Český Krumlov – a Southern Bohemian Fairy tale

View from the castle in Český Krumlov

I mentioned in my last blog post that I’ve been using my free time -  resulting from (sadly) the lack of tourists - to travel around the Czech Republic. My first stop was Hluboka Chateau, next was the fairy tale-like town of Český Krumlov.

Český Krumlov is one of my favorite places – not just in the Czech Republic, but in the world. In fact, though it had been more than a decade since my last visit, I realized that this was my 11th visit to the town, and with the exception of one business trip, all were for pleasure. It’s a great weekend escape from Prague.

Austrian charm

Located in Southern Bohemia near the Austrian border, you’ll notice an Austrian feel in Český Krumlov (Krumlau in German). With a castle that sits atop a bluff overlooking a hairpin turn in the Vltava river, sloping medieval rooftops and a Rumpelstiltskin tower, this medieval town is dripping with charm.  And the views from the castle are simply stunning. No matter where you’re perched on it, each view offers a picture-perfect photo op – or plein air site for the artists among you.

You can take tours of the castle interiors which cover many periods of style and include the whimsically magical Masquerade Hall and the stunning gold leafed Eggenberg coach. You’ll also learn a lot about the three Austrian noble families who occupied the town and castle from the 14th to 19th centuries:  The Rosenbergs, the Eggenbergs and the Schwarzenbergs (and in no time you’ll be able to identify the unique family crests of each).

Český Krumlov castle at night

Water Rafting and More!

In addition to history, Český Krumlov is known as a fun water rafting spot around those bends in the river, and the riverbanks offer great spots for dining on grilled fresh trout or drinking a few Eggenberg beers from the local Eggenberg brewery. The brewery is located in the town – a mere 8-minute walk from the main square, Náměstí Svornosti. The brewery has a restaurant, too, featuring all the Czech specialties.
 
You’ll find lots of great Italian and other kinds of food in Český Krumlov, as well.  And there are trendy cafes everywhere these days.  Sticking with its medieval look and feel, Český Krumlov has a couple of great “krčmas,” too. Especially nice in winter, these medieval-style eateries, complete with staff dressed in medieval garb, serve meats cooked on open hearths in the middle of the space.

Given its quaintness, Český Krumlov has no shortage of art galleries, bookshops and souvenir shops.  And it also has a quite good museum dedicated to the artist Egon Schiele.  Though he was Austrian, Shiele’s mother was Czech and was born in Český Krumlov. Shiele lived in Krumlov at one time, and in fact, it was here that he began his paintings of nude adolescent girls. Once the townspeople got wind of this work, they sent him packing back to Austria. But Český Krumlov has now embraced its one-time resident.

Street scene in Český Krumlov

Though doable in a day, in my opinion Český Krumlov deserves an overnight stay.  Besides, my guess is you’ll want to spend the night once you experience the town’s charms.  It’s a 2.5-hour drive from Prague or a 3- to 3.5-hour train ride, depending on whether you get a direct train. (Note that most trains from Prague to Český Krumlov are NOT direct.)
 
The town also has numerous hotels and pensions, large and small, from rustic to moderate, to choose from.  Contact me if you have questions about visiting Český Krumlov.  I can help you under my Concierge Services.