If you’ve been following my blog, you will know that I spent much of last year exploring more of the Czech Republic than I’ve done in a while. I visited many places for the first time that had long been on my list, and I also revisited some of my favorite places, such as Cesky Krumlov.
Greetings from Prague as we move into the Holiday Season!
Another Spike in the Autumn
In Prague and throughout the Czech Republic, we had another outbreak of the Coronavirus when children returned to school (and locals returned from their summer travels elsewhere in Europe). This caused the government to again enact strict measures to contain the virus, with eventually everything closed except for grocery stores, pharmacies and medical facilities. This time around we even had a curfew imposed from 9:00 p.m. to 5:00 a.m., and unlike the first shutdown in March, ALL shops were closed on Sundays.
If you’ve been following my blog, you’ll know that this summer I spent a lot more time traveling than I usually do. As a tour guide, my summers are usually spent working – a lot – so the tourist season is normally not that for me! Sadly, due to the Coronavirus, my tour business was virtually nonexistent this year, so I decided to hit the road. But the pandemic also made travel outside of one’s country a bit difficult or impossible – so I did something I hadn’t done since I first moved to Prague: I traveled around the Czech Republic.
I mentioned in my last blog post that I’ve been using my free time - resulting from (sadly) the lack of tourists - to travel around the Czech Republic. My first stop was Hluboka Chateau, next was the fairy tale-like town of Český Krumlov.
Český Krumlov is one of my favorite places – not just in the Czech Republic, but in the world. In fact, though it had been more than a decade since my last visit, I realized that this was my 11th visit to the town, and with the exception of one business trip, all were for pleasure. It’s a great weekend escape from Prague.
Located in Southern Bohemia near the Austrian border, you’ll notice an Austrian feel in Český Krumlov (Krumlau in German). With a castle that sits atop a bluff overlooking a hairpin turn in the Vltava river, sloping medieval rooftops and a Rumpelstiltskin tower, this medieval town is dripping with charm. And the views from the castle are simply stunning. No matter where you’re perched on it, each view offers a picture-perfect photo op – or plein air site for the artists among you.
There are many places in the Czech Republic beyond Prague that are well worth a visit. And due to the Coronavirus and related travel restrictions, I don't have a lot of tour clients at the moment, unfortunately. But that means I have a lot more time on my hands in the summer than I usually do, so once we eased restrictions earlier this month, I hit the road!
In my Prague Restaurant Guide, I talk about Prague's "food revolution." I also mention several of what can be called "mini-revolutions" within the broader food revolution. One has been in the area of coffee. And a recent one has been in the area of burgers. Every corner now seems to have a "burger joint" in hot pursuit of the perfect real (American) hamburger.
These food "mini-revolutions" are happening at such a pace that I find it hard to keep up, let alone try all the new things on offer. But I have had no trouble finding time to explore the subject of Prague's latest revolution: gelato! That's because, along with the French fry, I suppose ice cream is my favorite food.
Angelato has competition... And I'm glad!
If you've followed me on Facebook or other social media, you know that I am a hugely devoted fan of Angelato, one of Prague's first gourmet gelato spots, and certainly the first to offer unusual seasonal concoctions such as poppyseed, jasmine rice and other inventive flavors.
Angelato will always have a special place in my heart, and I will always visit it several times every spring and summer. But earlier this year, Creme de la Creme appeared on the scene, and I have a new ice cream love. Its owner apparently spent years in Italy learning the traditional art of gelato-making, and if he happens to be in the shop when you visit, he will gladly explain the differences between his product and Angelato's (and why his is superior, of course).
Creme de la creme
Creme de la Creme has a lot of the same favorite flavors that Angelato has, like salty caramel (and Creme de la Creme has salty peanut, also) and many seasonal flavors, too. In my view, the consistency of Creme de la Creme's gelato is creamier than Angelato's, and the flavors are a bit more intense. And they also have a few vegan choices. Let's just say that Creme de la Creme is my new favorite (sorry Angelato!).
And then there's puro...
And there's another local gelato on the scene. Actually, Puro has been around in its first location out in the 'burbs for a few years, but this week they opened a long-awaited shop right in the middle of Old Town, near Old Town Square. It's located on Kaprova Street, and I can't wait to try it.
Prague is almost synonymous with music. Next month, the internationally-renowned Prague Spring International Music Festival will begin, with classical concerts of all kinds being performed by soloists and orchestras from across the globe. Music fans from all over the globe will also descend on Prague, as the city takes on a festive spring atmosphere.
Prague Proms is another great musical event. This year, Branford Marsalis, the famous jazz musician, will perform a classical repertoire. The Czechs love jazz, too, even though it was forced underground - both literally and figuratively - during the communist years. Today, Prague's jazz cellars still remain, but many musicians have come out into the light, too, performing regularly on the Charles Bridge and on Old Town Square.
One of the most famous films about music, "Amadeus," was filmed here in the gray communist days. And the subject of the film, the composer Mozart, spent much time in Prague. In fact, the world premier of his opera, "Don Giovanni" took place here in the Estates Theater in 1787. Originally a private theater, this intimate space served as the Vienna Opera in "Amadeus." Mozart himself conducted the house orchestra at the Estates at his "Don Giovanni" premier, and in the same year, he played the organ at St. Nicholas Church in Mala Strana.
The Czech Republic has also produced many famous composers, such as Antonin Dvorak and Bedrich Smetana. The Dvorak and Smetana museums in Prague, respectively, are worth visiting. The Czech Philharmonic Opera, currently conducted by Jiri Belohlavek, is top quality.
In addition to great composers and performers, you can still find shops around town where old masters craft violins and other instruments by hand, though these are sadly fading away.
So, if you are a music lover, you will love Prague. And even if you can't be here during one of the big music festivals, there are concerts daily at many churches, libraries and other smaller venues around town. We offer Concierge Services to help you find great concerts and buy tickets. If you're coming to Prague and want to treat your ears, contact Exclusive Prague Tours and we can surely find something special for you to enjo
Welcome to “The Prague Blog.” In its pages I’d like to introduce you to one of the most beautiful cities in the world. Though of course I might be biased, if you’ve ever visited Prague, you’ll know that my opinion is not completely without some (or a lot of) objective basis and merit. And if you’ve not yet been to Prague, I hope you’ll have the chance to visit one day and be struck by the city’s beauty, as I was the first time I visited here more than two decades ago.
Prague’s attraction doesn’t stem solely from its beauty. It has a mystery that can be felt as you wander through its winding medieval streets. And the rich history of Prague is another thing that surprises many first-time visitors. From the Old Town to the Malá Strana to the Jewish Quarter, history seems to leap from every cobblestone you tread upon.
I’m an American who has lived and worked in Prague for more than two decades. Prague’s pull on me was so strong that after my first stay for a holiday in the summer of 1990, the first summer after the Berlin Wall fell, I vowed to return – to live. And I did. It took some time and some doing, but I moved here in 1992 and never left (except for a few years in the late 1990s when I relocated to Washington, DC, during my tenure at the World Bank). I have lived, loved and experienced Prague on many levels and in its many aspects. I’ve walked her streets over and over, never tiring of seeing the same gorgeous Baroque palace multiple times or marveling at the views as I cross the 700-year-old Gothic Charles Bridge for the umpteenth time. I’ve studied Prague’s history, met her people and heard their stories and their music.
I am an American who has been living in Prague for two decades. After a long career in international finance, I left the business world to pursue other interests. I now works as a writer, mentor and guide to the city.