nurtured new generations of artists. Under state support, glassmakers experimented boldly, creating sculptural works that gained recognition worldwide. Even in difficult times, creativity endured.

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Czech Glass Today

Since the fall of communism in 1989, Czech glassmaking has experienced a vibrant revival. Independent studios, restored family brands, and contemporary designers now coexist. Traditional techniques—hand-cutting, engraving, and glassblowing—blend with modern design and global influences. Today, Czech glass remains both a living craft and a symbol of cultural identity.

Colorful glass flowers at the Novy Bor glass museum

Notable Glassworks and Brands

Among the many names associated with Czech and Central European glass, a few stand out for their history and influence:

Moser
Founded in 1857 by Ludwig Moser in Karlovy Vary, Moser became synonymous with luxury crystal. Known for its lead-free glass, rich colors, and exceptional engraving, the company supplied glassware to European royalty and remains one of the most prestigious Czech glassmakers today.

Riedel
Although now internationally associated with Austria, the Riedel family’s roots lie in northern Bohemia, where they were deeply involved in glassmaking from the 18th century. The family built a reputation for technical excellence before relocating after World War II. Today, the brand is globally recognized for its innovative, grape-varietal-specific wine glasses, blending tradition with modern design and a strong focus on the sensory experience of drinking.

Desná (Desna)
Desná, located in the Jizera Mountains, was historically a center of glass and jewelry production. Rather than a single globally dominant brand, “Desná” is often associated with a network of regional glassworks and costume jewelry producers that contributed to the area's reputation. The town played a key role in the export-driven glass economy of the 19th and early 20th centuries.

Contact me for discounts at Prague's best crystal and garnet shop!

A Closer Look

A closer look at Riedel
The Riedel story is one of continuity and reinvention. Originating in Bohemia, the family built glassworks that were known for high-quality production and innovation. After being displaced in the mid-20th century, they re-established themselves in Austria.

What makes Riedel distinctive today is its philosophy: that the shape of a glass affects the taste and aroma of wine. This idea, once controversial, is now widely accepted. Their designs are not only functional but also rooted in centuries of craftsmanship inherited from their Bohemian past.

A closer look at Desná
In the 19th century, Desná was part of a dense network of small workshops and factories producing glass beads, costume jewelry, and decorative items.

These products were exported worldwide, helping to establish northern Bohemia as a global leader in affordable yet high-quality decorative glass. Even today, the legacy of Desná lives on in the region’s continuing jewelry and glassmaking traditions.

The Glass Museum in Jablonec

The Museum of Glass and Jewelry in Jablonec nad Nisou offers one of the most comprehensive insights into this rich history. Its collections trace the development of glassmaking from medieval times to the present, with a particular focus on costume jewelry and decorative arts.

Visitors can see everything from delicate engraved goblets to mass-produced beads that once traveled across the globe. The museum not only preserves the past but also highlights contemporary designers, showing how Czech glass continues to evolve.

The glass museum in Jablonec

Travel Tip: Visit Jablonec

For anyone curious about Czech glass, a visit to the Museum of Glass & Jewellery in Jablonec nad Nisou is a must. Housed in a striking Art Nouveau building with a modern crystal-shaped addition, the museum showcases centuries of Bohemian glassmaking alongside the world’s largest collection of glass Christmas ornaments and an extensive display of Jablonec’s famous costume jewellery. Visitors can explore historical masterpieces, contemporary designs, and even a reconstructed 19th‑century glass workshop in the nearby Kristiánov settlement — making it the perfect place to experience the artistry, history, and living tradition of Czech glass firsthand.

Christmas ornaments at the Jablonec glass museum

For Visitors to Prague – Special Offers on Czech Crystal

If you find yourself inspired by this long and fascinating tradition, there’s no better place to experience it firsthand than in Prague itself. As a tour guide, I’m able to offer my clients exclusive discount coupons to Erpet Bohemia Crystal, one of the city’s best-known shops for high-quality Bohemian crystal.

Located right in the historic center, Erpet offers a wide selection of beautifully crafted glassware—from elegant wine glasses and vases to classic Czech crystal pieces that make meaningful souvenirs or gifts. For many visitors, it’s a chance not just to admire Czech glass, but to take a piece of this centuries-old tradition home with them—at a special price. Feel free to contact me directly if you’d like to receive a discount coupon for your visit.

Contact me for discounts at Prague's best crystal and garnet shop!

From Fire to Forever: The Enduring Art of Czech Glass

From forest furnaces to museum showcases, the story of Czech glass is one of transformation—of raw materials into art, and tradition into innovation. It is a story still being written, shaped by fire, skill, and imagination.

Get in touch!

If you're planning a trip to Prague, please contact me about my private guided tours, Czech crystal and garnets, and more! I also offer a Pre-trip planning under my Concierge Services. And you can schedule a Pre-Trip Planning Session Call with me, as well!

Sources:

Czech glassmaking: a centuries-old tradition
Czech Tourism - Glassmaking
Bohemian Crystal: How It Became A Symbol of Excellence
The Glassworks of Bohemia
The History of Glass in Central Europe
Museum of Glass & Jewellery
Moser Crystal: The Legacy of Czech Luxury Glass
Moser Official Website
Riedel Glass: From Bohemia to the World
Riedel Official Website
The Glassmaking Tradition of Desná
Jablonec nad Nisou - Glassmaking Heritage
The Rebirth of Czech Glass after 1989
Czech Glass Today
Museum of Glass & Jewellery in Jablonec nad Nisou
Museum of Glass & Jewellery

]]><![CDATA[A Small City Called Silver]]>Fri, 31 Oct 2025 09:19:13 GMThttps://www.exclusivepraguetours.com/prague-blog/a-small-city-called-silver

A view of Stribro over the Mze River.

Tucked into the gentle hills of Western Bohemia, Stříbro--whose name literally means silver—is a quietly captivating town whose history glints with the legacy of medieval mining, Renaissance architecture and serene riverside trails. In a country known for grand tourist hubs, Stříbro feels like a hidden chapter — perfect for travelers who like history served with a side of peaceful discovery.

Another Beauty That Drew Me In

Stříbro is another one of those towns that struck me the first time I saw it. From its graceful Masaryk Square and Renaissance town hall to the storybook stone bridge that seems to step out of another century, Stříbro is a quiet surprise surrounded by green slopes and the winding Mže River.

In a recent blog post, I wrote about the town called “Tuesday” (Úterý) and I talked about how I was immediately struck by its specialness that seemed immediately apparent to me despite its small size the first time I rode into it. For me, the city called Silver struck me the same way the first time I visited it back in 2020, which was on the same trip during which I visited Úterý for the first time, as well. Ever since that “pandemic trip,” one of many within the Czech Republic when I couldn’t leave the country, I had always wanted to return to Stříbro, just as I had wanted to return to Úterý. This past summer I finally did.

The stone bridge and bridge tower in Stribro with the town visible in the bacground.

On that 2020 trip through Western Bohemia, we passed by Stříbro many times in the car to get to wherever that day’s destination was, then back though it in the evening to get back to our hotel, and even from the main road on which we traveled that only grazed the historical center, I could tell that Stříbro was a place I wanted to visit.

And we finally did – on the last day of that trip. Stříbro did not disappoint – on the contrary: it more than lived up to what I imagined from those trips in the car. Stříbro begins to delight almost immediately as you cross over the Mže River either on foot across the city’s famous stone bridge and under its remaining defense tower, or by car up the winding Plzeňská Street with the town, together with the tower of All Saints Church, rising above you and the water.

The tower of All Saints Church in Stribro.

Either by car or by foot, all roads seem to lead to one place in Stribro: Masaryk Square (Masarykovo Náměstí), a huge expanse ringed with architecturally beautiful and lovingly restored buildings, with its impressive town hall dominating the whole scene. It’s like walking into a beautifully decorated concert hall or ballroom, and yet you’re in the open air in a small town.

In addition to the square and its architecture, a walk back down the hill through one of the old town gates leads you to remnants of the town’s historical defense walls and towers and a lovely path along them with greenery on the other side. Having the chance to see historical town walls is not a common thing – most of the architectural sites in the Czech Republic are surviving buildings in historical city centers, with the town walls long gone and development on the “other” side of where the walls used to be.

An old town gate in Stribro.

Stribro not only has its walls, but the “boom and bust” nature of its history (as well as its perch on a tall hill) have meant that there’s not much development outside of the walls, a substantial portion of which still stand. So, you get to be in the vicinity of a city while walking in naturally green surroundings. And you also get to sense what a medieval city would have been like, with all of the action (and crowdedness, I’m sure) taking place inside the walls (where it was safe) and not much happening outside of them (where it wasn’t so safe).

Quick Overview & History

The name Stříbro tells you everything about the town’s beginnings. It was born from silver—first mined here in the 12th century, with written records appearing by 1183. But the real boom came when King Ottokar II of Bohemia founded a royal mining town between 1240 and 1250, granting it full town privileges in 1263.

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As in many medieval mining tales, the first glint of silver was likely spotted by accident—perhaps by shepherds or wandering prospectors who noticed the shimmer of ore in a streambed. Once word reached the crown, the king swiftly took control, since mining rights in Bohemia traditionally belonged to the monarchy.

The town’s royal mining status brought both protection and prosperity, and by the 16th century Stříbro was thriving, its Renaissance façades reflecting the wealth of its veins below.

Beautiful facades on Masaryk Square in Stribro.

Walking through the old streets today, you can almost feel that past energy—the way the narrow lanes funnel toward the square, how the bridge leads naturally to fortified gates.

Stříbro’s rise and fall mirrored that of Kutná Hora, another silver town I know well and often guide visitors through. But Stříbro saw its fortunes fade due to Kutná Hora’s richer mines, and the Hussite Wars, plague, and the Thirty Years’ War took their toll on both cities.

Lead mining revived in Stříbro in the 17th century and lasted into the 20th, but the town never quite regained its former prominence. After World War II, the expulsion of the German population once again reshaped the community—a story familiar to many Czech border towns, including Úterý.

Today, what remains feels almost like a perfectly framed memory: a preserved snapshot of Renaissance ambition and quiet endurance.

The Jewish Community in Stříbro

Unlike nearby Úterý (Tuesday), Stříbro once had a Jewish community dating back to the medieval period. Its members contributed to trade, crafts, and local business life, enduring alternating periods of tolerance and persecution.

During World War II, the community was devastated under Nazi occupation, and it never recovered after the war. Today, traces remain only in a few historic sites.

Former Synagogue
The former synagogue stood at Mánesova 16, in the courtyard of what was known as the Rabbi’s House. The building is now a private residence. When I visited, not only was it not accessible, but I couldn’t find any visible marker or plaque—perhaps one day the town will rectify this oversight.

Jewish Cemetery
Apparently, the Jewish cemetery lies about 1.5 km northwest of the town center, near the road to Kšice, but I did not have the chance to visit it. From what I’ve read, around 20 to 100 gravestones remain, most from the 20th century, carved in marble, granite, or limestone with Hebrew and Yiddish inscriptions, a reminder of how much history can linger even when voices fade.

Architectural Legacy

Stříbro’s skyline is a frozen echo of its golden era. Many of its buildings date from the 14th–16th centuries, when mining wealth peaked. Ironically, the town’s later stagnation helped preserve its beauty—few modern intrusions disturb the medieval core.

The stone bridge, town hall, churches, and remnants of the city walls all whisper of a once-prosperous past. As you wander, it’s easy to imagine the clang of hammers and carts of ore rolling over cobblestones centuries ago.

A hotel on Masaryk Square in Stribro.

Must-See Highlights in Stříbro

1. Renaissance Stone Bridge with Gate
The magic of Stříbro begins as soon as you arrive—especially if you walk from the train station. The path leads across a five-arched Renaissance bridge spanning the river Mže. Built between 1555 and 1560, this 60-meter bridge retains both its tower and ornate sgraffito decorations. It’s one of only a few of its kind in Europe—comparable in atmosphere to Prague’s Charles Bridge, though far quieter (and smaller).

The stone bridge and defense tower in Stribro.

2. Historic Town Centre & Masaryk Square
At the heart of Stříbro lies Masaryk Square, dominated by a gorgeous Renaissance town hall from 1543. Its intricate sgraffito patterns make it one of the most beautiful I’ve seen anywhere in the Czech Republic—a proud symbol of the city’s former wealth. When you arrive in town – which means when you arrive at this main square – the town hall grabs you and you almost can’t look away!

Stribro's stunning Renaissance town hall.

Opposite the town hall stands a Baroque plague column from 1710, built after a deadly epidemic. In the cobblestones nearby, look for a small but fascinating detail: a marker for the 13th meridian, surrounded by stones from cities along the same longitude—a quiet nod to unity across distance and time.

The plague column in Stribro.

3. Minorite Monastery & City Museum
Founded in the 13th century by the Švamberk family, this former Minorite monastery now houses the Stříbro City Museum. Inside, you’ll find exhibits on archaeology, mining, and the story of Albrecht von Wallenstein (Valdštejn), whose remains were once interred here.

The City Museum in Stribro.

It’s a surprisingly rich collection for a town of this size—and a reminder of how far its influence once reached. The museum shop also has postcards (no stamps) and some information on Stribro and the surrounding areas, though not much of it is in English.

For more on Wallenstein (sometimes called Waldstein), see the Mala Strana (Lesser Quarter) walk in my book, Prague Walks, which will lead you to the Wallenstein Garden, which features in Dan Brown’s latest book, Secret of Secrets!

The links for the above two books are sponsored links on Amazon.com.

4. Church of All Saints & Tower Viewpoint
The (originally) Gothic Church of All Saints (Kostel Všech Svatých ve Stříbře), rebuilt in the 18th century in its mostly Baroque style, now combines Gothic roots with Baroque grace. Its sunny yellow façade brightens even the grayest Central European winter day, and if you climb the 144 steps to the top of its tower, you’ll be rewarded with sweeping views over the town’s rooftops and river valley.

Church of All Saints (Kostel Všech Svatých) in Stribro.

5. Town Fortifications & Hussite Bastion
Remnants of medieval defenses still stand around Stříbro, most notably the Hussite Bastion near the stone bridge. These walls hint at the town’s strategic role on the Golden Route between Prague and Nuremberg—once bustling with merchants and guards.

The Hussite Bastion in Stribro.

6. Outdoor Trails
For walkers, Stříbro offers some of the most peaceful trails in Western Bohemia. A scenic 4–6 km loop circles the town and climbs Křížový vrch, a hill lined with fourteen chapels depicting the Stations of the Cross.

If you’re up for a longer walk, the route toward the Hracholusky Reservoir makes a wonderful day trip—especially if you love the blend of forest, water, and quiet countryside that characterizes so much of the Czech landscape.

A walk outside Stribro's old walls.

Eat and Drink

There are many places to eat and drink in Stribro, but probably the best and certainly the most popular among locals and visitors alike is Excellent Restaurant (the name says it all) right on Masaryk Square. You might think that the views of the town hall from its terrace are what make it so popular, but in reality it’s the food and drink, too. So put this on your list if you visit.

There’s also a new café next to the city museum that serves good Czech wines. They have coffee and desserts, too, and they both look and smell fabulous!

A new cafe next to Stribro's museum.

Stříbro or Kutná Hora?

Both towns share a silver legacy, but their personalities couldn’t be more different. Kutná Hora is grand, UNESCO-listed, and well-trodden (though much less so than Prague), known for its Bone Church and Gothic splendor. Stříbro, by contrast, feels like its introspective sibling—smaller, humbler, but no less beautiful.

Town hall and plague column on Stribro's Masaryk Square.

If you’ve already been to Kutná Hora, Stříbro offers a refreshing contrast: a chance to explore Czech history without crowds, to wander at your own pace, and to sense the quiet pulse of a place that still glimmers with stories.

In Summary

For lovers of history, architecture, and peaceful hiking, Stříbro is a perfect off-the-beaten-path destination—a small city called Silver, still shining softly in the Bohemian hills.

For more information on travel in the Czech Republic or if you're interested in one of my private Prague tours, get in touch!

Sources

“Stříbro” – Wikipedia page for Stříbro: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/St%C5%99%C3%ADbro — gives overview of history, mining origins, architecture. (Wikipedia)
“Stříbro bridge” – Wikipedia page for the Renaissance bridge in Stříbro: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/St%C5%99%C3%ADbro_bridge — details on the five-arched bridge, construction dates, etc. (Wikipedia)
“The Renaissance bridge in Stříbro on a CNB gold coin” – Press release from the Czech National Bank: https://www.cnb.cz/en/cnb-news/press-releases/The-Renaissance-bridge-in-Stribro-on-a-CNB-gold-coin-00001 — shows significance of the bridge and gives historical note. (cnb.cz)
German Wikipedia: “Stříbro” (Geschichte section) – https://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/St%C5%99%C3%ADbro — provides deeper historical background (Hussite wars, etc). (Wikipedia)

]]><![CDATA[A Tiny Town Called Tuesday]]>Sat, 13 Sep 2025 13:26:00 GMThttps://www.exclusivepraguetours.com/prague-blog/a-tiny-town-called-tuesday

A view of Úterý from its main square. All photos by the author.

Tucked away in the gentle hills of western Bohemia, the town of Úterý (which translates to Tuesday in Czech) is one of those places that seems to have slipped through the cracks of time—in the best way possible.

A Snapshot of Úterý

With a population of just a few hundred, Úterý is small, but its quiet streets, medieval charm, and surrounding natural beauty make it a peaceful retreat for those seeking something off the beaten path. This little town lies within the Teplá Highlands in the Plzeň Region, and while it’s not a major tourist destination, that’s precisely its appeal.

The town’s historic core is protected as a municipal historic preservation zone (městská památková zóna), with colorful houses clustered around a central square that feels like a scene from a storybook.

Utery's main square, with the town hall on the left.

Úterý's main square, with the town hall ("radnice") on the left.

Wander a bit further and you’ll find that Úterý is surrounded by rolling countryside, forests, and walking trails—perfect for a leisurely hike or just clearing your head. It's also not far from the spa town of Mariánské Lázně or the historic city of Plzeň, home of the original Pilsner beer.

The Church of the Nativity of Saint John the Baptist with surrounding countryside.

Though small, Úterý hosts cultural events from time to time, and its peaceful pace offers a rare kind of stillness. It's a wonderful place to disconnect, take deep breaths of fresh country air, and remember that beauty often lives in the quietest corners.

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So, if you're ever winding your way through the Czech Republic and feel like taking a detour, keep an eye out for Úterý. It might not be on every map—but it could be just the stop you didn’t know you needed.

A Market Town with Medieval Origins

Úterý’s Latin name, Novum forum, and German equivalent, Neumarkt, both translate to “new market”—a nod to its founding as a market town on regional trade routes. Apparently the day on which Úterý held markets was Tuesday, which is the source of its current (Czech) name.

Entrance to Úterý from the southeast.

The earliest written mention of Úterý dates back to 1233, when it was gifted to Queen Constance by her son, King Wenceslaus I of Bohemia (also known as Václav I).

Legends speak of German miners founding the town, drawn by rumors of gold in the hills. But while large-scale mining remains unproven, German settlement in this part of Bohemia was common—especially during the 13th and 14th centuries when the Czech crown encouraged German colonization.

A German-Czech Town Through Time

Like many towns in the borderlands of Bohemia, Úterý had a significant German-speaking population up through the early 20th century, straddling the line between German and Czech identities. It was part of the Sudetenland – both geographically and politically – during the period leading up to and during World War II, and it experienced the full arc of that region’s historical trauma: Annexation, war, expulsion, and postwar resettlement.

Half-timbered houses in Úterý.

But after World War II, nearly all of Úterý’s German population was expelled, and the town’s demographic makeup changed overnight. Many homes were left empty or fell into disrepair, and the population dropped sharply.

The snapshot below from Wikipedia tells the tale of the precipitous drop off in residents from 1930 to 1950 (presumably a census wasn't done during WWII), and the population has never recovered - currently there are around 430 inhabitants in Úterý.

Rediscovery and Revival

During the Communist era, Úterý faded into obscurity, its aging buildings neglected. But beginning in the 1990s, the town experienced a modest revival. Artists, holidaymakers, and preservationists were drawn to its charm. Restoration efforts began, including grassroots projects to save historic homes and revive public spaces. But this has been a very slow process.

One of many historic buildings in Utery in need of repair.

One of many historic buildings in Úterý in need of repair.

Historic Core and Architectural Layers

Despite its small size, Úterý has been designated a municipal monument zone for good reason. The main square is lined with burghers’ houses that preserve medieval cores—cellars, foundations, and interior structures—even if their facades were rebuilt in Baroque or later styles.

Buildings on Úterý's main square.

A devastating fire in 1694 destroyed much of the town, leading to large-scale reconstruction. Today, many of the buildings around the square—including nine historic houses, a plague column, and a Baroque fountain—date from that period of rebuilding.

House “Na Růžku” in Utery, which local volunteers are slowly restoring.

House “Na Růžku” in Úterý, which local volunteers are slowly restoring.

But the town retains an abundance of medieval buildings that make it hauntingly unique. One example is the House “Na Růžku,” a medieval corner building now under restoration by local volunteers. Its ongoing renovation symbolizes the growing interest in preserving Úterý’s architectural heritage.

Church of the Nativity of Saint John the Baptist

The architectural centerpiece of Úterý is the Church of the Nativity of Saint John the Baptist, a Baroque masterpiece constructed in the early 1700s. The church is attributed to either Kilian Ignaz Dientzenhofer or his father, Christoph Dientzenhofer, both leading architects of the Bohemian Baroque style.

Church of the Nativity of Saint John the Baptist in Úterý.

Set against a lush hillside, the church’s curves and ornamentation are a striking contrast to the town’s medieval rural simplicity – making it a rewarding stop for architecture lovers and photographers alike.

Church of the Nativity of Saint John the Baptist in Utery with surrounding countryside.

Church of the Nativity of Saint John the Baptist in Úterý with surrounding countryside.

A Hike to Jansův mlýn Along Úterský Potok

The lush hills surrounding Úterý make it a great place to enjoy nature as well, and you can start a lovely walk that will take you along the Úterský Potok (Úterý Stream) right in the heart of Úterý, on the main square. From here, follow the green-marked tourist trail that leads gently downhill, away from the village and toward the whispering banks of the Úterský Potok.

Medieval buildings on the main square in Utery.

Medieval buildings on the main square in Úterý.

As you leave the town behind, the trail becomes a soft dirt path, occasionally crossing narrow bridges or quiet rural roads. You'll soon find yourself walking alongside the stream, which flows calmly over mossy stones, shaded by alder and willow trees. The air here is cooler, the rustling leaves and birdsong blending with the sound of running water.

A pasture near the start of the Úterský Potok (Utery Stream).

A pasture near the start of the Úterský Potok (Úterý Stream).

The landscape opens up into a mix of open pastures and low wooded hills. On one side, cows graze lazily in meadows; on the other, dense forest rises sharply—classic Bohemian countryside. The trail hugs the stream, meandering gently through the valley. In some places, the path narrows and climbs briefly above the water, offering glimpses down into the winding creek below.

A forested slope leading down to the Úterský Potok (Utery Stream).

A forested slope leading down to the Úterský Potok (Úterý Stream).

You'll pass old millstones, moss-covered rocks, and even a chapel – subtle hints of the area's long industrial history. In the spring and early summer, the trail bursts with wildflowers; in autumn, the forest turns gold.

A chapel on the path along the Úterský Potok (Utery Stream).

Crossing the stream near the Jansův Mlýn (Jansuv Mill).

After about an hour or so of hiking, the path begins to feel more remote. The forest thickens, and you might spot the occasional deer trail or hear the distant tapping of a woodpecker. Keep an eye out for where the Lomený potok flows into Úterský potok—here, just above the confluence, you'll find the ruins of Jansův mlýn, tucked away in a hidden curve of the valley.

The mill, long abandoned, is now just a shell of stone walls and crumbling foundations. Nature has almost completely reclaimed it: ivy creeps over the stone, and the stream murmurs softly nearby. Across the water stands an old wayside cross, dated 1870, a quiet reminder of those who once lived and worked in this peaceful spot.

A meadow near the Jansův Mlýn (Jansuv Mill).

It's the perfect place to stop, rest, and reflect. Listen to the stream. Let the past settle around you. Then, either head back the way you came—or continue exploring deeper into the valley.

Things to Do in Úterý

To be honest, there's not a lot to do in Úterý—and I don’t mean that as a criticism. In fact, its lack of activity adds to its uniqueness. Ever since I first visited during the pandemic in 2020, I’ve wanted to return.

I counted one restaurant and—new on this second visit—one "café": a room in House 'Na Růžku,' where a local volunteer serves coffee to go from a machine that doesn’t quite match the quality of a Nespresso you might have at home. When you go to the restaurant, the waitress comes to your table and asks "What would you like?" And you will ask to see the menu, to which she'll reply, "We have gulash and schnitzel." That's all.

There are also very few people around. It's rare to meet anyone on the street. The town feels almost empty. There are very few cars - even in front of the town hall, normally a hubbub of activity in all Central European towns. And the surrounding densely forested hills add not only beauty but also a deep sense of isolation. The contrast is striking: the number of buildings, though modest, suggests life and activity—but there is very little of either. The quiet, the stillness, the age of the medieval architecture—all of it creates a haunting atmosphere unlike anything I’ve experienced elsewhere.

An ancient half-timbered house in Úterý.

Here, in the former Sudetenland of what was once Czechoslovakia, you can feel a different kind of historical weight. It’s not just the legacy of war, but of what followed—emptiness, silence, a sense of something removed. After WWII, the German population was expelled, and towns like Úterý became quieter, lonelier places. The war punished everyone in different ways: the Germans for what was done in their name—and for what many actively supported or did themselves—and the Czechs for what they felt they had to do in response. It's a history of loss layered upon loss.

While this is not the same as the horror of the Holocaust—which stands alone in its devastation—it is another echo of the war that still lingers in the town’s silence and spaces. In Úterý, I’ve felt this echo—both of the Holocaust and the lingering isolation—more strongly than anywhere else. And interestingly Úterý never had a Jewish population - it was always too small. And yet the weight of WWII can be felt in the form of isolation.

A hillside view of Úterý.

This isn't meant to put you off. Quite the opposite. Úterý’s beauty, uniqueness, and quiet charm make it worth experiencing. And when you visit, you’ll feel something entirely your own. But for me, the beauty doesn’t erase the sense of loss and isolation—they sit side by side. That’s what makes Úterý’s beauty haunting, and why it stays with me.

And it’s almost worth the drive just to watch the town and landscape unfold as you descend the winding hillside roads, especially if you’re approaching from the south. At first glance, Úterý seems like a fairytale town, gently nestled into the hills, with the Baroque dome and tower of its church rising prominently from its perch in the center. But after spending time there, the feeling I experienced was very different—quieter, deeper, and haunting in a way that lingers long after you leave.

Half-timbered houses in Úterý.

So despite—or perhaps because of—all of this, Úterý is worth a visit. Its quiet and small size offer a peaceful setting for historical exploration, nature walks, and a welcome pause between the busier corners of the Czech Republic.

And here are some things you CAN do in Úterý:

Stroll Through the Historic Village Center
Enjoy the preserved architecture, old stone walls, and painted facades as you wander through the town. The central square feels untouched by time.

Take a Walk in Nature
Úterý is surrounded by forests, gentle hills, and scenic trails—perfect for hiking, birdwatching, or just enjoying the fresh countryside air.

Visit Nearby Attractions
·  Mariánské Lázně: A famous spa town about 45 minutes away.
·  Plzeň (Pilsen): Just 35 km southeast, home of the original Pilsner beer and a lively historic center.
·  Teplá Monastery: A nearby monastery with a vast baroque library and guided tours.

The "blue house" in Úterý.

Practical Travel Tips

How to Get to Úterý
Úterý is easiest to reach by car. It’s about a 40-minute drive from Plzeň and roughly 90 minutes from Prague. And as I mentioned above, it's almost worth the drive just to see the town unfold before you from the surrounding wooded hills.

Public transport options are limited, so plan accordingly. The lack of public transportation means that there aren't many tourists in Úterý, which is another reason the streets are empty which, as I described above, only adds to Úterý’s haunting quality.

Historic buildings in Úterý.

Where to Stay
Accommodations in Úterý are (very) limited, too (I think there's only one place according to the volunteer selling coffee, actually, and that, too, is new since my 2020 visit!)l But nearby villages offer pensions (guesthouses) and country inns. Staying in Plzeň or Mariánské Lázně and making a day trip is a great alternative.

Best Time to Visit
Late spring through early autumn is ideal for visiting. The countryside is green and vibrant in spring and summer, while autumn offers beautiful colors and cooler hiking weather.

Final Thoughts

Úterý may not have bustling cafes or endless attractions, but its quiet streets hold stories that reach far beyond its borders. It challenges us to remember, to feel, and to see history not just in books but in the spaces we inhabit. For those willing to listen, Úterý offers a haunting beauty—and a chance to experience history in a deeply personal way.

Úterý's main square.

Contact Me

If you'd like more information about Úterý or other day trips from Prague, or if you're interested in one of my Prague tours, please get in touch. And don't forget to checkout my Prague guidebook series to help you plan your stay.

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References

Národní památkový ústav (National Heritage Institute). Information on Úterý’s historic preservation zone.
https://www.npu.cz/en
Wikipedia. Úterý - general overview and history.
https://cs.wikipedia.org/wiki/Úterý
Hrady-zriceniny.cz. Historical details on Jansův mlýn and Úterý’s ruins.
https://www.hrady-zriceniny.cz/objekt_jansuv_mlyn.htm
Encyclopedia Britannica. Sudetenland history overview.
https://www.britannica.com/place/Sudetenland
Radio Prague International. The expulsion of the German population from Czechoslovakia after WWII.
https://www.radio.cz/en/section/curraffrs/the-expulsion-of-the-german-population-from-czechoslovakia
Wikipedia. Kilian Ignaz Dientzenhofer and Czech Baroque architecture.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kilian_Ignaz_Dientzenhofer
Pamatkovy Katalog (Heritage Catalog). Architectural info on the Church of the Nativity of Saint John the Baptist.
https://pamatkovykatalog.cz
Czech Tourist Club (KČT). Hiking trails and tourist routes in the Teplá Highlands.
https://www.kct.cz/en
Vodnimlyny.cz. Information on water mills and related trails in the region.
http://www.vodnimlyny.cz
Mariánské Lázně Tourism. Spa town near Úterý.
https://www.marianskelazne.cz/en
Plzeň City Tourism. Historic city near Úterý.
https://plzen.eu/en

]]><![CDATA[Prague Day Trips - Tábor]]>Wed, 03 Sep 2025 14:48:19 GMThttps://www.exclusivepraguetours.com/prague-blog/prague-day-trips-tabor

Žižkovo Náměstí (Žižka Square) in Tabor. Photo by Leonhard Niederwimmer
courtesy of Pixabay. All other photos are by the author.

Tábor is located in the South Bohemian Region of the Czech Republic, about 90 km (56 miles) south of Prague. Perched on a hill above the Lužnice River, this feature gave it a naturally defensible position that played a major role in its early history.

Founded in 1420, Tábor is most famous as the stronghold of the Hussites, a Protestant reform movement led by Jan Hus, who predated Martin Luther by a century. The town was named after Mount Tabor in Galilee, a biblical reference symbolizing the city as a “new Jerusalem.”

Tábor was established by followers of Jan Žižka who was (as legend has it) a one-eyed general who fought on the side of Jan Hus in the Hussite Wars which were fought in Hus’ name. Sadly, Hus was burned at the stake a few years before those wars began, and Tábor’s main square (Žižkovo Náměstí) is named for Žižka.

The Hussite Museum (Husitské Muzeum) and the Church of the Transfiguration on Mount Tábor.

Many of Tábor’s important sites are located on the main square, such as the Hussite Museum (Husitské Muzeum), which is housed in the Old Town Hall (which is partially visible on the left in the photo above), and the Church of the Transfiguration on Mount Tábor (right in the photo above) dating to the 15th century.

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Modern Tábor:

A short walk southwest of the museum are the Kotnov Tower and Bechyně Gate, which are the only preserved parts of the city’s original 15th-century castle.

Today, Tábor is a medium-sized town with a population of around 34,000. It retains much of its medieval charm, with cobbled streets, well-preserved architecture, and a strong sense of historical identity. It also serves as a cultural center, hosting festivals such as the Tábor Meetings (Táborská setkání), a historical reenactment celebrating the town's Hussite roots.

More Than History

In addition to Gothic and Renaissance architecture and cobblestone streets, Tábor also has lots of charming cafes and good restaurants that you should definitely try if you visit. Most are located in the old buildings of the historical center, many offering outdoor seating in warmer months.

One of many cafes on Pražská Street.

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Fun in the Sun

You can also spend your day revolving around summer activities in Tábor if you want (and if the weather cooperates). You can walk, jog, run or bike along the path around the Jordan or take a swim in it if you want to cool off.

A Short Train Ride Away

In addition to historical significance and beauty, another reason Tábor is an ideal destination for a day trip from Prague is that it’s reached easily by a one-hour direct train ride from Prague’s main train station.

Entrance hall of Prague's main train station

A Lovely Walk Along the Water

Once you arrive at the station, the historical part of the city is an easy 15-20 minute walk along the bank of the Jordan, a reservoir created when a dam was built in 1492 to supply Tábor's residents with water. This part of Tábor is so nice that you might wish you could hang out around the water’s shaded edge for the day.

The picturesque Jordan reservoir

But the town is certainly worth a visit, so enjoy the walk to the edge of the town’s old walls and ascend the stairs up to the “Vyhlídka Jordán” (the Jordan Viewpoint) on Střelnická Street. Take time to look back at the reservoir for great views.

From there, follow the signs to the center of town (which is easy to do as it’s relatively small), heading to Žižkovo Náměstí (Žižka Square) via Žižkova Street to the main drag called Pražská Street.

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Cafes?

Along the way you’ll pass lots of cool, trendy cafes and bistros, like Kávová Zastávka (the “Coffee Stop”) and Bistro Pražská, which is a good place for a light lunch. You’ll also pass the famous Moccacafé which you should definitely save time (and room in your belly) for before the day is out. Stop there for afternoon coffee and cake (or some of their delicious gelato) before you head back to the train.

As you walk down Pražská Street you’ll be struck by both the beauty and the quaintness of the architecture. Not only has much of Tábor’s historical architecture been preserved, but it’s also been lovingly restored. And while it attracts tourists, it’s nice to see that these buildings are also being put to good use for and by the locals, as well.

One example is the Kafe Knihy Jednota bookshop and café. This place will be full of locals when you visit, and if there’s a free seat outside, it’s a perfect place for people watching as you sip your coffee and perhaps read a paper or a book.

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Zizka Square

As you continue along Pražská heading west, you’ll eventually reach Žižka Square, but before you actually get there, you’ll be confronted with a picture-perfect view of the Church framed by the buildings on the corner of Pražská and the square. Continuing onto the square you’ll be struck by the many attractive houses lining it, including the town hall that now houses the Hussite Museum.

Approaching Žižka Square on Pražská Street

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Houses on Žižka Square

The tourist information center is also on the square, and not only does it have a very friendly and helpful staff, but it also has quite a bit of information about Tábor, its history and architecture and its surroundings in English. If you stop here, make sure to pick up one of these handy brochures about the houses lining the square (and a few more just off of it).

I won’t give the history of each one here, but here are a few photos of a few of the significant ones so that you can see some of what awaits when you visit Tábor.

A Stunning Gothic Church

The square is dominated by the Church of the Transfiguration on Mount Tábor. Built in the 15th century, this Gothic church features a Renaissance tower that you can climb for sweeping views. If the church is open, the interior is worth checking out as well. The stunning height and magnificent vaulting are certainly impressive.

The Church of the Transfiguration on Mount Tábor

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Wine and Dine

After touring the square, visiting the church and perhaps climbing the tower, you might have worked up an appetite. As mentioned previously, Pražská Street is full of good choices, and there’s even an Indian restaurant on the square. I haven’t tried it, but its online menu certainly looks good.

Street scene in Tábor

But one of my favorite restaurants in Tábor is Restaurant Goldie in the boutique Hotel Nautilus right on the square. With a good chef and an attractively-decorated dining room, the Goldie has developed a reputation as one of the best restaurants in Southern Bohemia. In addition to good food, it has a nice wine list, including good wines by the glass, so if you’ve decided to stay overnight, you might want to save this place for dinner.

In any case, you will not be short of good places to eat, drink and indulge in Tábor!

The historic town hall in Tábor

If you’re interested and have time, you can visit the Hussite Museum on Zizka Square that will tell you all about the Hussite movement and Tábor’s role in it. The museum’s exhibits include armor, weapons, manuscripts, and information about medieval life. As mentioned previously, the museum is housed in the former town all, the building pictured here with the clock tower attached to it.

An Old Stone Castle

If you’ve consumed a lot of calories at lunch and want to work some of them off so that you can eat more in the form of dessert and coffee later, you can make your way down the charming and very local Klokotská Street. Use caution though, while it might look like a pedestrian zone, this street actually has automobile traffic, though not much of it. But that only means that the cars can surprise you, and at points this old street is very narrow with NO sidewalks, making it a bit tricky to duck for cover when a car comes up on you.

The town hall tower as viewed from Klokotská Street

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Following this street away from the main square will lead you to the Kotnov Tower and Bechyně Gate, two sites that you do not want to miss when you’re in Tábor.

These structures are the only preserved part of the original 15th-century castle, and a climb up the tower offers panoramic views of Tábor and the surrounding countryside.

Take a Hike!

In addition to water activities, there’s plenty of hiking around the town, and one nice hike will take you through a valley, across a stream and then finally up through an alley of ancient linden trees to a beautifully unique Baroque church with an ambit on a hilltop that will take your breath away when it comes into view. Opposite the church is a nice view of Tábor and the Church of the Transfiguration in the distance on its own opposing peak.

A meadow on the path to Klokoty

Breathtaking Baroque

If your time in Tábor allows for it and if you like to hike, make a pilgrimage to Church of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary in Klokoty. It’s located just a few kilometers southeast of Tábor, and I think you’ll agree from the photos below that it’s worth the time and effort.

Church of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary in Klokoty

There has been a church on this site since the 13th century, but the original church suffered damage during the Hussite Wars. The current Baroque complex dates to the start of the 18th century. The church's architecture and shape is quite unique, as are its ten “onion‑shaped domes” (they're really Baroque domes, but they do bring to mind the more eastern onion domes).

After visiting the church (including the interior if it’s open when you’re there) and walking through its lovely cloister, head back to town the way you came.

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Interior of the Church of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary

Cloister of the Church of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary

The Church of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary

As you approach the path you took to reach the church, take in the view of the Church of the Transfiguration across the valley you traversed. Walk back downhill, through the alley of linden trees, and as you ascend back toward Klokotská Street, you’ll get lovely views of the buildings lining the path.

View of the Kotnov Tower and Bechyně Gate

View on the path back to Tábor from Klokoty

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Sweet Delights

By now your senses are probably filled with the beauty of Tábor, its architecture and landscapes, and your mind is probably full with its history. This is a good time to unwind with a cup of coffee and something sweet at Moccacafé.

Moccacafé In Tábor

Done in a very Viennese tradition of ordering your coffee at your table and then choosing your dessert from the many on offer in the display case, the décor is decidedly modern – and well done (so well done, in fact, that the menu lists the interior design firm and gives its website – lots of people must have asked and I’m not surprised!).

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Wrapping Up Your Day in Tábor

Enjoy the tastes and the atmosphere and use the caffeine for your walk back to the station. But along the way there are a few more sites to see - several actually, but you might not have time for them all, so I’ll list one: the Renaissance water tower on Zizkova Street.

Blending engineering and architecture, the tower is part of Tábor’s historical water system. It’s built into the city walls in the northeastern part of Tábor’s old center and is a great spot with both history and views.

Renaissance water tower

Whether you come for the sweeping views, the layered Hussite history, the peaceful walks around the Jordan, or just for a slice of cake and a cup of coffee in a cozy café, Tábor offers a thoughtful, less-touristed contrast to Prague’s busier pace. It’s a town that rewards the curious, delights the wanderer, and leaves a lasting impression on anyone who takes the time to explore its winding streets and scenic surroundings.

Street scene in Tábor

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So if you find yourself in Prague with a free day and a taste for something authentic, hop on a train and head south. Tábor’s waiting.

Contact Me

If you'd like more information about Tábor or other day trips from Prague, or if you're interested in one of my Prague tours, please get in touch! And don't forget to checkout my Prague guidebook series to help you plan your stay!

References

Encyclopaedia Britannica. “Hussite Wars.” https://www.britannica.com/event/Hussite-Wars
CzechTourism. https://www.visitczechrepublic.com
Local Tourism Board. https://www.visittabor.eu
National Heritage Institute (NPÚ). https://www.npu.cz
České dráhy (Czech Railways). https://www.cd.cz/en
Tábor City Tourism Map. https://www.visittabor.eu
Hiking Trail Information — Mapy.cz. https://mapy.cz
Water Tower Information — GalerieTábor & VisitTábor.eu
Church of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary in Klokoty — old.jiznicechy.cz

]]><![CDATA[Discovering Kolín: A Hidden Gem in the Czech Republic]]>Mon, 30 Jun 2025 16:18:58 GMThttps://www.exclusivepraguetours.com/prague-blog/discovering-kolin-a-hidden-gem-in-the-czech-republic

Stone building housing a museum in Kolin

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Located just 60 kilometers east of Prague, the town of Kolín is a cultural treasure. With its rich history, striking architecture, and riverside charm, Kolín offers a window into Czech life beyond the tourist trail. Whether you're a history enthusiast or an architecture lover, Kolín is a worth discovering.

A Glimpse into History

Kolín's roots trace back to the 13th century, when the town was founded by King Otakar II (the same king who also founded the “town” of Mala Strana, now a historic area of Prague). [1]

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I had wanted to visit Kolín for years, having passed through its train station countless times on my way to and from Kutná Hora to do tours there. The train from Prague to Kutná Hora always stops at the Kolín station, and it often waits there for connecting trains for several minutes . Depending on where I was seated on these train journeys, I would sometimes get a glimpse out of the window of what looked like magnificent Gothic towers in the distance.

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I was curious about these towers, wondering what they were or were attached to – a church or an old castle – and of course I wanted to see them in person. At one point when planning weekend hiking trips with a Czech friend, she mentioned Kolín in passing and that “Peter Parler built a church there.”

Well, that did it. I immediately knew that those towers were what Parler had built. If you’ve been to Prague or read my books, you know that not only am I a huge Peter Parler fan, but you’ll also know that he was a master architect and stonecutter who put a Gothic stamp on Prague and the Czech lands (and on parts of Germany from where he came) that is still evident today.

The Gothic Church of St. Bartholomew by Peter Parler in Kolin

Despite its being close to Prague, it took me years to get to Kolín. But this April, I finally did. It did not disappoint. And while finally seeing those magnificent Gothic structures up close was the highlight of my trip, I discovered that Kolín’s architecture runs the gamut, from Gothic to Renaissance and Baroque, right through to Art Nouveau and Rondocubism.

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From Gothic Grandeur to Rondocubism

Kolín may be small, but its architecture tells a story as grand as that of any European city. Here’s some of what I saw:

St. John the Baptist Church: A Gothic Treasure

Kolín’s St. John the Baptist Church is a stunning example of Gothic architecture dating back to the year 1300. It features classic Gothic elements like pointed arches, ribbed vaults, and beautiful stained-glass windows. But in the 19th century, it underwent an extensive Baroque reconstruction like so many churches in the Czech lands.

Ceiling fresco in St. John the Baptist Church

Originally built as a Catholic church, St. John has been used by the Orthodox Church since the 1950s. Its interior decoration now reflects that and is decorated with Orthodox icons and an iconostasis. The stunning ceiling frescoes depict scenes from the life of St. John the Baptist. The plain exterior of this small church situated on what’s now a busy four-lane road belies the bright colorful display you encounter when you walk inside.

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Renaissance Elegance in Brick and Plaster

Kolín’s main square is a living gallery of architectural history. It’s lined with beautifully preserved burghers' houses that speak of the town’s vibrant and prosperous past.

The sgraffito-covered Renaissance town hall of Kolin

Dating back to the late 15th through early 17th centuries, many of the main square’s structures showcase classic Renaissance style, with symmetrical facades, balanced window placements and intricate sgraffito decorations — often inspired by mythology or biblical scenes — reflecting the wealth and artistic tastes of Kolín’s prosperous merchants and craftsmen from centuries ago.

Baroque Drama

As with Prague, the Counter-Reformation of the 17th and 18th centuries brought a wave of Baroque flair to Kolín’s main square. The building’s façades became more ornate and expressive, boasting curved and sculpted gables that give them a dynamic feel, while the rich stucco decorations and detailed portals highlight the craftsmanship of the time.

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Church of St. Bartholomew: A Gothic Masterpiece

Without a doubt, however, one of the most impressive things I saw was what drew me to Kolín in the first place — those Gothic towers I could see from the train on those trips to Kutná Hora. They belong to the Church of St. Bartholomew.

This Gothic treasure designed by Peter Parler, the famed architect behind Prague’s St. Vitus Cathedral and Charles Bridge, dominates Kolín’s skyline. Built in the late 14th century, the church reflects Parler’s signature Gothic style — dramatic verticality, ribbed vaulting, and intricate tracery.

Industrialization and Its Architecture

Kolín’s transformation from medieval market town to industrial center began in earnest in the late 19th century, with the arrival of the railway in 1845.

This industrialization gave rise to modern industrial architecture and infrastructure, including the iconic Masaryk Bridge, one of my favorites anywhere.

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Masaryk Bridge: Where Industry Meets Elegance

On my countless train rides to Kutná Hora for tours, this bridge always caught my eye as the train approached the Kolín station. Looking at it you immediately know it’s unique, and it’s also very attractive as a work of architecture. While obviously modern, it also has an older, almost Gothic, look and feel. For years I’d wondered about it and couldn’t quite make out what I was seeing. Was it an old bridge or a new one? Was that a power station nestled under it? Now I finally know the story!

The Masaryk Bridge in Kolin

In addition to being a motor and pedestrian bridge, it also incorporates a lock and a hydroelectric power plant, testaments to early 20th-century engineering that make it unique in the Czech Republic. Modern upgrades mean the bridge’s power plant is still helping to power the town nearly a century after its construction.

Spanning the Elbe River, the Masaryk Bridge unites Kolín’s historic center with its industrial outskirts. Designed by František Roith and Hynek Vrbický in the 1920s, its sculptural arches reflect both strength and grace.

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The Gymnázium: A Modern Monument to Learning

One thing I didn’t expect to find in the heart of Kolín is the striking building that houses the city's Gymnázium (a college prep school). More than just an educational institution, it's a tribute to early 20th-century Czech architecture.

Built between 1923 and 1925, the building project was the result of a 1922 design competition won by architects Jan Mayer and Vilém Kvasnička, both students of the influential Czech modernist architect Jan Kotěra (I need to do a blog post on his work — stay tuned!).

The Kolin Gymnazium

Their design reflects the values of the First Czechoslovak Republic: functionality, clarity, and respect for craftsmanship. A standout feature is the reinforced concrete entrance tower, crowned by four legionary rifles—a patriotic reference to the Czechoslovak Legionnaires who helped secure the country's independence after World War I.

What makes this building especially remarkable is the integration of art into its architecture. The facade features 22 sgraffito panels by artist Ferdinand Rubeš, illustrating themes of commerce, industry, and skilled trades. These artworks not only beautify the structure but also reflect its original educational mission—training students for careers in business. The use of patterned, exposed brick is also unusual in Central European architecture.

Unique Rondocubist Houses by Jindřich Freiwald

When you stroll through Kolín’s neighborhoods, you might notice a group of charming houses with distinctive curved forms and artistic flair—these are the Rondocubist residences designed by renowned Czech architect Jindřich Freiwald in the early 1920s.

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What Is Rondocubism?

Rondo-cubism, or Rondokubismus, which blossomed in Czechoslovakia after World War I as a fresh take on the Cubist movement, is one of my favorite architectural styles. Unlike sharp geometric Cubism, Rondocubism uses rounded shapes—semicircles, ovals, and arches—that feel both modern and deeply connected to Slavic traditions. This uniquely Czech style is more than an architectural style—it was a cultural statement of a young nation finding its identity. It was the result of the Czechs’ desire to come up with an architectural style all their own, one that wasn’t imposed on them from elsewhere, and one that was part of the Czech’s drive for independence from the Austrians which they finally achieved after 400 years in 1918.

Between 1921 and 1923, Freiwald crafted several residential projects in Kolín that exemplify this style’s elegance and innovation.

A Villa Quarter Emerges

Before Freiwald did his Rondo-cubist thing, the prosperity of Kolín's industrialists led to the development of a villa quarter adorned with (mostly) Art Nouveau mansions. This, actually, was the first thing I had noticed about Kolín before I ever visited it, back when I first moved to Prague right after the fall of communism and before I ever would have even imagined I’d one day be giving tours. In those days when I was still in the world of finance, I rented a car from my then-landlord: and old Russian Lada, or “Zhiguli,” as they were known in Czech slang. I drove it to Kutná Hora the first time I went there when a newfound Czech friend suggested we go there one Saturday.

That was a long time ago, and not only have both Kutná Hora and Kolín gone through extensive renovations, but the new highway to Kolín also didn’t exist then, so to get to Kutná Hora, one had to drive through the city of Kolín – and right past lots of what looked like to me had been beautiful villas of the one-time wealthy.

This also made me curious about the town, what its industry was (or had been), who the people who had lived in these houses were – even years before I saw the spires of St. Bartholemew. Driving through Kolín following the signs to Kutná Hora, these villas were the only part of town you saw. So, I was very curious about this area, too. While some have been meticulously restored, others await attention. But a leisurely stroll through this area’s tree-lined streets offers a window into the town's pre-WWI and interwar elegance.

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Kolín Train Station: A Modern Architectural Landmark

In contrast to the town's historic buildings, Kolín's train station stands as a sleek example of late 20th-century modernist design, and I find it incredibly interesting, too. Characterized by its clean lines, expansive glass and steel construction, the station also reminds one of the wealth, style and innovation of interwar Czechoslovakia.

The sleek modernity of the Kolin tran station

As you can see, Kolín’s architecture offers excellent examples of almost everything you can find in the Czech Republic. And a trip to the city just to survey its architecture is well worth it. But I had also always wanted to visit Kolín for another reason: its former Jewish Quarter and its history.

Jerusalem on the Elbe: Kolín’s Once Vibrant Jewish Community

Among Kolín's most fascinating areas is the historic Jewish Quarter. This area speaks to a once-thriving community whose presence shaped the town's social and economic life for centuries . [2]

Jews began to settle in Kolin shortly after its founding, and the earliest written records of Jews in the town were from the early 14th century. At the time of the Thirty Years’ War, Kolin had one of the largest Jewish populations in Bohemia, earning it the name “Jerusalem on the Elbe.”

In the mid-1930s, Kolín was home to roughly 1,200 to 1,300 Jews (the Kolín Jewish community was one of the largest outside Prague before World War II). Their presence was a testament to centuries of deep roots in the town. However, this rich heritage was tragically disrupted by the horrors of the Holocaust. Most of Kolín’s Jewish residents were deported to Nazi concentration camps, where the majority perished.

In the immediate aftermath of the war, only a small fraction—fewer than 100 survivors—returned to Kolín. Many of those who returned eventually emigrated. This dramatic decline reflected a painful loss, not only of lives but also of the community’s longstanding presence in Kolín.

Today, the remnants of Kolín’s Jewish heritage—its synagogue, cemetery, and memorials—stand as important reminders of a once-thriving community.

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Kolín Synagogue: A Testament to Resilience

Tucked away near the town center, the Kolín Synagogue is easy to miss—but impossible to forget once discovered. It stands as one of the oldest and most important synagogues in Bohemia, with roots reaching back to the 17th century.

The Kolin Synagogue

The building’s exterior is modest, but inside, a haunting beauty lingers. The main prayer hall is adorned with faded frescoes and Hebrew inscriptions.

Today, the synagogue is no longer used for religious services but serves as a memorial and cultural space, sometimes hosting exhibitions or concerts. Visiting it offers a quiet, powerful reminder of the past.

Life by the Elbe River

Kolín's relationship with the Elbe (Labe) River remains central to its charm, so a visit here can also give you a break from Prague’s tourist hordes. Tree-lined promenades and walking trails follow the riverbanks, offering scenic spots for picnics, cycling, or walking.

Scene of the Elbe River in Kolin

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Local Culture and Events

Despite its modest size, Kolín apparently has a lively cultural calendar. A major highlight is Kmochův Kolín, a brass music festival held each summer in honor of local composer František Kmoch. The festival fills the town with performers from across Europe.

Stroller parade in Kolin

And I don’t know if this is a regular occurrence, but on my trip we encountered a baby carriage brigade making its way through the town – I kid you not! It consisted of about 50 carriages, most of them adorned with baby dolls inside, and some of the “mothers” even dressed to match the era of their carriages.

Delicious cheesecake can be had in Kolin!

I also discovered several good local cafés in Kolín, which is always one of my favorite things. I found a good dessert, too (of course!).

Getting There and Around

Kolín is easily accessible from Prague by train—about 40 to 50 minutes—making it ideal for a day trip or short stay. Once there, the town is compact and walkable.

Why Kolín Now?

Kolín may not yet feature on top travel lists, but that’s exactly why now is the time to go. It offers the beauty, depth, and authenticity that travelers crave—without the over-tourism of bigger cities. From medieval churches and Jewish heritage to 20th-century bridges and modern industry, Kolín is a place where the layers of history reveal themselves slowly and meaningfully.

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If you'd like to visit Kolín or other places in the Czech Republic outside of Prague, contact me for more information. If you're planning a trip to Prague, my Prague guidebooks will help you plan your stay. And, of course, if you're interested in a tour of Prague, get in touch!

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Notes on sources:
1. iajgscemetery.org
2. jguideeurope.org

]]><![CDATA[Zlin: The Town that Bat’a Built]]>Thu, 06 Feb 2025 17:31:23 GMThttps://www.exclusivepraguetours.com/prague-blog/zlin-the-town-that-bata-built

An aerial view of the city of Zlin with Bata factory buildings in the foreground.

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You probably haven’t heard of Zlín, and you might not have heard of Bat’a, but outside of the US, most people the world over know the Bata (pronounced “baht-yah”, and I’ll write it without the apostrophe after the “t” from here on out for ease of English reader’s eyes and your devices’ fonts) brand of shoes. This post will explore the unlikely origin of probably one of the world’s first international brands (and arguably one of the first global brands) in this small town nestled in the Vizovice Highlands east of Brno and West of the Slovak border in the Moravian region of the Czech Republic.

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Zlín’s History

The first written records of Zlín are from 1322 when it was a market town and a craft guild center. Badly damaged in the Thirty Years’ War, Zlín was neglected by the Hungarian noble family that was given ownership of it after the war. As a result, Zlín’s industrial development was limited and its economy was driven by small-scale craftsmanship until the 20th century.

In the communist years the town was called Gottwaldov, named for the first communist president of Czechoslovakia. After the Thirty Years’ War, Zlín got its original name back.

One of many Bata factory buildings exhibiting their iconic "Constructivist" architectural style.

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The Birth of Bata

The Bata Company was founded in 1894 by Tomas Bata and his siblings. After initial gradual growth, both the company’s and its workers prosperity increased rapidly when Bata began supplying shoes to the Austro-Hungarian army during World War I.

The success of Bata’s business transformed Zlín from a small town to a booming industrial center and led to Bata’s being elected its mayor at one point.

Closeup of the facade of one of Ba'ta's factory buildings. Photo by Romavor on Pixabay.

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Bata the Visionary

Bata was truly a visionary – he developed his own management style that is still studied and used by businesses today. In furtherance of the development of his ideas, Bata briefly lived in the United States and worked the assembly line at Ford to learn lessons that he could apply to the production of shoes.

In addition to the use of mass production techniques and a highly efficient distribution system, Bata developed marketing practices that made his company thrive on an international scale.

Giant-sized shoes specially made for and signed by basketball star Shaquille O'Neal on display in the Bata shoe museum.

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$8.99 or $9.00?

I’ll bet you didn’t know that Tomas Bata is the one credited with coming up with the practice of pricing goods at, say, $8.99 instead of $9.00, realizing that psychologically people will be more willing to pay the perceived-less-by-a-dollar price than the price that is in reality only $0.01 more.

He also eventually opened his own film studio for the production of company advertisements, which later branched off into television shows, cartoons and even feature films.

The Bata film studio.

Camera equipment in the Bata film studio.

A True Company Town

But Bata's didn’t just want to create a company; he envisioned a model for industrial towns that would benefit both the company and the workers. He wanted his workers to have more than just jobs – he wanted them to have a better quality of life.

To that end, Bata took inspiration from mill towns in the United States and built affordable housing for his employees. The housing that Bata built for his employees was both a rarity and a luxury for the working– and management–class in Europe at that time.

Department store built and originally owned by the Bata company.

Student dorms built in the classic Bata factory style.

In addition to workers’ housing, Bata invested in schools, healthcare, and leisure for his employees, believing that a strong community was built on well-being.

While Bata’s attitude toward labor is characterized as progressive, being a true company town meant that Bata owned everything – the employees’ housing, the shops, the restaurants, the canteen, and the 2,000-seat (yes - 2,000!) cinema. So the wages earned by Bata’s employees were spent mostly in other businesses owned by Bata.

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And once an employee obtained company housing, he (mostly) or she was required to maintain the property, cut the grass and keep the property tidy. Pets were not allowed, and domestic quarrels (or worse) would get you evicted. Employees were also encouraged to attend church and to exercise regularly.
Still, for its time, Bata’s housing was something that was highly sought after.

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American Style and Gentrification

And Bata’s housing is still sought after today. Like areas in the U.S. that have gone through gentrification, Batas houses, as they are called, are desired by up and coming professionals who are the only ones who can afford them these days.

The first worker’s houses that Bata built were wooden like those of the many U.S. coal-mining, steel mill and textile mill towns in the U.S. Houses made out of wood in the modern era in Europe were and still are very unusual. Brick and mortar rendered with stucco is the norm in most of Europe and in almost all of Central Europe. None of Zlín’s wooden houses remain today, but the photos I’ve seen of them remind me of many of the company houses in and around the textile mills near my hometown in Georgia.

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Bata then moved on to brick houses not rendered on the outside with stucco (also unusual for Europe). These are the main model of home that remains in the original company housing area of Zlín and are the ones that are particularly desirable. Here, too, the architecture was inspired by the U.S., and American architects helped Czech architects with the design and construction of the first Bata brick homes. Once they settled on what they believed was the perfect model for the homes, it was replicated on crescent-shaped streets.

The first style of brick worker's housing built by Bata.

Brick workers' houses built by Bata, the so-called "Bata houses."

View of the back of a typical Bata house.

Closeup of a Bata worker's house.

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A CEO Ahead of His Time

Bata initiated remarkable urban planning, making Zlín one of the first planned industrial towns in Europe, with a focus on the aesthetics and functionality of the factory and other buildings, including many iconic architectural landmarks.

Though not built by Tomas Bata but by his half-brother Jan Antonin after Tomas' death, the Bata Skyscraper was one of the first high-rise buildings in Europe and, at 16 floors, was one of the tallest when it was completed in 1938. But the most amazing thing about it has got to be its “elevator office.” Jan Antonin had the architect place his office in basically what is a huge elevator car on one corner of the building. The office/elevator would ride up and down from floor to floor, where Bata could observe first-hand the progress of work on various factory floors of the building through the large windows of the office and elevator shaft.

The 16-story Bata skyscraper at night. On the back right corner, you can see the illuminated elevator shaft of Bata's office.

This “floating office” was so large that it had a desk for Bata, one for his secretary to sit and take dictation, his phone and a sink with running water. The office/elevator with original fixtures and furnishing still functions today, and you can ride it (if you dare – the view out of the windows of the building as the office ascended motivated me to take the stairs down) if you visit the town and tour the facilities.

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The building has a number of other unique features and, due to its height, stands out in the town, but one of the most striking things about it is its modern Functionalist (sometimes called “Constructivist”) design. Simple rectangular shapes and straight lines characterize its façade, and its exposed red brick construction with concrete cylindrical columns painted white traversing the height of the building make it pleasing to the eye. It’s also timeless.

What’s more, almost all of the Bata factory buildings are in the same style, as are many of the town’s other company buildings, like the hotels and dormitories and university buildings, giving Zlín a calming, universal and congruent appearance.

Various factory and residential buildings in Zlin featuring the classic Bata Constructivist style.

Pictured above: Various factory and residential buildings in Zlin featuring the classic Bata Constructivist style.

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Bata’s and Legacy and Zlín

Ever the driven CEO, Bata met his demise in a plane crash near the Zlín airport trying to get to a business meeting in Switzerland in bad weather conditions in 1932. His half-brother Jan Antonin took over the company until the communist government nationalized it after WWII, at which point Tomas' son, Thomas J. Bata, by then an adult, escaped to the West and took the brand to Canada, India and beyond.

To their credit, even the communist regime allowed architects to construct the new buildings in Zlín in the red brick and white columned Constructivist style first developed in the 1930s under founder Tomas Bata - even if sometimes corners were cut in construction and material quality - rather than the standard gray concrete prefabricated buildings typical of the communist era.

The home of Jan Antonin Bata, Tomas Bata's half-brother.

Cross in the "forest cemetery" envisioned by Tomas Bata.

The "forest cemetery," site of Bata family graves.

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But you get the picture: Bata is synonymous with Zlin. And as Bata's company grew (and the town's population grew almost tenfold in the decade between 1923 and 1932 as Bata's factories churned out more shoes), so did Zlín’s international reputation. The town became known as a symbol of industrial innovation, with the Bata brand becoming a global name in footwear. And Zlin's development under Bata influenced the way industrial towns evolved.

Beyond Bata

Today, Zlín is an Urban Management Zone, still shaped by the innovations Bata introduced in urban development and industrial organization. And although shoe production (and things like precision engineering) continued in Zlin until after the Berlin Wall came down, now there is very little manufacturing of any kind in Bata's company. Most of the Bata factory buildings have been repurposed into an information center, a shoe museum and shops which attract quite a lot of visitors.

The Zlín Congress Centre by Eva Jiricna. It also serves as the seat of Bohuslav Martinů Philharmonic.

The Zlín Congress Centre by Eva Jiricna. It also serves as the seat of the Bohuslav Martinů Philharmonic.

And Bata is not the only famous Zlin native: internationally renowned Czech architect Eva Jiricna also hails from Zlin, and as the town has gone through a rebirth following the fall of communist rule, she has built some new buildings in her hometown, such as a new concert hall in her signature modern steel and glass style.

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]]><![CDATA[Prague’s “New” Town]]>Thu, 01 Aug 2024 16:24:36 GMThttps://www.exclusivepraguetours.com/prague-blog/pragues-new-town

An embankment of the Vltava (Moldau) River in New Town - photo by Vita Valka - reprinted with permission from Pixabay.com

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If you’ve taken one of my Prague tours, you know that I cover the four main historical areas of the city: Old Town, the Jewish Quarter, the Lesser Quarter and Prague Castle. But did you know that Prague also has a New Town (Nove Mesto)? In fact, it was, along with the others named here, one of the five original towns of Prague.

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New Town, however, is not very “new” - it’s 700 years old. So don't let the name fool you! It was founded by King Charles IV in the 14th century. The name derives from the fact that it’s “newer” than Old Town. In fact, when New Town was founded, what is now called Mala Strana (or the Lesser Quarter) was called New Town. But when Charles founded the current New Town, he changed the name of the district below Prague Castle to Mala Strana.

Prague's National Theater from the 19th century - photo by author

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Being one of the five historical districts and dating to the 14th century, New Town naturally contains many historical landmarks, just as the other areas do. But I don’t (yet) do tours of it because:

I don’t know it well enough from a historical perspective to regularly do tours of it (though I will cover certain sites on request).
It’s much larger than the other areas, so logistically speaking, it’s harder to do tours of it in a reasonable amount of time.
The other areas have a greater concentration of significant historical sites in them. This is because: 1) They are, technically, older, so they have more of the older sites; 2) They’re smaller in area, so a greater number of sites are crammed into a smaller space, making a walking tour of, say, two hours in length incredibly rewarding in terms of covering significant sites; and 3) much of New Town was demolished in the late 19th and early 20th centuries when the “new republic” of Czechoslovakia was born and the nation wanted to create a new, modern city akin to the newer parts of Vienna to compete on the world (or at least the European) stage of metropolises.

The Adria Palace is a fine example of Rondocubist architecture - photo by author

Thus, a tour of New Town involves seeing some sites that aren’t so “historical” in terms of age, but which might otherwise be historical in terms of significance. The famous Wenceslas Square, where all of Prague’s revolutions have taken place, including the Velvet one, is just one such example.

And if you’re a fan of 20th-century architecture, especially of the Central European variety, as I am, then Prague - and especially New Town - has a lot to offer. But New Town, like the other areas of Prague, still has several churches, monasteries and Gothic towers for you to see, also.

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It’s summertime, and on a recent particularly beautiful Saturday, I embarked on a stroll through New Town to take some photos of its most important and/or interesting and/or fascinating and/or beautiful sites. I hope you’ll enjoy taking a look at them here, and if you like what you see, consider a stroll through some of New Town when you’re in Prague, if time allows. And if you’d like to be guided through it, contact me for a tour!

Wenceslas Square (Vaclavske Namesti)

I already mentioned Wenceslas Square. This “square” (it’s more like a long, wide, boulevard) is undoubtedly the heart of New Town. Known as the “Times Square” of Prague because of the numerous neon signs (nothing like those in Times Square, to be honest, though), shops, pedestrians and, in some cases, a little seediness, Wenceslas Square was originally the horse market of Prague when New Town was founded.

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Statue of St. Wenceslas on a Horse in front of the National Museum at the top of Wenceslas Square - photo by Jiri reprinted with permission from Pixabay

The National Museum and the Statue of St. Wenceslas

Standing majestically at the top of it is the National Museum (Narodni Muzeum). Built in the late 19th century as part of a Czech national revival (see my book, Prague Walks for more on the national revival) taking place at the time. This archeological museum has just undergone a renovation (and it’s top notch), but before that the bullet holes that the Russian and other Warsaw Pact invaders put in it were still visible. It looks as though now the spots have been repaired but are marked with a different color paint so as to remind people of what happened. The museum’s interior is gorgeous.

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In front of the museum building is a statue of St. Wenceslas (the good King Wenceslas of the Christmas carol), who is patron saint of Prague. Wenceslas was martyred when his brother, Boleslav the Cruel, hacked him to death (or perhaps only put his henchmen up to it). In any case, Wenceslas was never a king in life - he was a duke who was posthumously made king after his death. The statue is by Myslbek, a famous Czech sculptor. He also did the sculptures in the garden at Vysehrad.

It was in front of this statue that Jan Palach, a Czech student, set himself on fire to protest the communist regime. He died of his burns.

The Lucerna

Near the center of the Square where Jindrisska Street on one side and Vodickova on the other come into it is the famous Lucerna. This mixed-use structure was the brainchild of Vacslav Havel, the grandfather of the man who would become the first democratically-elected president of Czechoslovakia in 1989 - 40 years after the communist takeover of the country. President Havel was also called Vaclav, though his first name was spelled differently, and he was relentlessly persecuted by the soviet-dominated government - mainly for being from a wealthy family. The Havel's were builders, and the Lucerna is but one of their constructions.

The Lucerna pasaz (passageway) - photo by author

A Retro Cafe

You’ll find many interesting things in the Lucerna, but the best part about it is its “retro-ness.” walk into the “pasaz” off of Vodickova, marked by a lantern hanging above it, or the one from Stepanska, and keep going until you come to a big open “atrium” with a colored-glass dome, noting the very retro features along the way, such as the original brass trim around the doors and the unique font used in the lettering that lines the way. This is undoubtedly the most beautiful part of the Lucerna, but it’s also where you’ll find a piece of art by David Cerny: a statue of St. Wenceslas on an upside own dead horse.

The Art of David Cerny

You will have probably seen this online or in guidebooks, but here it is in person if you're using this post as a walk. This is Cerny’s take on the statue by Myslbek at the top of the square, and it’s typical of Cerny’s work. He’s my favorite contemporary Czech artist, and here’s why: Whenever you see one of his works, you either love it or hate it. But he always gets an emotional reaction. And to me, getting an emotional reaction - one way or the other - is what art is all about.

I could write a whole blog post on Cerny and his work (and maybe one day I will), but for now we have to stick to New Town. Other features you can see while standing under the horse are the large arched windows of the very retro Lucerna Cafe (have a drink or just take a look inside to see the light fixtures, the original wallpaper and the very retro bar. If you get a seat at one of the arched windows, the views of the horse statue are great, but the main thing about the cafe are its all-original features everywhere.

Statue of St. Wenceslas on an upside down horse byt Czech artist David Cerny in the Lucerna arcade - photo by author

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When under the horse you can also see a staircase leading up to a landing with a bust of the grandfather of Vaclav Havel on it. And, yes, the stairs are marble - a rare feature in Prague, for if you’ve read my book, Prague Walks, you’ll know that there is no indigenous marble in Bohemia, so any marble is imported. There’s precious little of it in the historical sites (it would have been too costly, difficult and time-consuming to import it from southern Europe prior to the 19th century), so what little there is tends to be in newer structures. But it’s all imported.

A Beautiful Retro Cinema

When facing the marble staircase, behind you is the box office to Kino Lucerna (the cinema housed in the building). This is an incredibly beautiful, totally retro, cinema. If you see a movie poster on display on the stairs next to the box office, look closely at the border within the frame that is around the movie poster itself. It’s a bit fuzzy, but you should be able to see some lamps on the walls and decoration, too. This is the interior of the movie hall.

Grand Hotel Evropa

New Town is full of “pasazy” (passageways or arcades), especially on Wenceslas Square. Leading off of the Lucerna atrium (to the sides of the staircase) in a northerly direction is the Rococo Pasaz. Follow the pasaz and emerge on Wenceslas Square and across from you will be the impressive facade of the Grand Hotel Evropa. This Prague Art Nouveau landmark has been under reconstruction since before the pandemic, and it’s finally about to open! I can’t wait, and I hope they’ve left its uniquely historical Art Nouveau cafe intact.

The Art Nouveau Grand Hotel Evropa on Wenceslas Square - photo by author

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Across Vodickova Street is the Svetozor pasaz. In here you’ll find a very retro ice cream parlor, with space-age colors, and a large stained-glass window emblazoned with the word “Tesla” on it. This was an ad for Tesla radios, the first outdoor advertisement in Prague.

Rondocubism

Returning to Vodickova Street from the Svetozor pasaz, turn right and walk south on Vodickova. Soon you’ll pass the Mysak building on your right, a rare example of Rondocubist architecture, and across from it you’ll see a grand Art Nouveau building called “U Novaku” (“At Novak’s”). This was what was called a department store back in the day, but the main thing you want to see now is its incredible Art Nouveau facade.

The Mysak building is another rare example of Rondocubist architecture - photo by author

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Charles Square and the New Town Town Hall

Keep walking and on your left you’ll see a building covered with beautiful red and white sgraffito. This was originally a girl’s school that’s now a co-ed grammar school from the 19th century. A little further South along Vodickova you’ll see the 14th-century town hall and tower of New Town. This is where the so-called First Defenestration of Prague took place in 1419. one of many Protestant-Catholic skirmishes in the Czech lands.

Just past the town hall you’ll see a large park - this is Karlovo Namesti (Charles Square). Back in the day, it was the site of Prague’s cattle market. Today it’s lined with apartment buildings, an 18-century church (St. Ignatius) and monastery that’s now a hospital, the technical university building and Faust House (Faustuv Dum).

Charles Square (Karlovo Namest) is large and green - photo by author

The New Town Hall tower on Charles Square (Karlovo Namest) - photo by author

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Operation Anthropoid

Jecna Street bisects the square running east-west, and if you turn west on it, you’ll eventually come to the Cyril and Methodius Church. In addition to being a beautiful Baroque structure that is home to one of Prague’s few Orthodox Christian congregations, this church is significant because it was here that the Czech paratroopers who successfully assassinated Reinhart Heydrich, the “Reichsprotektor” of Bohemia and Moravia and the highest-ranking Nazi officer to be assassinated during WWII, hid after they carried out the task and their identities had become known.

The Church’s priest hid them in the crypt. Eventually the paratroopers were ratted out and their location revealed, and the Nazis tried everything to get them out or to kill them, including using water cannon to try to flood the crypt. On the south side of the church building, bullet holes are still visible where shots were fired into the crypt window opening.

Bullet holes can still be seen around the window through which the Germans tried to shoot the paratroopers - photo by the author

Cyril and Methodius Church where the paratroopers were hidden by the priest - photo by the author

Entrance to the Memorial to the Heroes of Anthropoid - photo by the author

Cobblestones in the sidewalk outside the church where the paratroopers hid - photo by the author

In the end, the Nazis were not successful in killing the paratroopers, but they all perished anyway. Realizing that they would not make it out alive, they each took their own lives. Now the church’s crypt houses a very well-done and informative exhibition and memorial to the heroes who carried out the attack on Heydrich, which was called “Operation Anthropoid.” It’s free to enter, but donations are welcome.

Several books have been written and movies have been made about Anthropoid.

You’ll Be Hearing From Us!: Operation Anthropoid - the Assassination of SS-Obergruppenführer Reinhard Heydrich and its Consequences - Book

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The Dancing House

From the church, head downhill (west) on Jecna until you come to the river. On your left will be the famous “Dancing House,” or “Fred and Ginger,” as it’s known. Built on an empty lot in the 1990s, this very modern, playful building is the work of Czech architect Ivo Mulanovic and Canadian-American architect Frank Gehry. You can go up to a cafe at the top and visit the roof terrace for great views.

The so-called "Dancing House" - photo by author

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The Petschek Palace and the Bourne Identity

Another of New Town’s most interesting and imposing buildings is the Petschek Palace. Julius Petschek built this building as a bank in the 1920s. During WWII this building served as the Gestapo headquarters in Prague, with interrogations and torture taking place in the bank’s vaults. Now it serves as the Czech Ministry of Industry.

If you’ve seen the first installment in the Bourne Identity series of films, you might recognize this building as the bank that Jason Bourne entered in order to retrieve his passport and other belongings from a safe deposit box inside. Although the interior scenes were shot elsewhere, the exterior scenes were shot here, and you’ll also see an aerial shot of this building when Bourne emerges and starts his run.

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The Last Palace

Julius Petschek who built the bank also built a palatial residence for himself and his family that is now the American Ambassador’s residence in Prague. Being Jewish, the Petschek’s had to leave their home behind in order to escape the Nazis. Former U.S. Ambassador Norman Eisen, whose mother was from former Czechoslovakia, has written a wonderful book about his time in the "palace."

Learn more about the Petscheck Palace and also about Czech history in this wonderful book by Norman Eisen, former U.S. Ambassador to the Czech Republic.

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A Stunning Synagogue

Another of New Town’s most beautiful buildings is the Jerusalem Synagogue on Jerusalem Street. This stunning building with its brightly contrasting colors was designed by Wilhelm Stiasstny, an architect from Bratislava, the capital of Slovakia. he also designed many Jewish sites in Vienna.

Facade of the Jerusalem Synagogue - photo by the author

Interior of the Jerusalem Synagogue - photo by the author

Colorful facade of the Jerusalem Synagogue - photo by the author

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A Beautiful Train Station

Just east of the Synagogue and up the hill a bit is Prague’s main train station (Hlavni Nadrazi). The “old” part of this building is done in a stunning Art Nouveau style, and it has also just undergone a much-needed and much-deserved renovation. Have a coffee in the stylish Fantova Kavarna to experience days of old.

Interior of the original part of Prague's main train station - photo by the author

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There’s much more to be seen in and to be said about New Town, but for a blog post, this is a start. Keep an eye out for a book about the area that I hope to write soon! In the meantime, enjoy this taste and please share it with your friends, family and colleagues who might find it interesting using the links below, even it they’re not planning to visit Prague.

And, as always, get in touch if you’d like to book a Prague tour or if you want help with planning your Prague vacation. And my Prague guidebooks make a great start!

]]><![CDATA[Prague Off the Beaten Path - Vysehrad]]>Wed, 12 Jun 2024 14:55:59 GMThttps://www.exclusivepraguetours.com/prague-blog/prague-off-the-beaten-path-vysehrad

The Leopold Gat at Vysehrad in Prague. This and all other images by the author.

The Leopold Gate at Vysehrad in Prague. This and all other images by the author.

If you’re coming to Prague, you’ll probably spend most of your time in the historic center, meaning you’ll be touring the areas of Old Town, the Lesser Quarter, the Jewish Quarter and/or Prague Castle, and perhaps a bit of New Town (don’t let the name fool you - New Town is 700 years old!). But you probably won’t get beyond these areas, and that makes sense - not only is there a lot to see in each of them, but they’re also more or less adjacent to each other, situated in a relatively compact area straddling the Vltava (Moldau) River.

Head to Prague’s Suburbs and Beat the Crowds

But if time allows on your trip, you might want to consider a visit to Vysehrad, which is in a suburb just south of the center of Prague.

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I don’t normally do tours of Vyšehrad, but I recently got a request to tour the area, and I realized what a shame it is that I hadn’t even been there in such a long time. Years ago, I was at Vysehrad often, as my first apartment in Prague was in a neighborhood nearby, and I used to play tennis at Vyšehrad every weekend. But in spending a beautiful Saturday afternoon there in preparation for my tour, I was reminded of not only its beauty and rich history, but in a way I was also pleasantly surprised to see that tourists hadn’t discovered it - yet - or most of them probably don’t have time for it after touring the historical areas mentioned above.

A path in the park at Vysehrad. Image by author.

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While understandable, that’s a real shame, as there is much to see, learn and just enjoy here, including beautiful architecture, gardens filled with greenery, stunning views of the Vltava River and Prague, and just good ol’ peace and quiet.

A High Castle

The name “Vyšehrad” literally means “high castle,” and that’s why you get the stunning views I just mentioned. Sitting atop a bluff on the eastern side of the Vltava river, this former fortress is strongly connected with Czech myths and legends, especially that of Libuse, the founding princess of the Czech Premyslid dynasty.

Libuse is credited with having visionary powers, and one such vision was that of the future city of Prague stretched out before her. Apparently she saw the future city from Vyšehrad.

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Medieval Origins and Romanesque Ruins

While not as old as Prague Castle, which later usurped Vyšehrad’s importance, Vyšehrad is taller. Its foundations are from the first half of the 10th century, whereas Prague Castle’s origins go back to the 9th century. New fortifications were built in the 14th century, so not much remains of the original fortress. And Vyšehrad remained a fortress until the late 19th century when it was converted into a park.

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The oldest surviving structure at Vyšehrad is St. Martin’s Rotunda. Dating to the 11th century, this Romanesque structure is the oldest of Prague’s three rotundas.

Notable Neo-Gothic Architecture

Probably the most striking structure at Vyšehrad - and certainly the most striking at a distance - is the largely Neo-Gothic (Gothic Revival) Saints Peter and Paul Basilica. Conceived by Josef Mocker, the architect responsible for Prague’s Neo-Gothic wave of the late 19th century, this church was constructed on the site of a church of the same name which was founded in the 10th century.

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The Basilica of Saints Peter and Paul at Vysehrad. Image by author.

The Saints Peter and Paul Basilica at Vysehrad. Image by author.

The church’s stunning towers are 58 meters (about 190 feet) tall, and they crown the view of Vyšehrad that you can see from the Charles Bridge and even from Prague Castle. The interior is a particularly good version of a Mocker interior, combining Neo-Gothic and Art Nouveau motifs rendered in bright colors.

Some of the chapels are adorned with paintings from the Baroque period, including some done by Bendl and Skreta, two of the best Bohemian (Czech) painters from the Baroque period.

A Scupture Garden

On the way to the basilica (on K Rotunde Street) from the rotunda you’ll pass a garden on your left with lush green grass shaded by huge trees, and at each end you’ll see two large sculptures of Czech mythical figures by the sculptor Josef Vaclav Myslbek. Originally, these sculptures adorned the Palacky Bridge, and the two most important ones are Libuse and Premysl on the western end (the end closest to the river) and Sarka and Ctirad on the opposite (eastern) end.

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Premysl, holding a plow, was Libuse’s husband, and Ctirad is a muscular man who is depicted kneeling next to Sarka. Czechs claim that the practice of women wielding a strong hand at home is thanks to a battle in which Sarka and her army defeated Ctirad and his men. Premysl is the plowman Libuse supposedly selected as her husband when the nation's menfolk decided they didn’t want a female leader. In any case, the statues are beautiful.

The Cemetery at Vysehrad

For a real glimpse of Czech culture and history, take a stroll through the cemetery just to the left of the front of Saints Peter and Paul Basilica. Buried here is a panoply of leading Czech artists, composers, writers, sculptors and politicians, including the composers Bedrich Smetana and Antonin Dvorak.

The Slavin Tomb in the Vysehrad Cemetery. Image by author.

At the eastern end is the Slavin tomb honoring many famous figures, including Dvorak. Smetana’s grave is just opposite the Slavin.

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The grave of Czech composer Bedrich Smetana

Like the current iteration of the basilica, the cemetery was established in the late 19th century. Not only are important historical and cultural figures found here, but the cemetery itself is a lovely place.

A Walk Along the Walls

One of the best parts about a visit to Vyšehrad is a walk on top of the soaring walls that surround the park, giving you fabulous views in several directions, the best of these looking south and northwest over the river.

Other impressive parts of Vyšehrad are several of the stunning gates from various centuries that still remain. And, yes, on my reconnaissance tour, I was happy to see that there is still one tennis court left - the one where I used to play every weekend, tucked into the castle walls near the impressive Leopold Gate.

Tennis courts in the Vysehrad walls. Image by author.

Tennis courts within the walls of Vysehrad. Image by author.

Visit Vysehrad

If time allows on your Prague holiday, consider visiting this lovely off-the-beaten path spot. And if you’re interested in a tour of Vyšehrad or any other of the historic areas of Prague, contact me for more information.

I hope you enjoyed this blog post, and please feel free to share with your friends or on social media. Thanks!

Guide yourself through Prague with my series of Prague Walks.

]]><![CDATA[Prague’s Farmers’ Markets]]>Fri, 26 Apr 2024 15:38:57 GMThttps://www.exclusivepraguetours.com/prague-blog/pragues-farmers-markets

Farmers' market at Jiřího z Poděbrad Square. Image by the author.

If you like Farmers’ markets, then Prague has something to offer. Beginning about 10 years ago, true Farmers’ markets started to appear in Prague, and shortly thereafter the locavore trend appeared, too. Initially, there were only a few of these places, with some being markedly better than others. But in the intervening years, they’ve grown in size; most have equalized in quality; and the (Farmers’ market) market has stabilized.

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One of Prague’s Farmers’ markets takes place near the center of town where you're more likely to be if you're a visitor, whereas the others are out in various suburbs. And while the items sold by most are similar, and a few even belong to a single Farmers’ market “group,” fortunately many of the markets have kept their own distinct character and vibe. As a result, some people might venture to a market outside of the one in their own neck of the woods in order to get a certain item from a particular seller, while others do the same in order to get a particular experience.

If you like farmers' markets, maybe you like to eat, so you might want to check out my Prague Restaurant Guide for your trip to Prague, too! It's just been updated for 2024! This is a sponsored link.

Náplavka - First, Biggest and Best?

One of the first markets to appear was the one at Náplavka (it might have been the first, actually), and almost immediately it became the place to “see and be seen” on Saturday mornings – not just for the young and trendy Prague equivalent of a “yuppie” crowd, but also for middle-aged serious chefs and people just wanting to enjoy some good street food and good jazz music in an attractive locale.

The Náplavka market with Prague Castle in the background. Image by author.

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Náplavka is the largest of Prague’s Farmers’ markets, and it takes place along the east side of the riverbank just down from Palackého Náměstí. As you can see from the image above, the crowds at Naplava are big. But don't let that put you off - the flow moves along pretty well, and if it gets overwhelming, you can always escape to Na Brehu Rhony, an excellent French wine bar in a nearby park on the embankment.

Coffee at the Náplavka market. Image by author.

Pastry at the Náplavka market. Image by author.

Like most of Prague's farmers' markets, Naplavka has lots of street food and drinks, like the delicious coffee and "vdolky," a pastry similar to a donut, pictured above. Savory food, beer and wine are also on offer, in addition to fresh produce, meats, jam, ceramics, baskets and more!

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The wine guy at Pastry at the Náplavka market has a lot of customers. Image by author.

Naplavka happens only on Saturdays, from 8:00 a.m. to 2:00 p.m., so if your Prague visit overlaps with that timing, you might want to check it out.

Kubáň at Kubánské Náměstí

Náplavka is in a group with two other markets: Kubáň and Heřmaňák. These two could not be more different from each other, and, especially in the case of Kubáň, very different from Náplavka. Kubáň is very local. It’s quite far out in a more working- to middle-class neighborhood (Prague 10), and you rarely see foreigners (either expats or tourists) there. But you will see LOTS of the local folk having a really nice time enjoying good coffee, beer, wine and live music (folksy-country when I was there recently).

Banner at the entrance of the market at Kubánské Náměstí. Image by author.

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Kubáň doesn’t have as many stalls nor the variety of, say Náplavka or the market at Jiřího z Poděbrad Square (affectionately known as “Jiřák”), but it has lots of families with kids (young and older) getting their bread, meat, pastries, honey and other things and then enjoying the atmosphere at the publicly-provided tables and chairs or around the leftover communist-era concrete structure on one edge of the square. Opposite this piece of “art” is an incongruously long and sterile concrete block building that is also left over from the same period. You’ll get many layers of local flavor here.

Concrete "art" at Kubánské Náměstí. I suppose it was a fountain originally. Image by author.

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Kubáň stands in stark contrast to Náplavka, Jiřák and Heřmaňák, both in terms of size, crowd, vibe and music – cool jazz for the more urban crowd at Náplavka, pop and blues for the cool and trendy crowd at Jiřák and 70s folk for the local crowd at Kubáň.

Lined up for coffee at Kubáň. Image by author.

Heřmaňák on Řezáčovo Náměstí

Heřmaňák is quite unique. I visited it for the first time only a couple of weeks ago to do research for this blog post - as it’s quite far away from where I live, I don’t normally get to that area unless I’m visiting the main National Gallery site or the DOX art center (and that’s usually not during market hours). But the location of the Heřmaňák market intrigued me before I even got there because it’s in the now very up and coming, gentrifying and trendy neighborhood of Holešovice.

The market square where Heřmaňák is held. Image by author.

Even when I first moved to Prague in the days when we expats could afford to live in beautiful historic flats right in Prague’s center, Holešovice was a cool neighborhood we gravitated to – for a slightly more unique pub when pubs were all that were available; sometimes to live; and – most notably – for the opening of Prague’s first English language bookstore, the Globe, in 1993 (have I been here that long?).

Original location of The Globe English language bookstore.

The Globe long ago relocated to New Town, but I’m thankful it’s still here. However, I sometimes miss the original place which now houses another bookstore and café with mainly used books - most of them in Czech but a small number of them in English in the store's English language section. I must admit to some feelings of nostalgia when I rounded the corner by the old Globe to make my way to Heřmaňák, but the market made up for my feelings of loss and sadness.

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Enjoying the Heřmaňák market. Image by author.

Flowers at the Heřmaňák market. Image by author.

First of all, the square on which the market is situated, while perfectly adequate in size, is relatively small in comparison to Náplavka and Kubáň. It’s also quite picturesque, surrounded by mostly solid late 19th-century apartment buildings and a few local restaurants and cafés. The items on offer were sparser than at the other markets, and they leaned more heavily on the “goods” side rather than the “grocery” side. So, you could pick up potted plants and herbs to take home to your kitchen and essential oils for your bath. There was also a greater proportion of street food available relative to other things in comparison to the other markets, like delicious pastries and bramborák. Perhaps this changes when the growing season starts.

Sweets at the Heřmaňák market. Image by author.

Street food cart at the Heřmaňák market. Image by author.

Like the square and the market itself, the crowd was small though it filled the space, and it seemed to be made up of mainly locals from the neighborhood. And because it’s smaller, Heřmaňák is quieter and calmer, too, than, say, Náplavka or Jiřák.

Jiřího z Poděbrad Market (Jiřák)

Jiřák is the nickname for the market at Jiřího z Poděbrad Square, which is the market in my neighborhood. All of us have watched with delight as this market has grown and improved and – several years ago – became runner up to Náplavka in the “see and be seen on a Saturday” department. Originally taking place only two days a week, it’s now held 5 days a week, from Wednesday through Saturday. And it’s probably the most balanced of them all when it comes to farm products, goods and street food. We love it as much for grocery shopping as for entertainment.

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Beer at the Jiriho z Podebrad market. Image by author.

Fruit at The Jiriho z Podebrad market. Image by author.

At Jiřák you can get incredible (mostly local) fresh fruit in the summer (blueberries, strawberries, apricots and cherries) as well as root vegetables most of the time and things like spinach, tomatoes, lettuce and eggplant in the summer. I can tell you that you haven’t tasted a strawberry or a cherry or an apricot until you’ve tasted a Czech one in season.

Meat and seafood vendors are also on hand, and you can get cheeses and fresh bread, too. If you need a shopping basket to carry your purchases, vendors are selling weaved baskets, as well. And you can even pick up fresh wildflowers.

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The unique church by Slovenian architect Josip Plecnik at Jiriho z Podebrad Square. Image by author.

On the weekends, there’s live music and more street food, such as Balkan pljeskovice (like a hamburger patty on the grill with onion) and burek (cheese, spinach or meat in filo dough), as well as classic burgers (in buns). Czech microbrews are on tap, and you can find a glass of wine, too. Several coffee roasters and sellers are selling beans as well as preparing cappuccinos and other of your favorite coffee drinks at good prices. Cakes and pastries are on sale to go with your coffee.

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And if none of that is what you’re looking for, you can soak in the atmosphere of the market by sipping a coffee or a prosecco at one of the many outdoor cafes, wine bars and restaurants that now line the square. It all blends together – the square, the market and its crowd and the cafes and their crowds. And it's all dominated by the amazing Plecnik church pictured above. In short, Jiřák is a great place to be anytime, but especially when the market is on.

Other Markets

In addition to these rather large, “serious” Farmers’ markets, there are smaller ones at various squares around town, typically near metro stations. For example, near the IP Pavlova metro and tram stop a market takes place on Tylovo Náměstí. It’s known as “Trhy Tylak” or “Tylak.” Likewise, near the Hradčanská tram and metro station another small, almost “popup,” market can be found.

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I’m sure there are countless others, but the ones described here are the ones I know, use, and/or are my favorites! Keep in mind that they close in the cooler months (from around November through February. This can vary by market, as do the days of operation and hours by day. Typically live music is provided only on Saturdays.

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If you'd like to know more about Prague's farmers' markets and other happenings in Prague, please get in touch. And you might like to check out my Prague guidebooks, too!

]]><![CDATA[Prague Day Trips: Dresden]]>Fri, 23 Feb 2024 11:51:38 GMThttps://www.exclusivepraguetours.com/prague-blog/prague-day-trips-dresden

Dresden Cathedral (Cathedral of the Holy Trinity) and Dresden Castle (Residenzschloss). Image credit: aletheia via Canva.com.

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If you’ve been following this blog, you’ll know that for the past few years I’ve been doing a series on Prague day trips, roughly defined as trips you can do in one day (although a few places I’ve covered either deserve an overnight stay).

I started this series during the pandemic, and that means that the destinations I initially covered were, out of necessity, places within the Czech Republic because travel beyond its borders was either impossible or not safe. But there are some international destinations you can do in a day from Prague, as well, and at the top of that list is Dresden.

Not only is Dresden historic and beautiful, but it’s also close and easy to get to from Prague: Direct trains to Dresden leave Prague’s main station every two hours for most of the day, and they will get you there in about two and a half hours. When you arrive in Dresden, you’re just a 20-minute walk from the historic center of the city (and you’ll pass some good shopping along the way, to boot!).

Like much of Germany, Dresden suffered significant damage during World War II. And at the end of that horrific conflict, one of the worst bombing campaigns of the war saw incendiary bombs dropped over the city setting it aflame, resulting in the destruction of much of Dresden’s historic center.

After the war, however, a much of Dresden’s center was rebuilt, and a visit to the old part of town today offers a display of some of Dresden’s most remarkable structures.

Worth the Trip!

Before you get there, however, you’ll already get a treat: One of the best parts about a trip to Dresden is not even in Dresden - it’s the train ride you take to get there. The route travels along the Vltava (Moldau) river as it flows north from Prague. Near the town of Mělník, the Vltava merges with the Elbe and follows it as it winds through mountains and sandstone cliffs almost all the way to Dresden.

Sandstone cliffs overlooking the Elbe River and railway tracks below. Image by xMaster from Pixabay.

Czech Switzerland?

The mountainous region on both sides of the Czech-German border is incredibly beautiful, and each country’s name for their respective parts of the area reflects this: “Czech Switzerland (České Švýcarsko) on the Czech side and “German Switzerland” (Deutsche Schweiz) on the other. This whole area is a favorite hiking destination for people from both countries - and for visitors from elsewhere, too.

The train ride gives you but a taste of what’s in store if you were to take a hiking trip here, but the journey is quite impressive on its own. You’ll pass medieval castles perched atop cliffs, and the river is lined with a bike path almost all the way to Dresden. You’ll envy the bikers riding between the cliffs and will wish you were biking on the river, too!

A Movie Set

Before reaching the German border, you’ll pass Hřensko on the right, a quaint Czech town built into a gorge. Not far from here some of the scenes in “The Chronicles of Narnia: The Lion, The Witch And The Wardrobe” were filmed , specifically at the Pravčická Brána stone arch and the Tiské Stěny (the Tisa Walls).

Also on the right you’ll see the spa town of Bad Schandau and will get a great view of some of its historic architecture as well as its 19th-century grand hotels with huge terraces that overlook the river. This area, after all, is where Wes Anderson filmed his famous movie about Central European spa life, “The Grand Budapest Hotel.” Bad Schandau boasts the actual cuckoo clock-style lookout tower (or historic elevator, really: Historischer Personenaufzug) that features so prominently in the film. Eagle-eyed travelers might catch a glimpse of it from the train.

A medieval building in the town of Pirna. Image by Peter Morth from Pixabay,

A little further up from Bad Schandau, the medieval town of Pirna lies on the left side of the train, with its pointed, cramped tile-covered rooftops. Pirna was one place of inspiration for the painter Bernardo Bellotto, the nephew and student of Canaletto, the (more) famous Italian painter. Incidentally, Bernardo was his uncle’s student and was also known as Canaletto.

It won’t be long after you pass Pirna before you roll into the Dresden Central Station (Dresden
Hauptbahnhof). The station itself is a glorious nod to grand European train stations of days past, and its renovation has turned it (back) into a showstopper. Glimpsing the station from the train window as you approach it, you’ll get the sense that you’ve “arrived.”

When you exit the train, the historical center of Dresden – Altstadt (Old Town) and Innere Altstadt (Inner Old Town) are a relatively short (15 to 20-minute) walk away. Look for Prager Strasse (Prague Street) when you exit the station (it lies to the right of the direction in which your train was traveling). If you don’t want to walk, there are several trams that you can take from the station to the historical center.

Tip: There’s a tourist information office at the train station and one in town. They should be able to assist you with tram tickets, maps, etc.

As you walk, you’ll quickly realize that Prager Strasse is a main shopping drag in Dresden. The soviet-era East German block-like buildings have been transformed into modern stores and hotels. But if you look closely enough, you can see their Soviet roots.

Eventually you’ll reach a large, multilane crossroad with lots of traffic and tram stops, too. This indicates that you’re at the edge of Altstadt (Old Town). Cross the street and continue in the same direction on Seestrasse and soon Dresden’s landmarks will begin to come into view.

Along Seestrasse, an imposing yet attractive building will be on your left. It houses an equally imposing shopping mall, the Altmarkt-Galerie Dresden. Toward the building’s end it faces the Altmarkt (the Old Market), a huge square where Dresden’s main Christmas market is held each year.

Across from the southeast corner of the square sits the Holy Cross Church (Kreuzkirche), and behind it is Dresden’s impressive town hall (Rathaus Dresden). The church’s 92-meter (300-foot) tower rises above the old city, while the town hall makes an impression, too. The interior of the Kreuzkirche is worth a look.

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At the opposite (northwest) end of the square will be another large multilane crossroad, and yet more tram stops. Across them lies the Palace of Culture (Kulturpalast). Every former communist city of any size and worth has one (including Prague)! Though it’s also undergone a re-do, you can’t help but notice the characteristic Soviet design (one long, low, disproportionate, plain rectangle).

Once you’ve crossed this large road, you’ll be in the Inner Old Town. Here, the streets will be denser and so will the population of tourist attractions. Walking along Schloßstraße, with the Palace of Culture on your right), the large Neumarkt square can be found to the right/east.

The Frauenkirche's dome is one of the largest in Europe, called the “Stone Bell.” Image by Hans Hansen from Pixabay.

This is the site of the famous Frauenkirche (Church of Our Lady), whose unique visage stands alone to the northeast of the square. The church is one of the most recent sites to be rebuilt (completed in 2005), and the stark contrast in color of the stones making up its façade gives away the fact that it is largely a reconstruction. The original stones are a dark brownish gray and are very few in number indeed, whereas the new ones are a marble white. I suspect not obscuring the old stones by cleaning or otherwise matching the color of all the stones was done on purpose in order to show the extent of the destruction the Frauenkirche suffered.

The unique shape of this church made it a gem of Baroque architecture (the original Baroque church was completed in the middle of the 18th century, according to Wikipedia), and the fact that it lay in ruins for decades following the Second World War made it a symbol. Once the government decided to undertake the church’s painstaking reconstruction, it took over a decade. Its completion marked a completion, of sorts – of the war and its Cold War aftermath and of the reunification of Germany. The statue of Martin Luther in front of the church lets you know that this is a Protestant church.

Bratwurst and Beer, Castles and Kings

The Neumarkt is lined with restaurants and outdoor cafes, so if you’ve worked up an appetite from shopping in the Altmarkt-Galerie, this is a good spot to find a place to eat (especially if it’s warm and the sun is out). But save room for dessert and coffee at the end of your day at the nearby Coselpalais Restaurant & Grand Café. It’s a truly Old World Central European café, and the quality of the cakes matches the quality of the palace where they’re served.

The Furstenzug's Meissen Porcelain wall. Image by Kara Johnstad from Pixabay.

From the Neumarkt there are several directions you can take that will lead you to significant historical sites. To the upper left (northwest) of Neumarkt is Augustusstraße, home of the famous Fürstenzug – an enormous outdoor wall of ceramic tiles picturing Saxon rulers. The original monument was created in the late 19th century, but in the early 20th, the tiles were replaced with new ones made of the famous Meissen Porcelain. Remarkably, they survived the 1945 bombing of Dresden.

Behind the wall of tiles is a 16th-century courtyard called the Stallhof, now home of one Dresden’s most popular Christmas markets. At the end of Augustusstraße lies the Georgentor, and behind it is Dresden Cathedral (Kathedrale Sanctissimae Trinitatis or Cathedral of the Holy Trinity). Originally built by Dresden’s Catholic leader Augustus III in the 18th century, the king included a handy walkway to his home in Dresden Castle (Residenzschloss). Rebuilt in the early 18th century after a fire, it was later redone in a neo-Renaissance style.

The “Balcony of Europe” And a Museum "Quarter"

From the cathedral, turn right onto Schlossplatz where you’ll get a view of Dresden’s Semperoper in 19th-century Baroque Revival style on your left and Brühl's Terrace (Brühlsche Terrasse) on your right. You can ascend the stairs to the terrace overlooking the Elbe for one of the loveliest strolls anywhere. It’s no surprise that this Renaissance terrace is called the “balcony of Europe.” Many a painter and photographer have set up their easels and tripods here.

Taking this promenade will take you to what I call “museum row:” the Kunsthalle im Lipsiusbau, the Albertinum, and the New Masters Gallery (SKD | Galerie Neue Meister), all excellent art galleries, await you here. Continuing east beyond the galleries will take you to the Dresden Synagogue or the New Synagogue. Completed in 2001, it stands on the site of an earlier synagogue which was destroyed during Kristallnacht.

The Semperoper. Image by 12019 from Pixabay.

The Zwinger and the Green Vault

The views of the Elbe and the cathedral from Brühl's Terrace are spectacular, but there’s more. The Zwinger (Dresdner Zwinger) is behind the cathedral and to the left of the opera house. This early 18th-century palatial complex in the Baroque style was meant to be an entrance court of a planned new castle, but the plan was scrapped when its mastermind, Augustus the Strong, died.

The Zwinger is adorned with jewel-box-like domes and crowns covered with gold. In its courtyard has a garden and a pavilion (the Wallpavillon Zwinger). And to top it off, the Zwinger itself houses four museums: The Old Masters Picture Gallery (Gemäldegalerie Alte Meister), a porcelain collection (Porzellansammlung), a sculpture collection (SKD | Skulpturensammlung bis 1800) and a scientific instrument and clock museum (SKD | Mathematisch-Physikalischer Salon).

Courtyard of the Zwinger in Dresden. Image by Josef Kotarba from Pixabay.

And that’s not all! Probably one of the most significant museums is the so-called Green Vault (Grünes Gewölbe) located in Dresden Castle.

OK, if you want to visit all of these museums, you’ll need more than a day in Dresden. But you could pick one and still do a day trip from Prague. In any case, you get the picture: Dresden has great museums, and they’re just one more reason to visit the city.

Neustadt or Dessert and Coffee?

As you can see, there’s a LOT to see in Dresden – and we haven’t even crossed the Elbe to New Town (Neustadt) yet! If you have time, the Neustädter Markthalle, the KONSUM-Markt (a giant food hall) and the Kunsthofpassage are all located in Neustadt.

But Neustadt will probably have to wait for another visit. Now is probably a time to have your dessert and coffee at the aforementioned Grand Café in Coselpalais or to head back to the train station. Don’t forget that from the river the walk back will be about 30 minutes, so plan accordingly!

Contact Me

I hope you've enjoyed the post on Dresden. If you’re planning a trip to Prague and are interested in a day trip to Dresden, contact me if you want help making arrangements.

Happy travels!

Sources: Most of the information in this blog post is from the author's own experience and knowledge, gained from multiple trips to Dresden over many years. Some of the historical data included in this post is from Wikipedia entries.

Disclaimer: The author has made every effort to obtain and provide current and accurate information. Therefore, the author accepts no responsibility for any inconvenience, loss or injury incurred by any person using this blog post or website.

]]><![CDATA[Prague By Tram: A(nother) Great way to see the city]]>Thu, 08 Feb 2024 17:01:29 GMThttps://www.exclusivepraguetours.com/prague-blog/prague-by-tram-another-great-way-to-see-the-city

Photo above courtesy of Canva

Did you know? There are many beautiful tram rides through Prague that are a convenient - and inexpensive - way to see the city.

Of course, the best way to see Prague is on foot – it’s the only way, in fact, to get at many of the city's medieval nooks and crannies. But the trams have their advantages, too:

You can cover more ground in less time;
You can get warm if you're visiting in cooler months; likewise, you can get out of the rain if necessary (though sometimes the wet windows can be difficult to see out of, and it might also mean that the tram will be extra crowded, as you won't be the only one doing this!);
You can conserve your energy for walking around the places you can't reach by tram; this is especially true for steep climbs, like the one up to Prague Castle ("ride up and walk down" is my motto!);
If you're mobility-impaired, trams can be a great way to see the city;
You can quickly and easily get out to Prague's suburbs, many of which have historic and/or unique architecture of their own.

Let's take a look at some of the most beautiful and/or interesting routes in the city.

This classic 23 tram
is taking visitors up
to Prague Castle.

Video is by the author of this blog.

TOP PICKS

Trams 22, 23, 17 and 18 - these trams all go through or around the historical center. By far, the most beautiful - and most popular - route is the number 22, especially the section from the Národní Třída stop to Prague Castle.

On this route, you'll pass the National Theater (Narodní Divadlo) and the famous Cafe Slavia. Next you'll cross the Legií Bridge offering stunning views of the Vltava (Moldau) River, the Charles Bridge, the Lesser Quarter (Malá Strana) and Prague Castle atop its bluff overlooking them all.

Once on the other side of the river, the 22 will wind through the Mala Strana, eventually passing through an archway so narrow that you'll swear that the tram can't squeeze through - until it does.

Tram passing through an archway. Photo courtesy of Evada at Pixabay.

Tram passing through an archway - but this is not the extremely narrow one I mention in the post! Photo courtesy of Evada at Pixabay.

Perhaps the best part, though, is the view you’ll get of the entire old city as you wind your way up the Castle hill on the so-called “serpentine.” Just before you reach the Prague Castle (Pražský Hrad) stop, you'll pass the famous Belvedere, or the Royal Summer Palace, the first Renaissance building in Prague (and a beautiful example of the style).

Tip: Going a few more stops Past the Prague Castle (Pražský Hrad) Stop to Pohořelec will give you interesting views of St. Vitus Cathedral.

Trams 17 and 18 – these trams run along the riverbank on the Old Town side of the Vltava. As with the 22, this route also gives you a beautiful view of Prague Castle and the Charles Bridge, but at a slightly different angle from that on the Legií Bridge (Most Legií).

The Karlovy Lázně tram stop on this route is the one I call "the most beautiful tram stop in the world." Hopefully, you'll get a chance to see why.

The Karlovy Lázně tram stop - the most beautiful tram stop in the world? Image is by the author of this blog.

Beyond the Historical Center

In either direction past the Staroměstská and Narodní Divadlo stops, the 17 and 18 tram routes diverge. Of the two, the 17 offers more interesting views and sites. Heading south, it will travel along a row of gorgeous turn-of-the-(last)-century apartment buildings, mainly in the Art Nouveau style.

No matter the style, it will be immediately apparent to you that these residences (below, right) were meant for the well-heeled. Indeed, former dissident and president Vaclav Havel, who was mercilessly persecuted by the communist regime simply (mainly) for being from a wealthy family, grew up in one of these buildings. He managed to keep his flat throughout the communist years, and it became a place of pilgrimage for foreign dignitaries and intellectuals during that time.

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The famous "Dancing House," or Fred and Ginger, photo courtesy of Pixabay.

Buildings on the beautiful embankment, photo courtesy of Pixabay

This route will also take you by the famous "Dancing House," or Fred and Ginger, as the funky building (pictured above on the left), a collaboration between Frank Gehry and Croatian-Czech architect Vlado Milunić, is known.

In the opposite direction, heading north from the Staroměstská stop, the 17 passes the neo-Renaissance Rudolfinum, home of the Czech Philharmonic and filming location of many movies and TV shows.

The Rudolfinum will be on your left (below, left), while on your right will be the Museum of Decorative Arts. The museum backs onto the Old Jewish Cemetery, and eventually the tram will run along the cemetery's wall. At this point there will be a modern (1920s) building in a neo-Classical style on your left. This is the law school of Charles University designed by renowned architect Jan Kotěra.

From here, the 17 will cross the river on the Art Nouveau Čechův Most and then turn right on the other side. The river will have veered right, too, so the tram (now moving east) will continue along the river before turning left into the Holešovice neighborhood. Before it does this, though, you'll get great views out of the right-hand side of the Old Town and St. Agnes' Monastery.

The Rudolfinum, photo courtesy of Pixabay

St. Anthony of Padua Church on Strossmayerovo Namesti. Image by the author of this blog.

When the tram reaches the Strossmeyerovo Náměstí stop, you’ll get a glimpse of the extremely tall spires of the neo-Gothic Church of St. Anthony of Padua (above, right).

Other Tram Lines

In addition to these top picks, there are several other tram routes to explore if you have time. Two are the 11 and 13, which run up Vinohradská from IP Pavlova to Jiřího z Poděbrad.

Vinohradská is named for the neighborhood in which it lies: Vinohrady. Originating as a neighborhood of wealth and style, it's now known as the place to see and be seen at its local farmers' market and in its trendy cafes and restaurants. And it's also a very desirable place to live. Riding along this famous boulevard you'll see some of the beautiful apartment buildings for which Vinohrady is famous.

Sacred Heart Chruch by Jože Plečnik. Image by the author of this blog.

Eventually you’ll reach Jiřího z Poděbrad Square, getting a great view of the unique Church of the Sacred Heart of Our Lord (Kostel Nejsvětějšího Srdce Páně, pictured above) designed by Slovenian architect Jože Plečnik and completed in 1932.

The 10 and 16 trams will wind around Náměstí Míru, the main square in Vinohrady. This particular square is lined with some of the most sumptuous apartment houses in Vinohrady and is dotted at the top of the square with the glorious neo-Gothic church of St. Ludmila (pictured below). The imposing Vinohrady Theater (Vinohradské Divadlo) is also on the northeast side of this square.

St. Ludmila on Namesti Miru. Image by the author of this blog.

Note: Prague is a very safe city, but it does have good pickpockets, especially on the trams. So please use caution if you use the trams, especially the 22 and 23, as these both go to Prague Castle, which means they’re full of tourists – the folks targeted most by the pickpockets, unfortunately!

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Střešovice a Ořechovka

In a previous blog post I wrote about the amazing Ořechovka neighborhood, which borders Střešovice also. Trams 1 and 2 will take you there. It's further out of the center than Vinohrady in the opposite direction, and it's a particularly lovely, green part of of Prague.

An apartment house in Ořechovka displaying the neighborhood's typical style. Image by the author of this blog.

A Ticket to Ride

To sum it up, riding Prague’s trams is a good way to see the city, including parts of it that might otherwise be off your radar. And the routes highlighted here are just a few of the more interesting tram rides you can take. For more information on getting around Prague, check out my guidebook, Prague Travel Tips: An American’s Guide to Her Adopted City. It’s available on Amazon in both paperback and Kindle versions. Or contact me through this website here.

And don't forget that you need to buy a ticket - and stamp it once you board - to ride the trams. Spot checks by undercover conductors do take place, and, unfortunately, as with the pickpockets - they go for the tourists first! My book also had info on buying tram tickets and more!

Happy riding!

]]><![CDATA[Prague Day Trips - Liberec]]>Fri, 03 Nov 2023 15:58:36 GMThttps://www.exclusivepraguetours.com/prague-blog/prague-day-trips-liberec

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A recent day trip to Liberec once again reminded me of the richness of the history, architecture and geography of the Czech Republic. In one way, it was strange that I had lived in Prague for so many years and had never visited this city. In another, it wasn’t strange at all - I never heard much about it except occasionally meeting someone who was born there, and no Czech person ever told me: “You must go to Liberec” as they had for other places such as Olomouc or Cesky Krumlov. So, I’d never made the trip.

But during the pandemic when it was impractical, if not impossible at times, for me to leave the Czech Republic, a friend suggested we go there for a short holiday (basically a weekend getaway).

Long story short: I fell in love with Liberec almost immediately upon arrival.

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No, Liberec doesn’t have an abundance of the historical architecture you will find in Prague and many other smaller Czech towns of a similar size to Liberec. But in another way it has everything: good restaurants with varied cuisine; fabulous public transport; including a tram line that runs from one end of the city to a mountain ski resort on the outskirts, passing most of the city’s significant historical sites while also stopping at most of the practical and recreational places you’d like to visit. Liberec also has hip, trendy, cool cafes, several good restaurants, nearby downhill and cross-country skiing in the winter and swimming in the summer.

Hotel and TV tower atop Ještěd mountain on the outskirts of Liberec. Photo courtesy of Pixabay.

The city also has several museums, a zoo, a historical neighborhood filled with beautiful early 20th-century villas, a historical theater, a modern library and a spectacular town hall that reminds one of the famous town hall in Brussels. Plus, it’s surrounded by beautiful mountains covered with evergreens. What more could one want?

Some Liberec History

While it’s true that Liberec is not packed with medieval Gothic and 17th- and 18th-century Baroque buildings and churches, it was one of the most important cities in Central Europe in the early 20th century. The things that made Liberec important also made it very wealthy, so it’s late 19th- and early 20th-century architecture is both abundant and stunning. Strolling through the residential neighborhoods of Liberec reveals its wealthy past as you imagine the lifestyle of those who built and lived in its many beautiful villas.

The Liebieg Villa

Situated in the mountainous border region of the Czech Republic near Germany in what was the Sudetenland, records show that Liberec was first mentioned in the 13th century when it was granted town status by King Otakar II, and from that time it and its surrounding land passed through the hands of various noble families, including the Bieberstein, Redern, Wallenstein and Clam-Gallas families.

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In the 19th century, the town’s economic development centered around the textile industry beginning in 1818 when Johann Liebieg moved to Liberec. He eventually became a textile magnate and Liberec became the center of the textile industry for the Austro-Hungarian Empire. In addition to industry, the Liebieg family also left its mark on Liberec in the form of extensive art collections and buildings.

Textile Engineering College in Liberec

At the beginning of the 20th century, Liberec was the second-largest city in the Czech Republic. But like most Czech cities, the tragic events of the 20th century – World Wars I and II followed by decades of communist rule – meant that Liberec suffered greatly. But being situated as it was in the Sudetenland meant Liberec suffered even more than most other Czech towns. The majority of the population in the Sudetenland was historically German, and Liberec was no exception. After World War II, the German population of former Czechoslovakia was expelled, so Liberec experienced an especially sharp decline.

Fast Cars and Spider-Man

Liberec is sometimes called the Czech Republic’s cradle of motoring. Not only is this where the first car in the country was driven, but among its famous natives is Ferdinand Porsche of the famous car brand. And Spider-Man - yes Spider-Man- was spotted here, too, crawling on the facade of the city’s famous town hall.

Take a Stroll Through Beauty and Luxury

As mentioned above, Liberec was became wealthy thanks to textiles, and a stroll through the quarter that is home to the town’s luxury historical villas reflects this. There are actual walking tours (in Czech) that you can find online that will take you on a certain route and describe some of the villas for you, giving you a bit of their history. But if you can’t find one or deal with the Czech or a translation, just a walk through the neighborhood housing them will be a feast for your esthetic senses and for your imagination as you contemplate the lives lived by their inhabitants in the city’s heyday. Pictured below are some of my favorites, but there are many others that I could have included here.

Beautiful Liberec villa in the area of Benlova, Fibichova and Husova Streets

Fence detail of a beautiful Liberec villa

Fun and Sun

Some of the villas are built on a hill overlooking the přehrada (dam) and reservoir, where you can also take a swim on a warm summer day. The view of the villas sloping uphill from the grassy “beach” is pleasant enough, and so one can only imagine how beautiful the view of the reservoir, surrounded by hills and evergreens is from the windows and gardens of the villas. And one of the things that's so wonderful about this swimming and kayaking spot is that it's right in the city!

View of the reservoir and dam (přehrada) in Liberec

View of the reservoir with kayakers and dam (přehrada) in Liberec

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In addition to the reservoir, there’s another place to swim hidden in the forest - a so-called “nature pool” whose water is supplied by streams running down the mountains that surround it. To reach it, you’ll have to take the famous number 3 tram (the one that runs through the heart of the town and hits all the major sites and practical places that I mentioned above) to it’s last stop going east: The zoo.

View of the walkway over the reservoir and dam (přehrada) in Liberec

The Liberec Zoo

The zoo in Liberec is a favorite destination for locals and visitors alike, and it’s highly rated. Getting there on the tram will take you through one of the loveliest neighborhoods in the city - the one filled with some of the most spectacular villas I talked about - along an avenue lined with trees between which the tram runs. It’s incredibly picturesque.

Entry to the Liberec zoo

The ride to the zoo on the number three tram will also pass by the Technical Museum, the Regional Gallery (located in the town's former spa) and the North Bohemian Museum (pictured earlier in this post).

The Regional Gallery in Liberec located in the former town spa

Ski and Hike

With all the mountains surrounding it, of course there’s plenty of skiing in and near Liberec, both downhill and cross-country. In the opposite direction from the zoo, taking the number 3 tram all the way to its other end will get you to the famous Jested tower built on top of a summit laced with ski trails and slopes that the whole family can enjoy. At the base of the tower there are restaurants to re-energize you after all of the skiing, as well as a restaurant in the Jested tower itself.

Ještěd mountain and TV tower in winter. Photo courtesy of Pixabay.

The Czech Republic has some of the world’s most well-marked and well-maintained hiking trails in the world, and the mountains surrounding Liberec offer ample opportunities for hiking. The local train station (also conveniently located on the number 3 tram line and across from the bus station) has regular connections to villages and stops outside of the city and in the foothills of the mountains.

Me on top of the mountain summit in the mountains surrounding Liberec

From this mountain top near Liberec you can see both Germany and Poland.

When I visited, my friend suggested a trip to Oldřichov v Hájích, where we picked up one of many nearby hiking trails that took us to the lookout point of Skalni Hrad ("cliff castle") at Hřebenový buk, where you can see Germany and Poland from one spot. The hike was beautiful as was the point at the summit. Returning down the mountain you emerge into the picturesque village while you wait at the tiny train stop (I won’t call it a “station”) to get your train back to Liberec, a short 10-minute ride away) for a late lunch followed by a dip in the reservoir and a little sunbathing before dinner in warmer months.

The train "station" in Oldrichov

A World-Class Town Hall

Probably one of the most photographed sites in Liberec is its town hall, mainly because of its striking appearance and size. Intricately sculpted and decorated, dominating the town’s main square, this building is certainly the centerpiece of Liberec.

Not far behind it stands the city’s theater, and just beyond it is the municipal library (pictured ealier). It stands on the spot of a former synagogue, which has sadly been lost.

In addition to the town hall, the main square is lined with beautiful … buildings which are now filled with trendy cafes and restaurants. There’s also a good coffee shop on the square directly opposite the town hall which roasts and sells its own beans in wide varieties.

Arcade on the Liberec main square at night

There’s even an Art Deco building on the square housing the Praha Hotel, and behind it is the … church with a soaring tower. Peep inside for a look at some gorgeous Gothic carving.

Anthony the Great Church in Liberec

Between the library and theater is an exhibition space with a fabulous interior that was once a gorgeous Old World, the Post Cafe (Kavárna Pošta). It's normally closed to the public, but if there's an exhibition on, pop in to imagine times gone by. Near this place is the Liberec Tourist Information Center as well as the post office. Stop in the info center to get some maps, town info and post cards and mail them at the nearby post office. The tourist center also has info on hiking and skiing and other activities.

Neo-Rococo interior of the former Post Cafe (Kavárna Pošta) in Liberec

"Feast of the Giants" bus stop by Czech contemporary artist David Černý in Liberec

The New Synagogue in Liberec (Nová synagoga)

Just before the Nazi occupation of former Czechoslovakia in 1938, there were approximately 1,400 Jews in Liberec. After the occupation, almost all of them left and were subsequently killed in the Holocaust. The Liberec synagogue was demolished in 1938 and in its place stood a parking lot until a new synagogue with a unique triangular shape (pictured below), was built into the new library of Liberec in the 1990s. The building (library and synagogue) is called the "Reconciliation Building."

Wine and Dine

Lunch or dinner in Liberec can be at a Vietnamese restaurant or an Irish pub. Or you can try one of the many trendy restaurants and cafes dotted throughout the city.

At the end of your stay, you simply take the number 3 tram back to the bus station and catch one of the frequent buses back to Prague (best to purchase your ticket in advance, as they do get full and the seats are assigned). The ride takes one hour to the Cerny Most metro station (which is, admittedly, on the far outskirts of Prague, so your journey to your hotel will take more than one hour). But the bus lets you out right at the Cerny Most metro station, so in minutes you’ll be on a metro back into Prague - you can reach the city center in 18 minutes.

Bistro Siroka is one of the most popular dining spots in Liberec

Delicious Vietnamese coffee at Moc in Liberec

Interior of Moc Vietnamese restaurant in Liberec

Great coffee at the Liberec train station

Contact Me

I hope you’ll consider a trip to Liberec when you visit Prague. If you have any questions or want mor information, don’t hesitate to contact me.

You can do it all in Liberec!

]]><![CDATA[Prague Day Trips - Kutná Hora]]>Thu, 27 Jul 2023 15:45:22 GMThttps://www.exclusivepraguetours.com/prague-blog/prague-day-trips-kutna-hora

Kutná Hora - Reprinted with permission from Pixabay/Olga Oginskaya

If you’re planning a trip to Prague and have researched day trips, no doubt you’ve heard of Kutná Hora. While it’s not as well-known or as popular as some of the other Czech towns that you can visit, such as Český Krumlov or Karlovy Vary (Carlsbad), it is certainly no less interesting or unique. In addition to my Prague tours, Kutná Hora is the only destination outside of Prague where I also provide tours. Needless to say, it’s one of my favorite places.

Kutná Hora’s History

Kutná Hora, as its name in Czech implies, is a former silver mining town, and this mining legacy had a direct impact on the uniqueness of its layout and architecture that is still visible to this day.

It was in the 13th century that silver was discovered “in them hills,” and the Přemyslid (Czech) kings at the time promptly took possession of the mines and their contents. Kutná Hora grew quickly out of nothing, and in the 14th century it got a royal charter. In its heyday, Kutná Hora was Bohemia’s second largest city after Prague and eventually became one of the largest towns in Europe.

Kutná Hora’s mines turned out to be particularly abundant when it came to the precious metal (at one time its silver mines were the largest in Europe), and so King Wenceslas II, wondering what to do with all that silver his subjects were mining, promptly summoned some Florentine financial experts to the Czech lands and asked them. “Make money,” they replied, as in minted coins. Wenceslas established the town’s first mint in 1300.

The Italian Court, site of Kutná Hora's first mint.

The Euro of the Middle Ages

These financial experts also brought state-of-the-art minting technology with them, and the Bohemian groschen was born. Because of the abundance of silver and the superior minting technology, the Bohemian groschen became the euro of its day – it was widely used and sought after all over Europe. The mining technology that the Florentine experts brought to Kutná Hora ensured that each Bohemian groschen had a precise amount of silver in it, and therefore its value could be relied upon.

Exposed frames of former coining stalls in Kutná Hora's Italian Court

The first mint was in the Italian Court (Vlašský Dvůr), so called because this is where those Florentine experts set up camp and shop. It’s now used as the city’s town hall and is one of the sites you should see if you visit. It also houses the Royal Mint exhibition, and remnants of Kutná Hora’s minting past can be seen in the form of exposed stone frames of (now filled in) windows and doors where coiners hammered out groschen all day for several centuries. Many went deaf in the process.

The Italian Court is also the site of a former “royal residence” established by another King Wenceslas (the IV) in the beginning of the 15th century. Note the effigy of a miner in the middle of the courtyard. You will find miners depicted all over Kutná Hora.

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Chapel window of the inner courtyard of the Italian Court

Effigy of a miner in the inner courtyard of the Italian Court

Later a second mint was established in the Hradek, which now houses the Czech Museum of Silver that also offers tours of an abandoned medieval mine shaft. The mine tour is not for the faint of heart, though, as its website makes clear:

“Entry into the mine is not recommended for persons suffering from claustrophobia, epilepsy and poor health and is prohibited for women in advanced stages of pregnancy.”

Brave visitors heading to a tour of Kutná Hora's abandoned mine shaft.

Boom and Bust

Needless to say, Kutná Hora grew very wealthy as a result of the silver and currency. But prior to discovering the silver, there was practically nothing in Kutná Hora or its surroundings, so the discovery of silver and the subsequent minting of money meant that Kutná Hora is truly a rags-to-riches town. And its architecture and size reflect that. And not only did Kutná Hora boom, but the whole kingdom of Bohemia did, too: The wealth created by Kutná Hora’s mining helped fund much of the grand architecture created in Prague in the 14th century, when King Charles IV ascended to thrown.

Then, in the 16th century, the silver ran out and the town went bust.

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What Makes Kutná Hora Unique?

Kutná Hora’s architectural development went bust, too. As we’ll see, that fact is abundantly clear today. So, two factors – the quick growth out of nothing and then the sudden bust – are what make Kutná Hora unique among Czech towns.

Because there was nothing in Kutná Hora before the silver was discovered, its historic buildings and roads are relatively small compared to other Czech towns of its size. And because of the sudden and unusually large boom in wealth, its buildings are “fancier” than in other towns of its size. But the buildings are also “fancier” than other buildings of their size in other towns.

So there’s a particular incongruence to the look of Kutná Hora that you won’t find elsewhere: Buildings that are too small for how fancy and decorative they are, and streets that are too small for how fancy the buildings are.

"New Rich" fancy?

So as you’re walking around Kutná Hora, you’ll likely be struck with the impression that it’s too fancy for how small it is. The buildings in any other Czech town with this level of fanciness would bigger than those Kutná Hora, as the wealth that created the buildings would have also affected their size. But because Kutná Hora got rich quickly from its founding, the town and buildings were still at the beginning “village” stage - and size - when the town got rich and started to go fancy.

By the same token, other Czech towns of a similar size to Kutná Hora that grew organically from their village origins but that had average – rather than exceptional – wealth, will have buildings that are actually bigger than Kutná Hora’s but that at the same time are much plainer.

Elaborate decoration on a Kutná Hora house

Kutná Hora Went Broke, but Not Baroque

Also, its historic architecture simply “stops” with the Renaissance style, which in the Czech lands was prevalent in the 16th century, the century when Kutná Hora’s mines gave out.

Almost everywhere else in the current-day Czech Republic got bathed in Baroque architecture as part of the Counter-Reformation, but not Kutná Hora. There are only a couple of Baroque structures of significance here: The former Jesuit college now housing the GASK art gallery, and the Plague column on Šultysova Street. Visiting almost any destination in the Czech Republic means you’re going to be overwhelmed with an abundance of intense and at times over-the-top Baroque architecture, but Kutná Hora’s architecture is mostly Gothic and Renaissance.

Early 18th-century Baroque plague column

Mid 17th-century Baroque dome of the Jesuit monastery

St. Barbora

No more splendid, unique and eye-pleasing example of Gothic architecture can be found in Kutná Hora – or probably anywhere in the Czech Republic, actually – than St. Barbora’s Cathedral. It was founded by miners in the late 14th century, who dedicated it to Barbora, as she was the patron saint for those who face sudden death, as the miners often did: Up to five of them a day died in Kutná Hora's mines.

Initial work on the church was done by King Charles’ court architect Peter Parler and his sons, but successive court architects Mathias Rejsek and Benedikt Reid later took up the reins. Rejsek and Reid turned Barbora into an eye-poppingly unique example of the Gothic style – and the fact that it is located in such a small, sleepy town in the middle of the Czech Republic makes it stand out all the more. I am purposely NOT posting a picture of the entire exterior of the church, as I hope that (if you don’t peak at other sources) you will visit and get a special “wow” moment when you see it for the first time.

But the interior is also beautiful, as you can see below.

Interior of St. Barbora's Cathedral showing a side aisle

St. James

This Gothic church, begun in 1330, is even older than Barbora, and its earlier, and therefore simpler, ribbing and vaulting are also pleasing to the eye – especially now that it’s been lovingly restored. Comparing the two churches provides a good opportunity to see the progression of the Gothic style as time passed.

Note that James’ 270-foot tower leans slightly. Leaning buildings are another unique feature of Kutná Hora that is virtually absent elsewhere in the Czech Republic, as there are no fault lines here. But the settling of mines means that you can spot several examples in Kutná Hora.

View of the eastern end (apse) of St. James Church

Lunch Break

You’ll no doubt work up an appetite and thirst when seeing all these sights, and fortunately Kutná Hora doesn’t disappoint when it comes to food, either. My favorite spot is Dačický Restaurant. In the winter it offers a cozy room with a fireplace that looks almost like a medieval tavern, and in warmer months you can dine outdoors in their lovely (and very large) courtyard garden with a view of the tower of St. James Church. But even given all of that, the best thing about Dačický is the food: It's simply delicious and is lovingly prepared and served by the friendly staff and members of the family that owns and runs this place.

Delicious local brew at Dačický Restaurant

The Stone House and The Stone Fountain

While Kutná Hora isn’t lacking in unique architecture it does lack unique names. The two structures pictured below are examples of this. But they are a pleasure to behold. I especially love the Stone Fountain, standing as it does in the middle of the street with cars going around it like a mini version of the Colosseum in Rome. Both it and the Stone House are covered in intricate carving in the Ornate Gothic style.

And the unoriginally-named “Avenue of Statues” fits in this category, too, for it is just an avenue lined with statues. But its effect is impressive - it looks like a bridge similar to Prague’s famous statue-lined Charles Bridge, which was the intent.

Avenue of Statues with the former Jesuit college on the left

Not far from the Stone House you’ll find the mayor’s residence with a fabulous carved stone Renaissance-style entry that leans fabulously. Some of the houses opposite it on Šultysova Street reveal elements of their Gothic origins, while the previously mentioned Plague Column in the center pays homage to the town’s miners, as do so many structures here. Note the four miners around the base of the structure holding plaques with Latin inscriptions meant to ward off the disease.

The Mayor's residence with a beautifully carved leaning door.

Moving down to Palackého Náměstí we’ll find three examples of beautiful Renaissance houses. The tourist information center is on nearby Kollárova Street.

Renaissance houses on Palackého Náměstí

Treasure in a Nearby Village

Now its time to leave the city behind and head to the nearby village of Sedlec where the famous (infamous?) “Bone Church” can be found. But that’s not all – the tiny village of Sedlec is also home to a stunningly large Gothic church, the Cathedral of Assumption of Our Lady and St. John the Baptist. The present-day structure replaces the original Romanesque church founded in the 12th century by Cistercian monks who had made their way here from France.

The Cistercians wanted their own French Gothic Cathedral, and the size of this building is hard to comprehend (the nave is three times taller than it is wide), and its presence in such a small municipality even harder. But it is perhaps the “Baroque Gothic” redo in the 18th century of the church’s interior by renowned master architect Jan Blažej Santini that is most impressive. Note how Santini’s ribbing in the nave builds on Reid’s handiwork in St. Barbora’s.

Ribs and vaulting by architect Jan Santini

Entrance to the church with characteristic Santini design

The Bone Church

From here it is just a short walk across the main road to the so-called Bone Church. In fact, it’s an ossuary, the name for a place for storing human bones. The story goes that an abbot from the nearby church mentioned above visited the Holy Land and brought dirt back with him that he sprinkled on the church’s cemetery grounds. Word of the anointed dirt got around, and before long everyone in the vicinity wanted to be buried here.

The Plague came and filled the cemetery to the max, so it was decided that something had to be done. In the 16th century, a half-blind monk from the nearby Cistertian monastery was tasked with digging up the bodies, cleaning the bones and storing them in the Sedlec Ossuary (as it is officially known) located in the crypt of All Saints’ Chapel (note that it leans, too). Later, Santini worked his magic on the ossuary as well, and you’ll see his telltale signs in the ribs of the vaulting.

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In the 19th century, a local woodworker was hired to arrange the bones into patterns, and the present-day interior was created. Here you’ll find bones of 40,000 people arranged into four Baroque “bells,” several chalices, a remarkably accurate replica of the Schwarzenberg family crest, and a chandelier that includes every bone of the human body at least once. The woodworker, František Rint, proudly signed his name in bones on the wall on the right just at the bottom of the stairs as you enter.

The All Saints' Chapel containing the Sedlec Ossuary. Note the leaning facade.

Confronted with these objects in familiar shapes, it’s easy to lose site of the fact that this is the resting place for thousands of people. In fact, many tourists visit “Kutná Hora” seeing only this site and then head back to Prague, skipping the town entirely. Not only is that a missed opportunity, but the “bone church” unfortunately had taken on a carnival-like atmosphere, losing site of its purpose and meaning.

To combat this, the management of the site has now posted signs requesting that visitors keep quiet when visiting the ossuary (they haven’t demanded total silence yet), and you’ll be quickly reprimanded if you speak loudly and especially if you laugh. And taking photos inside the monument is no longer allowed. Yes, even selfies in here had become quite popular before the ban. Perhaps that was the final straw on photos. While I do have some photos of my own from when taking them was permitted, and they are available online, I have decided not to post any here out of respect for those whose bones are there and out of respect of the site's new policy. But I do hope that you will see it in person.

Kutná Hora's main train station

At this point it’s time for you to return to the train station for your train back to Prague (or get in your car if you have one). From the ossauary the station is just an eight-minute walk, which is not a bad option if it’s not raining.

Book Your Kutná Hora Tour

To sum up, if your visit to Prague allows time for a day trip, put Kutná Hora on your list. And if you’re interested in doing a tour there with me, please get in touch!

Be sure to pick up one of my guidebooks if you're headed to Prague! They're all available in both Kindle and paperback formats, and the Kindle versions will work on your phone!

]]><![CDATA[ČERVENÝ JELEN - A Unique Place on the Prague Dining Scene]]>Tue, 16 May 2023 08:32:18 GMThttps://www.exclusivepraguetours.com/prague-blog/cerveny-jelen-a-unique-place-on-the-prague-dining-scene

The interior of Červený Jelen restaurant

New restaurants open in Prague all the time, and though I'm a major foodie, it's impossible for me to try them all. Then the pandemic really put a dent in my dining lifestyle. But one new restaurant especially caught my eye – perhaps it was the very big, very red stag suspended between two buildings at the entrance to an alley near Prague’s Marriott Hotel – a location I pass by often. But I never got a chance to try it before things shut down. I did peer inside the windows once, though, as the red sculpture had drawn me in, but I never made it there for a meal. I put it on my list of places to try, though.

When travel to Prague finally began to resume, a friend from Switzerland who used to live in Prague visited, and we met for lunch at one of our favorite places, an old standby that we both love. She had already been in Prague for a few days when we met, so she’d been trying some of the many new restaurants that had appeared since she’d moved away. When we sat down for lunch at the old standby, we started talking about restaurants, and out of the blue she asked, “Have you been to Červený Jelen?” “No,” I said, “but it’s on my list.” She then added: “It’s great.” This only confirmed my hunch that it must be a pretty good place and moved it to the top of my list.

An Impressively Large Space

So I finally did. Entering the restaurant, one is immediately impressed with the size of the space: It’s cavernous. Waiters in white shirts and servers dressed in black were buzzing around serving a crowd that was impressive in that it filled such a large space, which also included an open-style kitchen and a bar area where drinks were prepared and beer was poured.

Skylight over the dining space in Červený Jelen restaurant

Though many Prague restaurants use an open-style kitchen these days, there was something unique about the size, layout and décor of Červený Jelen. While the color scheme naturally contains red, overall the colors were muted – a unique palette in new Prague eateries. The décor is simple while managing to be modern and stylish at the same time. I’d never been in a place quite like it in Prague.

I wasn’t surprised to learn when I did some research later that this space was originally designed as a bank in a Cubist-Modernist style by famous Czech architect Josef Gočár during former Czechoslovakia’s so-called “First Republic,” its heyday between the World Wars. The building’s transformation into a modern dining space only adds to the uniqueness of the interior and atmosphere.

Červený Jelen's open kitchen

One thing that usually goes with a space so large, however, is noise. The volume level in Červený Jelen (the name means “Red Stag”) was quite high, but surprisingly it was not a problem: it actually was just right for the space and was not grating at all. Rather, it reminds the dinner that a good time is being had by all. That said, while this would tend to put Červený Jelen in a category for a young crowd, it is certainly suitable for older diners as well. Though the crowd on the night I visited was mostly young, there were diners of other ages there, too.

Variety in All Things: Food, Wine and Price

My dining companion and I were led to our table and given menus. We spent a few minutes taking it all in – the space, the atmosphere, the menu – and before long our waiter appeared and asked if we’d like to order something to drink. Our waiter took good care of us during our meal: he was knowledgeable, friendly and helpful, and despite the filled to (almost) capacity crowd and the large number of guests and tables he was serving, managed to be there when we needed him.

One of the first things I noted was how varied the menu is (even though it’s heavy on meat, which is fine by me!). As I’d never been there, nor had I seen the menu (I didn’t “peek” online beforehand), this meant it took me some time to get a sense of the cuisine and what I wanted to have.

The variations in the menu come not just from the different items on offer, but also from the fact that many of them are also offered in small, interesting combinations, presumably for people like me who either want to try everything or have trouble making up their minds!

The menu has a very wide price range, too, which was also quite new to me in Prague and a nice touch: It makes Červený Jelen a place for everybody with something for everybody. So you can spend the equivalent of $130 (CZK 2900) on Wagyu tenderloin or a budget-friendly $15 (CZK 345) on a braised deer leg. The menu’s price range explains why such a young crowd could enjoy it, too.

And they serve lots of varieties of beer which also, no doubt, appeals to the young crowd. Importantly, Červený Jelen has a respectable wine list (including lots of by-the-glass offerings) to go with all the wonderful steaks and other meats they serve.

A Meat Lover’s Paradise

Although vegetarian dishes are available, the menu is mostly about meat. To start, my dining companion and I had the wild boar salsiccia (Italian sausage) with black truffle and the duck liver pate with sea buckthorn jelly. The pate was gentle and made an interesting taste combination with the jelly. The salsiccia was simply delicious: The next time I go to Červený Jelen, I will have it for my main dish. It was fresh and incredibly tasty.

Delicious duck liver pate

Our waiter had recommended a glass of Czech white Palava wine to go with our starters. The dry freshness of the wine complimented the rich flavors of the starters well.

We waited until after our first course to decide on our main courses, and the waiter gave us all the time – and help – we needed. We both ordered different steaks from Argentina as main dishes, and both were cooked to (medium) perfection, just as we had ordered. Too many Prague eateries believe that medium is more done than it should be, but not Červený Jelen.

An Award-Winning Chef

That's a good thing because Červený Jelen also serves Wagyu beef, and it would be a shame indeed to overcook such a piece of meat. Wagyu is a breed of cattle native to Japan, and the beef is renowned for being highly marbled. Executive chef Marek Fichtner's training has obviously prepared him for the role of bringing superbly cooked cuts of meat to Prague. It’s not a surprise that he was awarded the “Golden Chef” award in 2022.

Perfectly cooked Argentine tenderloin at Červený Jelen

Of course, a cut of Wagyu will set your wallet back a bit, but if you can handle it, go for it. Otherwise, Červený Jelen also has great cuts of meat from all over the world, which, while pricey, are much more affordable: Argentina, Uruguay, the United States, New Zealand, Germany, Spain and, of course, the Czech Republic.

Fine Wine and More

Our knowledgeable waiter recommended two different excellent wines to go with our different Argentine steaks – an Italian red for my tenderloin and a French red for her flap steak. Both wines were fabulous.

Červený Jelen's smoked mashed potatoes

While all orders from the grill come with a serving of roasted carrots, potatoes and snap peas, Červený Jelen’s menu also offers an interesting array of sides (which the menu notes are all vegetarian). Even though we knew our steaks with the included sides would be more than enough food, we couldn’t resist trying the smoked mashed potatoes with garlic confit and the grilled green asparagus with butter crumble and egg! Both were not only good but introduced each of us to interesting new flavors. The butter crumble on the asparagus was especially interesting and good. The included sides were standard fare. We were tempted by the extra side of bok choy, as well, but … we had to leave room for dessert, of course!

The Desserts Take the Cake

Next it was time for one of my favorite parts of any meal: dessert and coffee, and this part "took the cake," so to speak. Looking at the descriptions of the desserts on the menu, it was hard to choose one because they all sounded not only delicious but interesting. We asked the waiter for advice, and he said they were all good! But he did name his three favorites, two of which were my top picks, and he also added that the best way to pick one would be to look at them in the dessert case.

So, I had a look, but this only made my decision more difficult, as I wanted them all! We finally decided on the dark chocolate beer cake for me and the pistachio profiterole for my friend. I also ordered an expresso.

The desserts were simply fantastic. The chocolate cake was dark, dense and rich. It was so thick and creamy that it was almost like a flourless cake. But the unique combination of flavors in the profiterole stole the show. It’s hard to describe the unique burst of flavor that the combination of the salty pistachio in the sweet cream filling made. If you go to Červený Jelen, you must order it!

When my espresso arrived, I could tell immediately that it was of good quality by the color and foam on top. A closer look at the logo on the cup confirmed this, as it was a good brand that I recognized. This is an important touch, as too many restaurants skimp on their brand of coffee, or they don’t know better. But Červený Jelen got it right. It was also prepared well and served hot with a bit of steamed milk on the side. A nice touch was a shot of Bailey’s that came with it.

Overall, I was very pleased and very impressed with Červený Jelen – its atmosphere, food, décor and staff. I’m really happy that I finally got to try it, and it’s wonderful to have a new – and unique – restaurant on Prague’s already wonderful but ever improving dining scene. I will definitely go back!

THE WRITER IS THE AUTHOR OF PRAGUE RESTAURANT GUIDE: FROM GOULASH TO GOURMET

Available in both paperback and Kindle editions on Amazon.com

Contact the author: If you would like more information on Červený Jelen or dining in Prague, please contact me. I can help you plan your dining experience when you visit!

]]><![CDATA[Prague’s Italian Quarter]]>Tue, 02 May 2023 15:24:25 GMThttps://www.exclusivepraguetours.com/prague-blog/pragues-italian-quarter

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You’ve heard of Prague’s Jewish Quarter, and you’ve probably heard of the Lesser Quarter or the Little Quarter (Mala Strana), but I’ll bet you didn’t know that Prague also has an Italian Quarter. While not an official “town” like the others…

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...the Italian Quarter is nontheless a distinct place that has been in existence since the 16th century. Nestled on the hill between the Mala Strana and Prague Castle, the Italian Quarter has now blended in to a large extent with its surrounding town. But it still retains some of its uniqueness, thanks to its architecture and streets.

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Mix and match colors

One thing that's unique to the Italian Quarter is the use of brighter colors than those found in other parts of Prague. The colors are more varied, as well, as shown below.

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Catholic religious symbols also abound in the quarter in a greater concentration than elsewhere, as can be seen in the next photo gallery.

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How Did the Italian Quarter Come Into Being?

In the 16th century, the Renaissance was just reaching Central Europe and the Czech lands (then part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire), and Emperor Rudolf, Hapsburg King, had also come to Prague. His Austrian predecessors had maintained their principal residence in Vienna, but Rudolf, who was unique in many ways, decided he wanted to live in Prague. So he moved himself and the seat of Austrian power into Prague Castle for the duration of his reign.

Holy Roman Emperor

In addition to being the Austrian King, Rudolf was elected Holy Roman Emperor, as well. So, for the second time in its history, Prague was not only the capital of Bohemia (the traditional Czech lands and now a region of the Czech Republic), but it was also the capital of the Holy Roman Empire. The first time was in the 14th century under King Charles IV, the Czech King who was also elected Holy Roman Emperor.

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An Art Lover

Rudolf was known as a purveyor of many things, including art, music, astronomy and even alchemy. There's even an Alchymist Hotel (pictured below) in the Italian Quarter - a nod to Rudolf no doubt - as well as an alchemist museum. As King and Holy Roman Emperor, Rudolf was, naturally, very wealthy, and he spent generously on his pet projects. When word of Rudolf's patronage got around Europe, lots of interesting and talented people flocked to Prague, among them Tycho Brahe and his apprentice, Johannes Kepler. But I digress….

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Like most kings, Rudolf wanted to put his stamp on Prague Castle, and he did this with many new structures and additions to old ones. But he also put his mark on the greater city of Prague. More than just a desire, though, this was also somewhat of a necessity: much of the Mala Strana and some of Prague Castle had been destroyed in a great fire in 1541.

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The Renaissance Comes to Prague (Finally)

So Rudolf set about creating new structures in the new style in the Czech lands: Renaissance. The Renaissance style had already been used in Italy in the previous century, but Central Europe held on to the Gothic style longer than Southern Europe did. So Renaissance was the style of choice when Rudolf began his Prague redo. The house in the picture below is covered in sgraffito, a Renaissance-era style. However, the decoration on this particular house is not original and might be just a nod to the Italian Quarter's beginnings. In any case, it's beautiful.

As the 16th century turned into the 17th, the style in Prague changed, too - into the Baroque, especially after the Thirty Years’ War. And the Italian Quarter is no exception. Much of what you will find there now is in the Baroque style.

Sgraffito-covered-house-Prague-Italian-Quarter

Sgraffito-covered house in Prague's Italian Quarter.

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And because Italy had lots of experience with the Renaissance style whereas the Czechs and Germans didn’t, Rudolf brought in Italian architects, builders and artisans (mostly bricklayers, stone cutters and stucco artists) to do the work. They settled in the part of Prague that is now known as the Italian Quarter and which is the subject of this post.

The location they chose might have had to do with its proximity to Rudolf (up at the Castle above it) and to the Mala Strana which needed lots of reconstruction and rebuilding after the fire. In any case, apparently Italian surnames could be found on doorbells here until the time of the Velvet Revolution. And below you'll see the name "Santini," a master architect who was born in the quarter, the son of an Italian builder. The plaque notes where Jan Santini was buried - near the former church of St. John the Baptist, the footprint of which, in a typical Santini star pattern, is marked in the cobblestones of the sidewalk.

Footprint-of-Santini-church-Prague-Italian-Quarter

In settling in this quarter, the Italians set about making it their home. As a result, the architecture in the Italian Quarter has a distinctly, if only slightly, Italian feel. It's architecture is definitely different from that in any of Prague's other areas. Probably owing to its being just a “settlement” initially, and on a rather steep hill, the streets are very narrow and jammed together. It’s hard to imagine even a horse an carriage getting through some of them, let alone today’s cars. Pictured below are a few examples.

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Something a Little Different

Walking through these streets and looking at the many small houses, you can get the feel of being on a side street in Rome or some other Italian city. You can definitely get the feeling that you are not in Prague, even if you can’t quite imagine where you are. You can even find grape vines here! And it's fitting that the Italian Cultural Institute is located here, as well, as you can see in the gallery below.

Italian-atmosphere-Prague-Italian-Quarter

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Get Off the Beaten Path

This quarter is unique, too, in that many of its streets are still marked in both German and Czech. Below are a couple of examples.

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Today's Italian Quarter also has some uniquely quirky and charming shops and boutique hotels. And it's definitely one of the most romantic parts of Prague.

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If time allows it on your visit, I encourage you to take a stroll through this unique - and not so well known - part of Prague. It’s not only charming, but the tourists haven’t discovered it either (yet!). It will get you off the beaten path - and it’s very romantic, too!

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Happy travels!

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]]><![CDATA[Happy Easter and Happy Passover From Prague]]>Thu, 06 Apr 2023 15:30:51 GMThttps://www.exclusivepraguetours.com/prague-blog/happy-easter-and-happy-passover-from-prague

Spring is Springing!

Spring is springing in Prague, and we’re all itching to get out after a very long, very cold and very gray winter here.

Easter weekend has always been a big deal in the Czech Republic, if not so much for the religious significance as the beginning of spring, of rebirth and renewal after the dark days of winter and a return to more light, longer days and weekends at the cottage.

The "Real" Easter?

Easter Monday (as the Czechs say, the “real” Easter, for on the third day, He rose again according to Scripture), has always been a state holiday here. So naturally with the weather warming up, it has been a tradition to go somewhere on Easter weekend – either to the near abroad or to one’s cottage – to enjoy the great outdoors again - finally.

And a few years ago, Good Friday was made an official holiday, too, so now it’s a four-day weekend, and – well, why not take Thursday off, too?! It’s a beautiful day today, as the picture above taken this morning in my neighborhood shows, and the streets and sidewalks are also showing all the signs more typical of a Prague summer weekend – they have emptied out.

Passover Will Be Celebrated in Prague, Too

Yesterday also marked the start of Passover, and that holiday, too, will be celebrated by many of us. Happily, it will also be celebrated by some here in Prague, as well, as this country’s Jewish community strives to revive itself – a kind of rebirth for which Passover is also a symbol.

Meanwhile on Earth 1

And, on an more earthly level, I’m of course hoping for the renewal of the tourist season as I look forward to welcoming more visitors to Prague and introducing them to this wonderful city!

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]]><![CDATA[Prague Day Trips – Hradec Králové]]>Tue, 07 Feb 2023 12:23:11 GMThttps://www.exclusivepraguetours.com/prague-blog/prague-day-trips-hradec-kralove

For those of you who follow this blog, you’ll know that travel within the Czech Republic has become a renewed interest of mine, brought on out of necessity in the days of the Covid shutdown. And before 2022 ended, I managed to squeeze in one more day trip – this time to Hradec Králové.

A Dowry Town?

Hradec Kralove sits at the confluence of the Elbe and Orlice rivers. The name literally means “queen’s castle,” a so-called “dowry town” dating to at least as early as the 11th century. After much damage in the both the Thirty Years’ War and the War of Austrian Succession, Emperor Josef II turned the town into a fortress, the remnants of which can still be seen today.

The impetus for my trip came from the Facebook post of a good friend who had just completed a photography course there, and her class was having an exhibition of their works at a local gallery. Previously I had seen some of the photos she posted from her random walks around Hradec Králové during her frequent trips there to participate in the course. The few shots of the town I saw looked intriguing architecturally, so a day trip to see the exhibition combined with an exploration of the historical center seemed like a good idea. But my friend’s Facebook photos did not prepare me for the abundance of architectural beauty I would encounter on my trip.

"Upon arriving my first thought was, 'Why had I never been to Hradec Králové before?'”

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Upon arriving my first thought was, ”Why had I never been to Hradec Králové before?” And I also wondered why I had never heard more about it.

Actually, I had driven through it many times in the 1990s when I was working on a financing project at a steel mill in the city of Ostrava, which lies beyond Hradec Králové to the east. But I had never stopped. And I suppose I drove through the outskirts at such an angle that the gem of a historical town center that lay just beyond the main thoroughfares I was traversing was blocked from my view. Soon after arriving at the train station, however, I found out what I had missed. (The train station itself is a nice early modern specimen.)

From the station I took the bus that my public transport app said would get me near the Research Library where the exhibition was being held. On the way, I was struck by stunning 20th-century architecture that was typical of Central Europe and of the Czech Republic in particular, architecture that I just love and with which I am fascinated. But when the bus deposited me at my destination stop, I turned around and was stunned at what stood at the top of a hill reinforced by towering town walls.

Remnants of defense walls in Hradec Kralove

Stunning spires atop defense walls in Hradec Kralove

As usual, I immediately started taking photos, but I needed to make my way to the exhibition (which was in the opposite direction) if I was going to have time to see it and the town and have lunch – all in time to catch my train back to Prague. So, I headed south across the river to the library, passing more intriguing architecture from the 19th and 20th centuries along the way, including the Hučák power plant and the Neo-Renaissance Bishop's High School pictured below.

Bishop's High School in Hradec Kralove

X Marks the Spot

The library itself was a quite new (2008) modern fascination with a footprint in the shape of a giant “X,” and the early 20th-century building across the street from it was striking in its own way. A brochure from a later visit to the tourist center confirmed that it was a historical landmark: The Technical College by the architect Josef Gočár, one of the Czech Republic's most famous.

The Research Library in Hradec Králové (Studijní a vědecká knihovna v Hradci Králové)

After seeing the exhibition, which was quite nice (and briefly exploring the concrete labyrinth that was the library’s staircase), I headed to town, which was now my main goal. Returning to the bus stop, Google Maps pointed me straight to the historical center’s main square – but how? Google was sending me right through that defense wall I had encountered earlier.

The Bono Publico in Hradec Kralove

I double-checked the map, but I couldn’t see a road or lane… then I saw an opening through which I could see a few stairs. Could that be it? I started up a few and looked for a sign. My phone’s GPS said I was going the right way.

A Stairway to Heaven

The stairway seemed to go straight up to heaven (I’m not kidding), and its renovated pristine white walls and arches were backlit with a soft pink glow. And then I noticed soft music. There was a couple descending from heaven, and I thought, “Is it their phone? Is that their ringtone?” It was classical music, and as they were quite young, I surmised that it was unlikely their ringtone. They approached and passed me – no, it wasn’t their phone. The music was still there, and I realized it was being pumped into the arched stairwell. How cool! It’s hard to express the feeling and atmosphere that the long, white, backlit-with-color, ascending staircase combined with the music created.

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Finally nearing the top – and finally seeing some light at the end of the tunnel – I noticed a plaque to the left. Its digital display indicated the particular piece of music that was playing, as well as the composer.

Exit from the Bono Publico in Hradec Kralove

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Emerging from the staircase, I tumbled onto an immense square, appropriately named “Great Square” (Velké Náměstí). Turning left (west) where I knew I should find the soaring spires I had seen when I exited the bus earlier, I saw a beautiful sight, silhouetted by a low December sun. They did not disappoint. The buildings were stunning.

The stunning silhouette of spires in Hradec Kralove

It was a beautiful view and reminded me of the photos my friend had taken the previous December when the Christmas markets were up, as they were again now. My phone’s map said the buildings are the 16th-century White Tower (Bílá Věž – the tallest spire in the city) and the Cathedral of the Holy Spirit (Katedrála Svatého Ducha) dating to the 15th century. The cluster of buildings with their stunning, mostly Gothic, architecture replete with staggering spires was almost breathtaking. I loved it!

Art Nouveau and Baroque architecture in Hradec Kralove

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And the whole square was amazing, especially on such a sunny day with the angle of the low winter sun creating amazing light and shadows on the square and its buildings. I took (as usual) too many photos of the buildings and their spires and then walked east along the square. I found myself fascinated with the structures along the other end, too, and was also intrigued by many of the shops. But there wasn’t time for shopping today, so I vowed to return.

The architecture on the eastern end of the square covered many centuries and styles, from Baroque to Art Nouveau and a bit of Art Deco, too. And there’s so much of it all.

Charming Side Streets

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Shooting off of the square are charming side streets, but my short stay didn’t allow me to roam many of them – so I had to choose wisely. As my plan was to have lunch at a recommended restaurant, I picked one of the two streets that would get me there most directly from where I was standing, and the charm and style flowed down that street as well. Following the map, I finally spotted my dining destination in the corner of the courtyard of what looks like a former palace.

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Walking in, the place looked empty – until I spotted an enclosed terrace off of the back, which was full of people, bustling with the sounds of conversation and of cutlery encountering plates and glasses clinking. The décor was nice and the views were stunning – looking out over a vast park below the city walls atop which the restaurant stood.

Christmas decoration and wine at Satlava Restaurant in Hradec Kralove

I asked for a table and was seated at one of only two empty ones left on the terrace. The menu was intriguing, and the waiter recommended a good red wine to go with my chosen dish. The food was delicious and expertly prepared. And the prices were a bargain compared to Prague’s. The service was professional and friendly, too.

Dessert at Satlava Restaurant in Hradec Kralove

Wine at Satlava Restaurant in Hradec Kralove

Eager to pay the bill, I didn’t have much time before my train back to Prague, and I had to figure out where to get a bus back to the station from where I’d likely end up after completing my planned walk through the town. (I also had not much battery left in my phone after taking so many photos and using maps and GPS more than I normally do. Lesson: Don’t forget your power banks when traveling!) Still, I hoped to be able to try at least one of the many recommended cafes and to get to the tourist information office, as well.

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Leaving the restaurant, I first turned left when exiting the courtyard to have a quick look at a square a little further to the east before heading back to the main square and then moving toward those amazing Gothic buildings on its west end and the station beyond. Malé Náměstí (Little Square) is charming and is filled with more intriguing architecture to explore when I return.

Doing a 180, I passed the restaurant again and this time chose a different side street that would return me to the large square (Velké Náměstí), but not before passing it to see the Klicper Theater (Klicperovo Divadlo) built in the 1880s in the Neo-Renaissance style. I’m glad I did.

The Klicper Theater (Klicperovo Divadlo) in Hradec Kralove

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Finally heading down Klicperova Street, I was approaching Velké Náměstí when another building caught my eye – the Gallery of Modern Art - and I later learned that it, too, is on the city’s list of prominent historical buildings. Opposite it was the façade of an Art Deco building, while across the square from each was the beautiful Baroque church I had seen earlier.

The Gallery of Modern Art in Hradec Kralove

Conglomeration of architecture in Hradec Kralove

Facade of the Gallery of Modern Art in Hradec Kralove

Sunlight on the Gallery of Modern Art and an Art Deco building in Hradec Kralove

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Soon I was back on the large square, this time with different light and shadow angles, for the sun moves very quickly indeed when you are so far north on the globe, and especially at the time of year when daylight lasts only eight hours. The yellow façade of the Church of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary (Kostel Nanebevzetí Panny Marie) caught my eye – again – this time looking almost like a different structure from when I had seen it before lunch due to the change in light.

Making my way down the square, I was drawn to the row houses lining the northern side of its western end as I approached the conglomeration of Gothic and Baroque spires that were the main attraction.

Sunlight on row houses on "Great Square" (Velké Náměstí) in Hradec Kralove

The fountain (kašna) on the Great Square

Sunlight on "Great Square" (Velké Náměstí) in Hradec Kralove

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Of course, the buildings with spires that had drawn me to the town when I saw my friend's photo and when I got of the bus in the morning were stunning, but not quite as much up close as they were from a distance when their outline makes a more striking impression. My phone battery was almost gone, too, so I had to ease up on the photos so that I had enough charge to navigate my way to the bus and train station. But sometimes not taking photos allows one to soak in more, so I walked around the buildings – and found yet more charming streets behind them. But I did get a few shots in late afternoon shadow:

Stunning spires of the White Tower and the Cathedral of the Holy Spirit in Hradec Kralove

Continuing further west from the historical city center to make my way to where my bus stop should be I noticed a small kiosk selling coffee from one of the cafes that had been recommended. Of course I had to try it! It was delicious, and realizing that I had half an hour before I needed to get the bus to the station, I asked for directions to the tourist office, which the map said should be nearby.

Indeed it was – just a couple of blocks away, and I had just enough time to pick up a few brochures. It then became clear that Hradec Králové is not only historic, but following the industrialization of the late 19th century, it went through an early 20th-century rebuilding that became a showcase for that Central European modern architecture I mentioned earlier and included the works I had noticed earlier. And the works were by some of my favorite Czech architects from that period that you can find in Prague also.

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The informational brochures made it clear that I had just scratched the surface of the city’s modern architecture, for these notable works sprawled out far beyond the historical center where I had spent most of my day – indeed one of the most significant of that era’s buildings, the East Bohemian Museum designed by Jan Kotěra, stood opposite the tourist information center, and it did not escape my attention when I passed it. Kotěra’s works are among my favorites in Prague.

I was sad to leave but my time in Hradec Králové had run out. I headed back to the bus stop and made my way to the train station, noticing some quite impressive 21st-century buildings on that ride also. It seems that Hradec Králové is a city that is going through another rebuilding and revival of sorts, and I definitely plan to come back and spend more time.

I’m also thinking of adding it to my tour offerings, so if you’re interested in an off-the-beaten-path adventure, let me know!

]]><![CDATA[Prague: Great Reads for the Traveler on your list!]]>Wed, 30 Nov 2022 17:14:59 GMThttps://www.exclusivepraguetours.com/prague-blog/prague-great-reads-for-the-traveler-on-your-list

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If you're like me, you enjoy not only traveling but also reading about the places you'd like to visit (either before, during or after your trip), and in some cases when you don't even visit at all!. So, as the Holiday Season approaches, I've put together a list of some great reads on Prague for the traveler on your Christmas or Hanukkah list!

Found at a Bookstore in Prague

I recently stopped by Shakespeare & Sons English language bookshop in Prague. Nestled near the Charles Bridge in the Mala Strana (Lesser Quarter), it is one of my favorite bookshops in town. I saw some familiar titles and a few new ones. I did a bit of research, and they all seem worth your time:

Prague Stories - a new collection of Fiction and non-fiction stories

Czech Cookbook: Recipes and Stories Volume I

The Assassination of Reinhard Heydrich - Recommended book about the Czech Republic and WWII

Einstein in Bohemia and Mozart in Prague - recommended books on Prague

1. Prague Stories

Published just over two years ago, Prague Stories is a rich collection of both fiction and non-fiction stories about Prague by local and international authors. In this carefully curated collection, Franz Kafka, Ivan Klima and Madeleine Albright (among others) appear.

2. Prague Winter

Albright's own Prague Winter is another title I recommend. Born in Prague the daughter of a diplomat, she spent the war (WWII) years in England. After the communist takeover of former Czechoslovakia, she and her family emigrated to the U.S., where she eventually became Secretary of State. It was at the time of her appointment to that position that she discovered her Jewish heritage. This is a very interesting read.

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3. Czech Cookbook: Recipes and Stories

If you like to cook - or even if you're just interested in Czech food - I highly recommend that you check out Kristyna Koutna's wonderful book, called simply, Czech Cookbook. Kristyna knows everything about Czech food, and she's made it all, and her book is filled with wonderful photos of dozens of dishes. And the best part is: It's made for English-speaking cooks and includes both imperial and metric measurements.

4. Czech Cookbook: Christmas Baking

And since it's the Holidays... you might like to know that Kristyna Koutna has also published a cookbook focused on Czech Christmas baking. It's available in Kindle format only, but Czech Christmas cookies are a delicious tradition, so it might be worth taking a look at this book!

5. Einstein in Bohemia

Having come out earlier this year, Einstein in Bohemia has been on my radar since I saw it in another Prague bookstore shortly after its release. You might not know that Albert Einstein lived in Prague for almost two years, teaching at Charles University. In this work, Professor Michael Gordin explores how the city of Prague touched Einstein and how he, in turn, impacted it.

6. Mozart in Prague

Like Einstein in Bohemia, Mozart in Prague has also been on my radar ever since I was doing research for one of my books in which I speak about some of the famous composer's visits to Prague. I was surprised at the depth of detail contained in this book about both Mozart's time here and the Czechs' relationship to his music and his relationship to them. This is a must-read for Mozart lovers.

The movie "Amadeus," which was loosely based on Mozart's life and rivalry with composer Antonio Salieri, was filmed almost entirely in Prague. It's worth a look to see the city's beauty which was evident even during communist times, plus it's a fabulous film!

7. The Assassination of Reinhard Heydrich

A seminal event in WWII, the assassination of Reinhard Heydrich took place in Prague in 1942 at the hands of Czech paratroopers. Named governor of the Nazi-occupied Czech lands by Hitler, Heydrich was the highest-ranking Nazi officer to be assassinated during the war. And the Czechs paid a huge price in the form of brutal retaliation at the hands of the Nazi regime. This book contains a gripping tale of the events.

In 2016, a movie telling the story of the Heydrich assassination was made. The name of the film is "Anthropoid," the code name of the secret operation. Like "Amadeus," it was filmed in Prague and is a fairly accurate account of the plot.

8. HHhH: A Novel

HHhH by Laurent Binet is an historical fiction account of the assassination of Heydrich. The letters stand for "Himmlers Hirn heisst Heydrich," or "Himmler's brain is called Heydrich." Binet's novel won the prestigious Prix Goncourt du Premier Roman and is an international bestseller. It was also listed as one of the New York Times' Notable Books of 2012.

9. Havel: A Life

Vaclav Havel's rise from playwright to dissident to president of former Czechoslovakia and later the Czech Republic is one of the most fascinating and momentous of the 20th century. In this account, Havel's long-time friend, advisor and press secretary, Michael Zantovsky, tells the extraordinary tale.

10. Prague Travel Tips: An American's Guide to Her Adopted City

And, of course, I would be remiss if I did not mention my own books! That's right, in addition to these titles, I think you'll find my Prague guidebooks extremely useful for your trip to Prague. And you'll learn a little of the city's and the Czech Republic's history, as well - especially in my Prague walks series. So add them to your holiday shopping list, too! They are sold on this website, on Amazon, and on my Prague Guidebooks website. All are available in both paperback and Kindle versions. The Kindle versions will work on your phone or tablet, too!

Happy Shopping, Happy Reading & Happy Holidays!

Of course, there are many more titles I could recommend, and in fact I do so on this site here and here. But the ones recommended above inject some new works into the mix and are a great start!

If you're headed to Prague, drop me a line to inquire about my private tours or sign up for my newsletter!

]]><![CDATA[Prague Walks - My newest Prague Guidebook]]>Fri, 04 Nov 2022 10:22:27 GMThttps://www.exclusivepraguetours.com/prague-blog/prague-walks-my-newest-prague-guidebook

A Fun Companion for Your Visit to Prague.

As a rule, I find it difficult to toot my own horn, but, I must say that I think think my latest Prague Guidebook is really good myself! But mainly I think you’ll find it incredibly fun and useful for when you visit Prague.

My latest book debuted at #1 in travel releases on Amazon!

Some of you might already know that several years ago I published a series of self-guided walks to each of the main historical areas of Prague: Old Town, the Lesser Quarter, the Jewish Quarter and Prague Castle.

Included in each is a customized map of the particular walk, photos of most of the sites, and text in which I guide you through each area to each site, providing historic, cultural and architectural details and context. They’re “the next best thing” to having me with you on a personal guided tour. They’re perfect for those who like to venture into a new city on their own or who want to save money for things other than a private tour with me.

Four books in one

Well, my latest guidebook, called Prague Walks: Old Town, the Lesser Quarter, the Jewish Quarter and Prague Castle, combines all four previously published volumes in my self-guided walks series into one handy book. But it is not simply a combination of the previously-published guides – I did more research and added more information and anecdotes that I think greatly enhance both your reading pleasure and your experience of Prague.

More Photos, Enhanced Maps, and Insider's Tips and Notes for the Traveler

You can choose which walk(s) you want to do, in which order (though in the book I do make a few recommendations on that front), and you can do all of them or just a couple. In any case, you can set your own pace. In the new book I added more photos and improved the maps, and I also added special “Tip” and “Note” boxes into the text for easy reference and interesting anecdotes and definitions.

Enhance Your Stay in Prague!

In short, I think this book will greatly enhance your experience of Prague, and I think you’ll enjoy it a lot, too! And it’s perfect for the traveler on your holiday or birthday list!

Be sure to check out my other Prague guidebooks as well, and if you're headed to Prague, contact me for tours and trip planning.

]]><![CDATA[Prague Day Trips - Pilsen]]>Thu, 18 Aug 2022 09:06:17 GMThttps://www.exclusivepraguetours.com/prague-blog/prague-day-trips-pilsen

A detail of one of the Loos Interiors in Pilsen

As you will know from my blog posts during the pandemic, I took advantage of the free time I had due to the lack of tourists – and therefore a lack of tours – to travel during both summers (2020 and 2021), the only time most restrictions were lifted. But because of the various restrictions that were still in place during the summers, I was for the most part limited to travel in within the Czech Republic. And it was wonderful! I not only revisited some favorite places that I had not been to in years (such as Český Krumlov), I also made it a point to visit some towns and sites that, despite having lived here for several decades, I had never seen (like Žďár nad Sázavou). And I became fascinated again, and in a different way, with the amazing lands that are the Czech Republic. With its bucolic countryside, royal towns and castles, the Czech Republic has something for everyone. There’s even a wine country in this nation of beer lovers!

I also got bitten by the travel bug, so now that tourism has returned in a big way this year (though still not quite to pre-pandemic levels) along with my tours, this summer I have tried to squeeze in a trip or two whenever I have a few days free. And although at times we’ve been hit by the heatwave that has affected Europe this summer, we’ve also had some glorious weather that is more typical of summers here: Sunny with clear skies (or sometimes with only a few puffy white clouds floating in a blue sky, like a Baroque painting) and around 75 degrees Fahrenheit with low humidity for a high. In other words, it was perfect weather for traveling and sightseeing.

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Pilsen - the Birthplace of Pilsner Beers

And you might be surprised to learn that one of the most interesting places I visited this summer is the city of Pilsen (Plzeň) – yes, as in pilsner beers, and the most famous Czech brand: Pilsner Urquell. To be sure, I had visited Pilsen many times before – or, rather, I had visited the famous brewery – many times before. Back in my finance days, Pilsner Urquell (Plzeňský Prazdroj), was one of my clients, so I was there often when working on that project. But my colleague and I would drive to meetings from Prague and then head straight back to Prague afterwards. And because the brewery was on the edge of town on the Prague side of Pilsen, we didn’t drive into or through the city. So my trip this summer was the first time I actually visited the city (with the exception of being driven to a few pubs to taste beer during the aforementioned financing project).

I had always thought of Pilsen as an industrial city – producing lots of great beer and things like locomotives – and perhaps it is. But the city I visited this summer had a lot more to offer than just its business, which was a pleasant surprise. The impetus for the trip came when a friend and I were looking for a destination not too far from Prague that we could reach by train and be back the same day. Her husband was going to be out of town on a weekend business trip, so we decided to take a trip of our own. Pilsen fit the logistical requirements, and we both had always wanted to visit Pilsen’s Great Synagogue but had never managed to do it.

The Great Synagogue and more

But seeing as we wanted to make a day of it, we needed other things to see in addition to the synagogue. A brewery tour was not top of mind (I practically lived at the brewery in 1994-1995), but I remembered reading about the Loos Interiors when I took one of my “pandemic trips” to see some of the works of master architect Jan Santini that are located at various points in the countryside west of Pilsen.

On that trip in 2020, another friend and I rented a car when we arrived at the Pilsen train station and immediately headed directly to our accommodation just outside/west of the city and closer to our various Santini destinations. We had thought we might drive to Pilsen one day during our holiday and perhaps tour the Loos Interiors, and on the way to our pension we passed the Great Synangogue and commented that we would like to see it, too. So a day trip to Pilsen was on our wish list, but in the end Santini took up all of our time (and was well worth it!).

The Great Synagogue in Pilsen

So, between the synagogue and the Loos Interiors, Pilsen indeed had much to offer for a summer day trip (as I’ve discovered that most Czech towns do – the history is so rich here). And yet another thing I’ve discovered is the fact that most Czech towns have gotten a lot more sophisticated when it comes to eating and drinking than when I first moved here. These days most places of any reasonable size - say a population of 20,000 or more - are filled with good restaurants, trendy cafés and cool wine bars. And not only are the places attractive with a good atmosphere, but unlike only a few years ago, the coffee is quite good, too, as is the food. Artisan gelato abounds, and the wine in this beer lover’s paradise has also improved (and you’ll find more imported wines, as well).

And thanks to financial and other support from the Czech government, the EU and UNESCO, the towns have been spiffed up as well, with lots of tourist info and tours, etc., usually available. A little bit of research and asking around before the trip led us to all of the Jewish sites (in addition to the Great Synagogue), tours of the Loos Interiors, St. Bartholomew’s Cathedral and a great lunch. Stumbling into a hotel to buy a tram ticket to get back to the train station at the end of the day led us to a very retro interior and a rooftop bar where we sipped delicious coffee while taking in stunning views of St. Bartholomew’s spire (the tallest in the Czech Republic at 336 feet), the synagogue towers with the sun setting on their pink façades in the other direction, and the old part of the city. The weather was perfect, too, so, in short, it was a perfect day trip.

Pilsen’s Jewish Heritage

We began at the Great Synagogue. Having recently reopened following a reconstruction, it was the perfect time to see this iconic structure. To be sure, that time I remember having driven past it on one of my business trips in connection with the brewery, it was also striking. Now it is simply stunning.

Built between 1891 and 1893 in the Moorish-Romanesque style, it is the third-largest synagogue in Europe (the fifth-largest in the world). Over the years, Pilsen has been home to five synagogues serving a Jewish population that has been in the city since the 14th century, but now only the Great and Old Synagogues remain. And tragically, very few Jews live in Pilsen currently – almost the entire population of Pilsen’s Jewish community was wiped out during the Holocaust: Of the 2,605 Pilsen Jews transported to the Terezin concentration camp north of Prague, only 204 survived.

Learn more about Jewish history in the Czech Republic and Prague in my self-guided walk to Prague's Jewish Quarter.

During World War II, the Great Synagogue was used to store the furniture of the city’s deported Jews. It survived the war mainly due to the fact that it was located between two other buildings, but bullet holes can still be seen in the Ten Commandments on the structure’s façade from the battles to liberate Pilsen.

The Old Synagogue

Not far from the Great Synagogue is the Old Synagogue, located in the courtyard of one of the buildings lining a leafy park called Smetanovy Sady. It’s the oldest existing synagogue in Pilsen, having been built in the Neo-Romanesque style between 1857 and 1859. The Old Synagogue lost much of its importance when the Great Synagogue was built in response to the dramatic growth in the Jewish population of Pilsen that occured in the second half of the 19th century.

A complete reconstruction of the Old Synagogue took place from 2010 to 2014, and now it is part of a complex of Jewish sites, including a sukkah and the Auxiliary Synagogue. The Auxiliary Synagogue was built in 1875 and was used as a Jewish school until 1892.

Courtyard where the Old Synagogue in Pilsen is located

Holocaust memorial at the Old Synagogue in Pilsen

After visiting the both synagogues, it was time for a leisurely lunch under one of the trees in the aforementioned leafy park. One of the restaurants a friend had recommended when I did my “research” was found to be located almost directly across from the Old Synagogue on the opposite side of the park. Did I mention that this trip was incredibly convenient?

Smetanovy Sady in Pilsen

A Surprise Awaits…

After lunch, we headed to the Loos tour. According to the map, we had to walk back in the direction of the Great Synagogue and then turn north when we reached its street and walk three or four blocks. What I didn’t expect to see was one of the city’s most famous sites – and one that I had completely forgotten about when planning our trip. And it stopped us in our tracks – not because of its size or beauty: in fact, we almost walked right past it (though to be fair, it was on the opposite side of a very wide thoroughfare) – but because of its impact. It was the “Thank You, America!” memorial commemorating the liberation of Pilsen at the hands of the American army in World War II.

"Thank You, America!" Memorial in Pilsen

As we had a scheduled tour of the Loos Interiors, we first made sure we found the meeting point, and, as we were a bit early, we went back the few steps and crossed the street to see the memorial. Two granite columns flank a plaque in the ground with a map of Europe showing the advance of the U.S. Army from the west into Pilsen, which is located in the western part of the Czech Republic, not far from the German border. Engraved on one column is the Great Seal of the United States of America along with the words, “Thank you, America!” On the other is the Czech lion engraved with the same words in Czech: “Diky Ameriko!”

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Next to each column is a flagpole – one with an American flag and one with a Czech flag. Standing atop a wide boulevard called Americká (America Street) which slopes slightly down a hill behind it, it’s hard to express how looking at that monument and reading those words made me feel. I definitely felt a sense of pride in my country and its army and ideals. And for your planning purposes, every year on V-E Day, May 8, there is a big celebration in Pilsen to commemorate the liberation of the city from the Nazis at the hands of the Americans. It’s a big event, with a Convoy of Liberty comprising some 260 historic American military cars passing through the city. And I am sure it’s very moving, too, just like the memorial.

The American Flag at the "Thank You, America!" Memorial in Pilsen.

Plaque at the "Thank You, America!" Memorial in Pilsen.

Commemoration to the men of the Sixteenth Armored Division

Next we moved on to our tour of the Loos Interiors….

Born in 1870 into an Austrian family in the city of Brno in present-day Czech Republic, Adolf Loos is considered one of the world’s renowned architects and is credited as being a founder of modern architecture. He designed the famous Muller Villa in Prague, which is another site you can visit, but in Pilsen he designed the interiors of 13 apartments in already-existing buildings for a number of well-to-do families, most of whom lived near each other. (Only the city of Vienna has more Adolf Loos works.) And as all of these families also happened to be Jewish, the tours of the apartments offer an interesting look at the lives of Pilsen’s Jewish community at the time, as well as the historical events of World War II and the communist period that followed.

Created in the early 1930’s, the Loos Interiors include eight of the original 13 apartment interiors which can be visited (another is under reconstruction now and should be added to the eight soon). The “Visit Pilsen” website describes Loos’ work thus:

“The apartments by Loos were quite modern and before their time. It’s safe to say that Loos was a step ahead of the rest with is designs. Typical qualities of his work include the use of high-quality, natural materials and a heavy emphasis on thoroughly thought-out functions and well organized interior spaces. Proof of these qualities can be seen in the precisely furnished, built-in cupboards or other atypical features, which were meant to ease the lives of the apartments’ inhabitants.”

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The seemingly simple interiors are revealed to be quite complex upon closer inspection, with their precise and efficient use of space. And they are rendered stunning by the materials used, such as a living room with a dark mahogany ceiling and Swiss Cipollino marble walls, a dining room with built-in furniture and travertine tiling, and other features like amazing wall paper and red-painted wooden plank flooring.

Dining room in one of the Loos Interiors

Living room in one of the Loos Interiors

Dining room in another of the Loos Interiors

Built-in bookshelves in one of the Loos Interiors

We toured only two of the eight apartments. Seeing the remaining six only gives me a reason to return to Pilsen! After the tours we headed to the city’s historic center in search of more sites and afternoon coffee. Passing back past our lunch spot and through the park, we took some side streets which were bustling with outdoor restaurants and cafes to reach the main square: Republic Square (Náměstí Republiky).

Side street in Pilsen with the Great Synagogue in the distance

St. Bartholomew’s Cathedral

As mentioned earlier, St. Bartholomew’s has the tallest spire in the Czech Republic, so naturally it dominates Republic Square. And as an aside: when the city of Pilsen was founded, this square was also one of Europe’s biggest. Construction of this Gothic church started in the very early 14th century, probably in 1307, and was completed in the beginning of the 16th century.

The church’s interior is stunning, too: The famous argillite statue known as the Pilsen Madonna is situated on the altar. The vaulting in the presbytery and nave is spectacular.

Detail of the vaulting in St. Bartholomew's Cathedral in Pilsen

Interior of St. Bartholomew's Cathedral in Pilsen

Another gem located on the square is the city’s Renaissance town hall, built in the 1550s by an Italian architect and decorated in sgraffito. In front of city hall stands a 17th-century Baroque plague column and in and next to it is the Imperial House. At the time of the Plague, it was the seat of Emperor Rudolf II who moved there from Prague to escape the disease. Rudolf was the Austrian Emperor who moved the seat of the Empire from Vienna to Prague during his reign.

The Renaissance town hall and plague column in Pilsen

Rooftop Views

With sites closing and our train departure approaching, we decided it was time for coffee, but first we needed to get tram tickets to make our way back to the train station. The tourist office had just closed, so we popped into the lobby of a hotel on the square to see if they had any tickets to sell us. While waiting in line at the reception, we noticed a sign in the lobby pointing to a rooftop terrace with a bar/café. With that, along with the beautiful weather and the scent of good coffee wafting down the elevator shaft, we were sold – time for one last stop on an amazing day before returning to Prague.

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We bought our tickets and headed up the elevator to the roof. It did not disappoint. As the sun began to sink in the sky (though sunset would be long after we returned to Prague, such are the long summer days here), we sipped cappuccino with golden light bathing the buildings we had just seen – St. Bartholomew’s tower and the turrets of the Great Synagogue in the west. It was the perfect end to a magical trip. After coffee, we headed for the tram and were at the train station in minutes. The ride to Prague, passing by the fairytale-like Karlstejn Castle and the bike paths and hills along the Berounka River, wasn’t bad either!

View of Pilsen's Namesti Republiky from a hotel rooftop

The Great Synagogue is visible in the distance from a rooftop terrace in Pilsen

View of St. Bartholemew's Cathedral in Pilsen from a hotel rooftop

Contact Me

If you'd like more information on Pilsen, Prague or other day trips in the Czech Republic, please contact me. And, yes, a brewery tour is worth a trip, too, if you've never done that! And you can learn more about Prague and pilsner (and other) beer in my Prague guidebooks!

]]><![CDATA[Czech Beer - The REAL Czech National Treasure]]>Wed, 20 Jul 2022 07:00:00 GMThttps://www.exclusivepraguetours.com/prague-blog/czech-beer-the-real-czech-national-treasure

If you know anything about beer – or even if you’re just someone who likes beer – you probably know that Czech beer is simply wonderful. In fact, many rate Czech beer as the best beer in the world. And if you’re planning to visit Prague, you’ve probably read about how good Czech beer is. The Charles Bridge? The Astronomical Clock? Prague Castle? No, beer is the REAL Czech national treasure!

In any case, if you’re a beer drinker, I would venture to say that you’ll love Czech beer. And many of my tour clients who are not beer drinkers at all want to at least try it when they visit, and even those non-beer drinkers say it’s “very good.” In this post, I’m going to tell you a few things about Czech beer and some of the best places to enjoy it when you’re in town.

First of all, not only is it delicious, but for the taste and quality, beer in the Czech Republic is incredibly cheap. You might be surprised to find that beer is often the cheapest drink on the menu in most restaurants – cheaper than a Coke, juice or a bottle of mineral water.

Well, actually, it might now be the second-cheapest drink on your menu, as the Ministry of Health passed an ordinance a couple of years back requiring restaurants to have at least one drink on their menus priced more cheaply than beer. This was to encourage Czechs to – at least sometimes – have something else to drink.

This Mr. Beer Complete Beer Making 2 Gallon Starter Kit
is sold on Amazon.com and is an affiliate link which helps support this site.

World-famous Pilsner Urquell Beer - Picture courtesy of Pixabay

It’s not just for Breakfast Anymore

That’s because the Czechs consume more beer per capita than any nation on earth – and when you work out the statistics, it comes out to a staggering number of beers per day for every man, woman and child in the country! If you then factor out: people who don’t drink beer (there are a few of those here), people who don’t drink alcohol at all, children (who, presumably consume no beer), the number is downright shocking. Some people even have a bit with breakfast – you definitely see construction workers having one on their morning breaks.

In fact, in the 1990s, the famous Pilsner Urquell (Plzeňský Prazdroj) brewery created and marketed a “pivo pro pracujici,” or a “beer for workers.” It was not a nonalcoholic beer but rather a beer with a very low alcohol content. It never took off - I suppose the workers prefer the real deal. And the artisan glass blowers at the Moser crystal factory consume a special nonalcoholic beer during their working hours spent next to hot glass-melting fires.

Pilsner Urquell – the King of Czech Beers

Speaking of Pilsner… the pilsner type of beer originated in the Czech Republic, in the town of – you guessed it – Pilsen (Plzen). In fact, technically speaking, only beers made in the town of Pilsen are supposed to be called pilsners. Obviously, that horse left the barn a long time ago, and no one is going to try to rein it back in, but in any case, not only is the method of brewing a pilsner unique, but apparently so is the Pilsen water used to brew it. (Another ingredient that makes Czech beer so good are Czech hops.)

Pilsner Urquell is considered the king of Czech beers, and most Czechs prefer it to others. It is ubiquitous in Prague and throughout the Czech Republic, but you can also take a trip to Pilsen to tour the factory and enjoy a glass of the unfiltered, unpasteurized stuff straight out of the old barrels in the brewery’s cellar. If you need more, you can have a very fresh mug of the stuff at the brewery restaurant, Na Spilce. In Prague, one of the best places to try Pilsner Urquell is Lokal, which serves “tank” beer that is no older than two weeks and is unpasteurized. The price is right, too.

Budweiser – Not the King of American Beers?

Budweiser might be the king of American beers, except for the fact that it’s not American. That’s right, Budweiser beer originated in the Czech Republic in the town of – you guessed it again – Budweis (or České Budějovice in Czech). Actually, the two beers are not the same – not the same company or brew – the Czech Bud (“Budvar”) existed first (and Budvar is considered one of the top Czech beers, like Pilsner Urquell, though their tastes are very different. Budvar is a bit sweeter, while Urquell is more bitter). When the founders of American Budweiser started their brew, they appropriated the name – and have been in trademark disputes with Budějovický Budvar ever since.

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For that reason, Czech Budweiser, or Budvar, is not ubiquitous: The company is still state-owned, as the Czechs don’t want the American company to buy it. Being a state-owned company, they don’t have the same financial resources as Pilsner Urquell and other Czech privately-owned brands, so they don’t have as much money for distribution and advertising, either.

So, you’ll be hard-pressed to come by a Bud in Prague, though a few places do serve it, such as U Medvídků. But if you take a trip to Southern Bohemia, you’ll start to see more Budweiser signs affixed to restaurant and pub façades as you approach České Budějovice. You also won’t find it in the U.S. – at least not under its Czech name. Look for Czechvar instead.

What About the Microbrew Trend?

And lest you think the microbrew trend somehow skipped the Czech Republic with its well-established large breweries that make some of the finest beer in the world, let’s set the record straight. Microbrews have hit the Czech beer market in a big way – but with a twist. As I write in my Prague Restaurant Guide, many Czechs consider some of the microbrews to be better than the big traditional brands, and some eschew the big brands altogether.

Here’s the twist: When the big Czech brands began to be bought up by large international beverage companies like Anheuser-Busch InBev/Asahi Breweries in the case of Pilsner Urquell and Molson Coors in the case of Staropramen, the new owners set about standardizing the production processes of the old breweries. Meanwhile, many smaller local breweries which were kept in operation by the communist command economy began to struggle or shut down completely. Some noticed an ever so slight decrease in quality – or at least a very slight change in taste – in some of the larger brewers' brands. In a revolt, some of the brew masters in the older breweries jumped ship and restarted production anew in the smaller local breweries, bringing with them the old traditional brewing methods that used to be the norm at the likes of Pilsner Urquell.

So, these were experienced people who knew what they were doing and who had a mission to preserve the old brewing methods and the wonderful resulting tastes. But when they revived the old breweries, they also experimented with new beer brands and types, mainly the unfiltered – and sometimes unpasteurized – variety. Later, Czech ales (ejl) appeared on the scene. Because these breweries were small and just getting (re)started, their products were hard to find in Prague initially. But many locals quickly picked out their favorites and would travel across Prague to the one pub that served, say, Poličské, or to the shop in the suburbs that sold Matuška.

Now the microbrews have proliferated, and you’ll sometimes find bottles of them in grocery stores, and many Prague restaurants serve them on tap now, too. And some pubs that are all about beer will have ten to 20 of them on tap on any given day and rotate the brands regularly.

Prague's Original Microbrew?

I have to say, some of the microbrew brands are fabulous. Two of my favorites are Poličské and Uhříněves. Many microbrews are made in Prague, such as those brewed by Vinohradský Pivovar.

And I would be remiss if I did not mention U Fleků. It’s a microbrew of sorts that has been brewed in Prague since only a few years after Christopher Columbus set sail! And it’s still in the same spot! While the restaurant and beer garden are totally touristy now, it’s still worth a visit to try their dark and light lagers.

Czech Starobrno beer

I hope you've enjoyed this brief introduction to the world of Czech beer. Next I hope you'll come to Prague to try it! If so, contact me to help you plan your Czech beer adventure!

Contact me for tours & travel tips

]]><![CDATA[Prague spring]]>Sat, 21 May 2022 13:04:28 GMThttps://www.exclusivepraguetours.com/prague-blog/prague-spring

Prague's Vrtba Garden

Spring is here and you should be, too!

There is nothing quite like a Prague spring. Just the phrase, “Prague spring” has many connotations and meanings. There is the famous “Prague Spring International Music Festival” that takes place every year beginning on May 12 and lasting into June. World-renowned musicians and orchestras – including the Czech Philharmonic, of course, as well as others from around the world – perform in this annual ritual, and concert-goers from all over the world flock to it for a musical holiday.

And, of course, there is the famous “Prague Spring” of the 1960s that sought to bring reforms and freedoms to communist rule that abruptly turned to winter when Russian and other Warsaw Pact tanks rolled onto Prague’s Wenceslas Square – and stayed for 20 years.

But this post is about “Prague spring” the season. And if you have ever experienced it, you know that spring is the most glorious time in Prague. The weather is usually picture-perfect, what many of my clients describe as “San Diego weather” – warm but not hot temperatures during the day, clear blue skies and low humidity, with cool temperatures at night, such that you need a sweater or light jacket outdoors whereas you were probably in shorts during the day.

A Cacophony of Colors

And the other wonderful thing is the flowers and foliage. Prague is filled with flowers – in people’s gardens, in window boxes, along the streets and in city parks. And once they start blooming, you will experience a cacophony of colors and scents, starting around the last week in March and going through the end of June or later.

First comes the bright yellow of forsythia – sometimes, but not always, coinciding with Easter. Its bright yellow matches the return of the sun after the spring equinox and is a perfect metaphor for the season of rebirth. It is followed by the pink magnolias and then fruit trees – usually the apple trees bloom first, followed by apricot, plum and finally cherry, many of which are planted along certain Prague streets and lining the pathways in many parks.

Cherry tress on a promenade in Mala Strana (the Lesser Quarter)

The views in Prague suddenly start to change, too, as the gray and brown branches of winter suddenly light up with bright “spring green,” and unlike Georgia where I grew up, the green remains more “spring like” throughout the summer (unless we get a heatwave combined with drought, which sometimes happens these days).

After the cherry trees, my favorites appear: the lilacs! They are everywhere! The gardens of most homes you pass on streets in the suburbs are filled with them, and just about all parks are, too. It’s a delight to walk through the parks and take in the scent. And a tram ride through Prague with open windows (if you’re lucky enough to be on one of the “old” trams from the early 1960s), is a special treat, as the scent of the lilacs comes wafting through the tram.

Lilacs in Riegrovy Sady, a beautiful park in Prague's Vinohrady neighborhood

And of course there tulips everywhere, especially in the city’s parks and other public spaces. And if you’d really like to brighten your Prague holiday, you can visit one of the city’s many formal or botanical gardens where you’ll find rhododendron and more!

Rhododendron in a Prague botanical garden

Tulips surrounding a park fountain in Prague's Vinohrady neighborhood

In summary, I highly recommend a trip to Prague in the spring, so that you can create your own version of “Prague Spring.” And if you’d like more information on Prague’s garden or if you’re interested in tickets to the Prague Spring musical festival this year or next, don’t hesitate to contact me!

Happy spring!

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]]><![CDATA[Czech Food]]>Tue, 22 Feb 2022 10:46:14 GMThttps://www.exclusivepraguetours.com/prague-blog/czech-food

Now that COVID-19 related entry restrictions for travelers to the Czech Republic have been suspended, I hope you’ve put Prague on your list of travel destinations for this year. And while you’re here, you will definitely want to try Czech food.

Comfort Food

I would say that the best way to describe Czech food is comfort food. And while many consider it “heavy” in relation to the way many of us eat now, I prefer to think of it as what your mom or grandmother made for a big Sunday dinner way back when. Many of my tour clients describe Czech food as being similar to German food, but in reality it has more in common with Austrian food (though German and Austrian are quite similar, yet different). And don’t worry – there are lots of types of cuisine other than Czech now available in Prague if you get tired of meat and potatoes, but in this post we’ll stick to Czech cuisine.

High on the Hog

Most classic Czech dishes are meat-based, with pork taking the top spot. In fact, the Czechs eat more pork per person than any nation on earth. They also drink more beer per capita than anyone else, and the two go well together. "Vepro-knedlo-zelo" (roasted pork, dumplings and cabbage) is a staple on most pub lunch menus. But second to pork is probably duck – roasted duck, cabbage and dumplings is a classic Czech dish. The dumplings served with duck might be either bread dumplings or potato dumplings or a mix of the two. The cabbage served with it might be white or red, with red being the most common. And sometimes you get a serving of both if you’re in a place that caters to hearty eaters.

Beef takes a Back Seat

Beef, on the other hand, isn’t quite as common, but Czech goulash (which is quite different from the Hungarian variety), is very common, as is “svíčková,” often described as roast beef in cream sauce or beef stroganoff on restaurant menus, but it is neither by a long shot. “Svíčková” actually refers to a cut of beef, also – usually filet mignon or sirloin. But the dish that shares the name with the cut is a marinated and then roasted piece of beef served in a root vegetable cream sauce with whipped cream, lemon, cranberries and bread dumplings. It’s a special meal. Unfortunately, though, most pubs and restaurants will prepare it with a lesser cut of meat and an overly-sweet sauce. A pricier, fine-dining establishment will probably prepare it with sirloin if they happen to serve this dish.

Dumplings Rule

When it comes to dumplings, they are a Czech staple, and as such, I dedicated an entire chapter to them in my Prague Restaurant Guide. As a general rule, bread dumplings are served with beef, whereas either bread or potato dumplings (or both) are served with pork, poultry and rabbit (potato is slightly more common with these dishes). Potato dumplings are (almost) never served with beef (I have to add “almost” because I have found one place that serves potato dumplings with goulash – a sacrilege to most Czechs). But this place serves a lot of tourists, so maybe that’s why.

There are many kinds of dumplings in addition to bread and potato. There are bacon dumplings (špekové knedlíky), “Karlovy Vary” dumplings and fruit dumplings (“ovocné knedlíky”) - pictured in the top banner of this blog post. Stuffed with seasonal fruit and sprinkled with Danish cheese, sugar and melted butter, fruit dumplings are actually a sweet dish that is served as a meal – think pancakes or waffles with maple syrup at brunch. Strawberries and apricots are the most common fruits found in fruit dumplings, and when they’re in season, the dumplings made with them are just delicious.

Also, potato dumplings should not be confused with what are translated into English as potato pancakes, pictured below. But, no, they ("bramborák") are not served with apple sauce as is traditional in the U.S. and elsewhere. Rather they are garlicky and are served with sour cream or on their own. And they are delicious!

Don't Eat Your Vegetables

If you like a lot of vegetables or salad or other greens with your meal, you will be a bit out of luck when it comes to traditional Czech food. Other than cabbage, almost no other vegetables make an appearance except for a sprig of parsley on the side of your plate and maybe a slice of cucumber. And not even every meal comes with cabbage – usually only duck or pork do. Svickova and goulash are not served with any vegetables at all, and ordering a vegetable – or anything other than a potato or a potato dish other than dumplings – is not common in traditional Czech cuisine. But some nicer restaurants now serve sides of cabbage (or even sautéed spinach!). But in a typical Czech pub, ordering a vegetable side is almost frowned upon (and is usually not offered).

Soups and Broths - Common Starters

The most common appetizer to go with a traditional meal is soup – usually a chicken or beef broth with noodles. Liver dumpling soup is also quite common. There are other appetizers, too, but soup is the most traditional. Some soups, such as a creamy cabbage soup (“zelňačka”) and goulash soup, are heavier. Other appetizers might include various sausages, but in homes, soup is served before the main meal of the day, which is lunch.

Czech Beer

As you might have heard, Czech beer is famous, and famously good. This is a nation of beer drinkers and beer experts and brewers, and no Czech meal would be complete without a delicious Pilsner to wash it down. There are many famous Czech beer brands, large and small, but that's a subject for another post, as are Czech desserts!

My Prague Restaurant Guide

I hope you've enjoyed this brief introduction to Czech food, and I hope you enjoy some delicious meals when you're in Prague. If you'd like to know more about both Czech cuisine and where to eat in Prague, check out my Prague Restaurant Guide. It's available on Amazon and on this website in both paperback and Kindle versions (the Kindle versions will work on your smartphone or tablet - you don't need a Kindle in order to enjoy it). And if you'd like to try your hand at cooking some Czech dishes at home, below are a couple of cookbooks I recommend.

Contact the author for Prague tours and restaurant recommendations and bookings!

]]><![CDATA[Will Travel Return in 2022?]]>Wed, 02 Feb 2022 16:06:44 GMThttps://www.exclusivepraguetours.com/prague-blog/will-travel-return-in-2022

Will 2022 be the year that travel returns? In many respects, it’s looking that way. And for obvious reasons, I certainly hope so. Needless to say, I’m hoping for the revival of my Prague tour business, but I’m also looking forward to being able to travel freely internationally again myself!

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Of course, travel between Europe and America is possible now and has been for some time, and I did have a few tour clients in 2021, which was great. But there have been and still are many restrictions on travel, be they Covid test requirements or multitudes of forms to fill out, not just for your destination, but for transit countries as well.

Hopefully Travel requirements will become more uniform over time - and soon!

Some people take the process in stride, but for others the stress is greater than any desire to travel. I was amazed last year to see lots of tourists, including many Americans, in Prague’s Old Town Square last summer whenever I was in the area. Of course, the numbers of tourists were nowhere near the usual, but I must say that I admire those that took on the challenge!

At the same time, I understand those who would rather wait until things settle down more, especially after having taken my first international trip since the pandemic began this past Christmas to see my family in the U.S. But hopefully travel requirements will soon become more uniform across countries and across airlines (and hopefully they will be fewer in number as well). And of course, we all hope the spread of the virus will slow and begin to decrease!

Could Omicron Spark the Return of Travel?

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There have been many predictions about the Omicron variant of the coronavirus being the variant that might end the pandemic, at least the emergency phase of it that has resulted in so many restrictions and disruptions in our daily lives, not just in travel. And while there will certainly be new variants in the future, I hope that they will each be milder and that we will soon be at the “living with” stage of this virus.

Thankfully, There are some Good Signs

You have probably heard current news reports that many European countries have recently reduced or eliminated pandemic-related restrictions. While this has become somewhat of a springtime/warmer weather ritual, only to see restrictions return when cooler weather returns, too, or when there is a spike in case numbers, this is new in that it is being done in the dead of winter. I take it as an optimistic sign, and we will see if it “sticks.” In the meantime, I’ll be monitoring things here in the Czech Republic, of course, and I’ll try to keep you updated.

Other signs are also good: I have already gotten several bookings for tours for this year, beginning in the early spring. While I had a few bookings last year, none of them were for a date so early in the year. So things are looking better than they did at this time last year. Also, Viking Cruises is ramping up their trips, which is another good sign, and many Viking clients who are doing a Prague add-on have booked with me for this year as well, as many have in the past.

Are you ready to take a Prague tour?

Are People Getting the Travel Bug?

Finally, sales of my Prague Guidebooks ticked up in the second half of last year, an indication that people are either dreaming of traveling again or are getting ready to do so soon – or both! All indications are that there’s pent-up demand for travel, especially of the international kind, and people are itching to hit the road or take to the skies. When they do, I’m sure that Prague will be a top destination once again.

If you’re ready to travel again in 2022, put Prague and the Czech Republic at the top of your list! You’ll be glad you did, and one of my private, “concierge” tours will help you make the most of your time here!

Contact me to book a tour or for more information! And please share this blog post with those you think might find it interesting using the buttons below!

]]><![CDATA[5 tips for Prague-Themed Holiday gifts]]>Mon, 22 Nov 2021 12:00:18 GMThttps://www.exclusivepraguetours.com/prague-blog/5-tips-for-prague-themed-holiday-gifts

With Thanksgiving just around the corner, it’s not too early to start thinking about Holiday shopping. And I’m sure there is a traveler on your list! But even though travel is still difficult at this time, I’ve made this year’s Prague-themed holiday gifts with both the Prague lover and armchair traveler in mind.

This blog post contains affiliate links for products sold on Amazon.com that help support my site.

1. Books

Books are always a great gift idea for any occasion, and there are many about Prague or by Czech authors to recommend. Here are just a few:

I’ll put DVDs in this category, too, although I know most of us prefer streaming over DVD purchases nowadays. But there are so many great movies made in Prague or about Prague that I have to mention a few.

Click here for more great book and DVD recommendations.

2. Prague Tour Gift Certificates

If you’ve got friends who are thinking of coming to Prague, consider giving them the gift of a private, “concierge” tour of Prague. A personal introduction is the best way to get to know a new place, and your friend will benefit from the experience and guidance of an American who has lived in Prague for more than two decades. Choose a tour of Old Town, the Jewish Quarter, the Lesser Quarter or Prague Castle. Or choose a dollar amount that you’d like to spend, and I’ll adjust the tour time to that.

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3. Prague-Themed Journals

If you’re not sure about travel now, you can plan your dream Prague vacation with a Prague-themed journal. Or if you know an aspiring writer who might be the next Franz Kafka, one of these attractive blank lined journals is a perfect gift!

4. Prague Travel Guides

Well, in this category of course I have to mention my own guidebooks first! My best-selling first book, Prague Travel Tips: An American’s Guide to Her Adopted City, has been a big help to literally thousands of tourists. The reviews speak for themselves!

And foodies headed to Prague will find the best Czech and international cuisine in my Prague Restaurant Guide. It will lead you to the best places to drink Czech beer also.

If you like to shop ‘til you drop when you travel, my Prague Shopping Guide: From Trinkets to Treasures will help you do just that!

Finally, my book of Prague Walks will help you guide yourself through Prague. In addition to the book of combined walks, you can get individual walks of each historical area of Prague, as well.

All of my guidebooks are available in both paperback and Kindle format and are updated regularly. The Kindle version will work on your smartphone or tablet.

5. Travel Gear and Accessories

We usually think about a travel converter for the different voltage in Europe as compared to the U.S., and it's necessary for some devices. However, these days most of our devices come with chargers that automatically convert the voltage for us when they're plugged in. But what you will need is a plug adapter. And with all the devices we use now, we will need more than one! But usually they are sold in individually or as a part of your converter.

I can tell you from experience that you'll need several (or you'll be very happy you have several with you when you travel), and I finally found a pack of 6! You will not go wrong in buying these for your trip. Plus, in Prague or any other European destination, you'll find only one per pack or with a converter. Take my advice and get a pack or two of these Ceptics USA to Europe Asia Plug Adapters. You'll be glad you did!

You can find more tips for travel accessories and electronics here.

Ceptics USA to Europe Plug Adapter - CE Certified

Of course, there are countless other gifts that I could recommend for someone who wants to visit Prague or who is is just interested in this beautiful city and its history. But I think this should get you started. In the meantime, I wish you Happy Shopping!

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​​Medieval Roots: Glass from the Forests

​Bohemian Crystal and Rivalry with Venice

Expansion and Innovation in the 19th Century

The 20th Century: Disruption and Continuity

Czech Glass Today

​​Notable Glassworks and Brands

A Closer Look

​The Glass Museum in Jablonec

Travel Tip: Visit Jablonec

For Visitors to Prague – Special Offers on Czech Crystal

​From Fire to Forever: The Enduring Art of Czech Glass

Get in touch!

Another Beauty That Drew Me In

​Quick Overview & History

​The Jewish Community in Stříbro

Architectural Legacy

​Must-See Highlights in Stříbro

​Eat and Drink

Stříbro or Kutná Hora?

In Summary

A Snapshot of Úterý

​A Market Town with Medieval Origins

A German-Czech Town Through Time

Rediscovery and Revival

Historic Core and Architectural Layers

Church of the Nativity of Saint John the Baptist

A Hike to Jansův mlýn Along Úterský Potok

Things to Do in Úterý

Practical Travel Tips

​​Final Thoughts

Contact Me

​​References

​Modern Tábor:

​More Than History

​Fun in the Sun

​A Short Train Ride Away

​A Lovely Walk Along the Water

​Cafes?

​Zizka Square

​Houses on Žižka Square

​A Stunning Gothic Church

​Wine and Dine

​An Old Stone Castle

​Take a Hike!

​Breathtaking Baroque

​Sweet Delights

​Wrapping Up Your Day in Tábor

Contact Me

References

A Glimpse into History

From Gothic Grandeur to Rondocubism

​​Renaissance Elegance in Brick and Plaster

​Baroque Drama

​Church of St. Bartholomew: A Gothic Masterpiece

​​Industrialization and Its Architecture

​​​Masaryk Bridge: Where Industry Meets Elegance

​​The Gymnázium: A Modern Monument to Learning

​​Unique Rondocubist Houses by Jindřich Freiwald

A Villa Quarter Emerges

Kolín Train Station: A Modern Architectural Landmark

​Jerusalem on the Elbe: Kolín’s Once Vibrant Jewish Community

Kolín Synagogue: A Testament to Resilience

​​​Life by the Elbe River

​Local Culture and Events

​​Getting There and Around

Why Kolín Now?

Contact Me

Zlín’s History

The Birth of Bata

Bata the Visionary

$8.99 or $9.00?

A True Company Town

American Style and Gentrification

A CEO Ahead of His Time

Bata’s and Legacy and Zlín

Beyond Bata

Contact Me

​Wenceslas Square (Vaclavske Namesti)

​The National Museum and the Statue of St. Wenceslas

The Lucerna

Medieval Roots: Glass from the Forests

Bohemian Crystal and Rivalry with Venice

Notable Glassworks and Brands

The Glass Museum in Jablonec

From Fire to Forever: The Enduring Art of Czech Glass

Quick Overview & History

The Jewish Community in Stříbro

Must-See Highlights in Stříbro

Eat and Drink

A Market Town with Medieval Origins

Final Thoughts

References

Modern Tábor:

More Than History

Fun in the Sun

A Short Train Ride Away

A Lovely Walk Along the Water

Cafes?

Zizka Square

Houses on Žižka Square

A Stunning Gothic Church

Wine and Dine

An Old Stone Castle

Take a Hike!

Breathtaking Baroque

Sweet Delights

Wrapping Up Your Day in Tábor

Renaissance Elegance in Brick and Plaster

Baroque Drama

Church of St. Bartholomew: A Gothic Masterpiece

Industrialization and Its Architecture

Masaryk Bridge: Where Industry Meets Elegance

The Gymnázium: A Modern Monument to Learning

Unique Rondocubist Houses by Jindřich Freiwald

Jerusalem on the Elbe: Kolín’s Once Vibrant Jewish Community

Life by the Elbe River

Local Culture and Events

Getting There and Around

Wenceslas Square (Vaclavske Namesti)

The National Museum and the Statue of St. Wenceslas

A Retro Cafe

The Art of David Cerny

A Beautiful Retro Cinema

Rondocubism

Charles Square and the New Town Town Hall

Operation Anthropoid

The Dancing House

The Petschek Palace and the Bourne Identity

Head to Prague’s Suburbs and Beat the Crowds

A High Castle

Medieval Origins and Romanesque Ruins

A Scupture Garden

The Cemetery at Vysehrad

A Walk Along the Walls

Náplavka - First, Biggest and Best?

Kubáň at Kubánské Náměstí

Heřmaňák on Řezáčovo Náměstí

Jiřího z Poděbrad Market (Jiřák)

Other Markets

Worth the Trip!

Czech Switzerland?

A Movie Set

Bratwurst and Beer, Castles and Kings

The “Balcony of Europe” And a Museum "Quarter"

TOP PICKS

Other Tram Lines

Some Liberec History

Fun and Sun

The Liberec Zoo

Ski and Hike

A World-Class Town Hall

The New Synagogue in Liberec (Nová synagoga)

Boom and Bust

What Makes Kutná Hora Unique?

Kutná Hora Went Broke, but Not Baroque

St. Barbora

St. James

Lunch Break

The Bone Church

Book Your Kutná Hora Tour